Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

Ok I am on 1. If the lens has image stabilization, IBIS does not show up in the menu.... on Facebook a lot of people are asking about IBIS and why they can't find it and the answer seems to be if a lens has IS the IBIS menu does not show up and with this or the Tamron on it surly does not show up! I did turn off the Digital Lens Optimizer since it was not on on my 5D. But, now I need to find the elk during the day again.

And yes, why can I do a bird but not an elk, seems to be the distance.

bleirer

If shooting raw and using DPP you are free to click it or unclick it at will within DPP no matter what is set in camera. If you have DPP set up to apply camera settings it will match your camera setting at first but you can unclick it in DPP or see which way you like it. If using lightroom or similar, it will ignore the auto lighting optimizer for raw.

Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

I mostly use LR, but to get the info and see where the focus box is, I use DPP. I have gone in and turned off the lighting optimizer.

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

Your camera is reading reflected light. All camera's do. Your best bet for a winter scene like this is to go manual exposure.
Every time you move your camera just slightly, the reflected light reading will be different, go manual.

BebuLamar

I would suggest to point both cameras at a blank wall and take shots to see what's the differences are. I am not sure but I suspect the meter calibration on one of the camera is off.

tomcat

This seems very complex to me. Are you really sure you want the R5?

bleirer

I agree, she can PM me for my shipping address to charitably take it off her hands.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

I will tell you that I never shoot off a bean bag because if it rests on the focus or zoom rings the focus/zoom can be changed with very subtle movements that you are NOT aware of ! - using the R5 may in some way exacerbate this over the 5DM4 ??
.

tomcat

Excellent point. Same with the window sill in a car. Or holding the lens ring with your fingers, like a prissy teacup.

Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

I had not thought of that. Usually the foot is on the bean bag, not the lens, but I will watch out for that. If I were to get out of the car to set up a tripod, the elk would scatter!

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Hi Beth,

First of all, two of your image uploads appear to be mis-labelled and that may have affected the previous responses.

1st image is marked "R5" (correct)
2nd image is marked "R5" (incorrect, the EXIF says 5DIV)
3rd image is marked "5DIV" (incorrect, the EXIF says R5)
4th image is marked "5DIV" (correct)

In both cases, the R5 images are underexposed, compared to the similar 5DIV images.

In both cases you have the camera set to Evaluative metering, Aperture Priority auto exposure, f/10 aperture, ISO 1000 (with Auto ISO off) and you have +1/3 stop Exposure Compensation dialed in.

In the 3rd and 4th image pair, the 5DIV set the shutter speed to 1/1000, while the R5 used 1.33 stop slower 1/2500, hence the darker image from the mirrorless camera.

First of all, it is not at all unusual for there to be some differences in how different camera models meter a scene. With several years difference in their age, these two cameras likely use different metering systems.

I did notice that both the R5 images appear to be composed to include more of the snow covered foreground, which might explain some of the difference in exposure. More bright white snow in the scene will cause a camera to want to reduce the exposure when using any of the auto exposure modes. This might have been overcome by dialing in more + Exposure Compensation.

But another part of it is just becoming accustomed to how a camera's metering system reads scenes with experience, so that you can better predict variances like these and make appropriate adjustments (usually Exposure Compensation when using any of the AE modes). I assume the R5 is new to you, while you've used the 5DIV for some time and have become accustomed to it. Maybe it's more than just the composition differences (and additional white snow, in these examples). Maybe the R5 just needs more Exposure Compensation. In time you'll learn it's behavior, as you have the 5DIV's, and be better able to deal with

Next time you shoot a test, try first establishing a "good" exposure (test shots, image playback and the histogram can be used as a guide). Then put both cameras in fully manual mode (M with no Auto ISO) with exactly the same settings. This locks everything down and should prevent exposure variances like you see here.

Difference in color rendering goes hand-in-hand with the exposure differences. Underexposure naturally makes colors darker and "muddier". Nothing surprising there.

Someone asked about what "Evaluative Metering" means in a previous response. This is Canon's advanced form of metering, similar to "Matrix" metering in some other systems. Evaluative metering does measure the light levels of the entire image area, but it puts extra emphasis on the area right around the active focus point(s). In other words, Evaluative tries to take into account both the scene as a whole as well as the subject itself (it "assumes" you're focusing upon the subject). This metering mode or "pattern" is the one I use most of the time. It works very well in most situations.

The alternatives with most Canon cameras are: Center Weighted Metering (sort of an "old school" method), Partial Metering and Spot Metering. Center Weighted is sort of an "old school" method. Many vintage cameras used this type of metering pattern and, much like Evaluative, it measures the entire scene, except that Center Weighted doesn't tie in with the active AF points. Instead it simply puts the extra emphasis on the central area. Partial measures only a limited portion of the image at the center, usually between 10 and 20% (varies by camera model). Spot metering typically reads only 1% to 5% at the very center of the image area (also varies by camera model).

Focus issues are another matter entirely. Those are largely unrelated to problems with exposure. I suspect it's another situation where you simply need to learn to use the new camera. There may be something you've set incorrectly. Or maybe it's your expectations such as that you simply aren't close enough to the subjects for the mode you've selected. You've used the 5DIV for some time and have it's AF system sorted out. But you've got a ways to go with the R5. I'd hit the manual, look for online info, Youtube videos and such, and maybe buy one or two of the guide books about the R5. Whenever I buy a new camera, I always get one of the guide books, then spend time reading that and the manual(s) supplied by the camera manufacturer. Between those, it shortens my "learning curve" with the new camera. I see the R5's manual is over 900 pages! Might need to brew up a pot of coffee and set aside an evening or two!

While you were using the Canon EF 100-400mm II lens for all the shots in this example, in your previous post about focus issues... if memory serves.... you also tried a Tamron 150-600mm G2 lens on the R5 and saw some similar focusing problems with it. I just remembered with that Tamron you should check what firmware version is installed (should show in image EXIF). If you've had the lens for a while, it may have the "Ver. 1" software, which didn't work well with the EOS R and RP when they were introduced. Tamron issued a firmware "Ver.2" update for the lens that fixed the problems. AFAIK, this update works properly with the R6 and R5, too.

If needed, Tamron lens firmware can be downloaded and updated by the user, but you'll need their Tap-In module to do so. That's sold separately (and does allow some other lens "tuning", in addition to doing firmware updates). If you're concerned about doing the update yourself or just don't want to spend the money ($59) on the module, you might be able to find a local camera repair shop that's go the module and is able to do the update for you, or you can send the lens to Tamron for the update.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

I use a short monopod with tilt/pan head in the car as a carpod - works great in my cars ! .....saves straining my windows/problems or buying expensive car bracket gadgets.
.

Photolady2014 Loc: Southwest Colorado

Amphoto1. Thank you for your wonderful thoughts. I have been so frustrated and have put way too many images on my desktop that it is not hard to believe I messed up which was from which body! Thanks for pointing it out.
Your words are actually quite kind and you may have talked me off a ledge! Your suggestions are also very correct. I do know I am not overly patient, and I have never had this level of frustration with a new body or lens!
I have sought out the help of a wildlife photographer in Yellowstone who has the R5. I went out today with his setting recommendations and I got a few usable shots, but a couple out of 100....
Funny, I can get great little fast birds, but not an elk that does not move much. It is the distant focusing I can not get to work. I even got to within 25 feet of the elk (from the car) and could not get the eye tracking to lock on. But fast birds 15 feet away, I can!
Again, thank you, I will take your thoughts to heart!
Beth