Trouble opening raw with PS from Canon 80D
Dec 7, 2020 11:20:40 #
imagemeister wrote:
Another good reason NOT to shoot raw .....
Not if you believe in the advantages of shooting RAW. I was using PS CS6 and got a new camera which wasn't supported. It was very easy to get and use the DNG converter until I finally went to the PS subscription.
Dec 7, 2020 11:27:03 #
JOHNERIKSSON wrote:
All the new cameras by Canon shoot a raw file name... (show quote)
There is still a steep learning curve to jump from Elements to Lightroom/Photoshop, not everybody wants to climb that mountain.
Dec 7, 2020 11:30:24 #
Dec 7, 2020 11:36:11 #
imagemeister wrote:
Another good reason NOT to shoot raw .....
Says the expert on raw shooting who has stated many times that he has never shot raw and has no interest in ever doing so . . .
You are so stunningly ill-informed . . .
Dec 7, 2020 11:39:48 #
Isa wrote:
I had the same problem when I got my d7500 and photoshop 6. My nef files would not open. I finally found a program that would convert them to dng files that would open in photoshop. It is called Adobe Digital Negative Converter. I don't know if this will help you, but you can give it a go.
If you use the dng converter, which is, in my opinion, a temporary solution, you should hold onto your raw files, so that when you get a software application that supports your camera, or anything else you end up getting, you'll have the original files. There are not a lot of software applications that can read dng files.
The better solution is to subscribe to PS/LR - you'll find a wealth of genuine benefits besides solving the initial problem of reading raw files from your new camera.
Dec 7, 2020 12:22:00 #
bleirer wrote:
DPP has a 'send to Photoshop' menu item, which opens as a tiff directly in Photoshop, but does it apply to Elements? I didn't think so. I think The OP would have to 'convert and save' as a tiff under the file menu, then open from within PSE. Either way I think it's worth the $80 to upgrade to modern PSE.
Absolutely correct and agree it’s worth the expense to upgrade.. In the past, DPP did a better raw conversion than ACR so worth the extra step, but I’m not sure it is still worth the extra step in the workflow - I’m going to do some comparisons.
Off subject, but I see a definite improvement in converting Fuji raw with Capture One compared to ACR.
Dec 7, 2020 13:37:51 #
bleirer wrote:
There is still a steep learning curve to jump from Elements to Lightroom/Photoshop, not everybody wants to climb that mountain.
.....or the cost, the complications ....Dec 7, 2020 13:41:54 #
Gene51 wrote:
Says the expert on raw shooting who has stated many times that he has never shot raw and has no interest in ever doing so . . .
You are so stunningly ill-informed . . .
You are so stunningly ill-informed . . .
You and all the "EXPERTS" here on UHH are my source of info .....
.
Dec 7, 2020 15:23:12 #
Dec 7, 2020 15:26:09 #
itsnoelb
Loc: Edgewater, FL. Originally: FLINT. MI.
Thanks. Another post suggested dng as a temporary fix till I upgrade PS.
Dec 7, 2020 15:30:52 #
imagemeister wrote:
You and all the "EXPERTS" here on UHH are my source of info .....
.
.
pearls before swine . . .
Dec 8, 2020 08:24:57 #
itsnoelb wrote:
Picked up a 80D. works great, like it a lot. I think the raw extension has been upgraded and my PS 11 cant open files. Opens fine with 7D V1. is this a possible?
Adobe has a FREE Dgn converter that works great. I use a stone alone CS6 so when I shoot a D5 I convert the nef (raw) to dgn and continue along my happy way. Three times I've been to Lock and Dam 14 in January and each year I converted NEF to DGN and I experienced to problems at all.
Dec 8, 2020 10:18:04 #
Dec 8, 2020 11:32:33 #
A nice side benefit of using Canon DPP is you get control of the in camera choices, like picture style, auto lighting optimizer, etc., especially digital lens optimizer (which Lightroom can't duplicate).
Dec 9, 2020 15:19:52 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
Apparently you are using Photoshop ELEMENTS 11, which is now around ten years old. The 80D is newer than that, so it's RAW files are not supported by the old software.
You have at least five possible choices:
1. Upgrade to a newer version of Elements. No doubt you would also get a lot of new functionality, along with the ability to work with RAW files from newer cameras. There is extensive info on the Adobe website about compatibility with cameras and the features that have been added to newer versions of the software. Check it out.
The newest version Photoshop Elements 2021 will cost you around $100 (unless you also shoot video and need Adobe PREMIERE Elements, too, which will cost $150 total in bundle with Photoshop Elements). NOTE: If your computer is the same age as your software or older, it too may need updating. To run newer software and work efficiently with larger image files, you may need more RAM or a graphics card or both. Really old computers with out-of-date operating systems may need that updated to, or may need to be completely replaced. (Been there, done that many years ago when I upgraded cameras... needed new software, new computer with new operating system! That was an expensive camera upgrade!)
2. Use Canon's own RAW (CR2) file processing software: Digital Photo Pro (DPP). It's FREE for download from the Canon website. While it has extensive editing capabilities and can be used by itself, another approach would be to primarily use it to convert the RAW files to TIFF files that can be handled by your current copy of Elements. HOWEVER, one of the most useful aspects of RAW and TIFF files is that they can have 16 bit color, while JPEGs are 8 bit. Color bit depth is the "palette" of colors and tonalities that the software has to work with. 8 bit files have about 17 million colors, which sounds like a lot until you consider that 16 bit files have almost 28 billion! Another way of looking at it, 8 bit has 256 tonalities per color channel, while 16 bit has 65,536! While an 8 bit file is fine or even required for online display or printing, when working on an image, editing it and making adjustments, it's better to do so with a 16 bit version. That's one of the key benefits of "shooting RAW", because it produces files with more bit depth (all Canon DSLRs since 2004 actually shoot 14 bit RAW, but it's interpolated to 16 bit by editing software). Newer versions of Elements can work with 16 bit files to some extent (and can be further improved with a software plug in called "Elements Plus" that sells for all of $12). I don't know about Elements 11 specifically, but older versions will be much more limited in what they can do with 16 bit files.
Of course you can emulate almost anything DPP can do in Elements, Lightroom or Photoshop. It may not be one-click "auto" (or automatically applied if you click "as shot"), but you can achieve the same thing as lighting optimizer with the vignette correction controls found in all three of the Adobe programs. In fact, you have a lot more control over it with any of the Adobe s'ware, than with the "auto" feature in DPP (or in your camera itself, though it's only applied when shooting JPEGs).
There also are some other FREE RAW converter/image editor programs such as Gimp and Darktable. I really don't know much about them. Maybe someone else can share their experiences with them.
3. Download and install Adobe's DNG converter and use it. It's also FREE. This will convert your CR2 files into a more universal "DNG" RAW type, which is Adobe's own file type that's more backward compatible with older versions of Adobe software such as yours. AFAIK, it will be workable in Elements 11, though you still may have limitations working with 16 bit versions in that older software, as described above.
If you go this route (and possible some of the other alternatives) and are using a Windows computer, you may find it helpful to install a "codec" that allows you to view RAW (and TIFF, and DNG, and PNG, etc.) image file previews directly in Windows. This can make it possible to select files for conversion, rather than having to convert them all before being able to view, pick and choose the ones you wish to work on and finish. What would be needed depends upon your version of Windows, but I've been using this $10 codec for many years and it works very well in many different versions of Windows and handles almost all RAW file types, among others: https://www.fastpictureviewer.com/codecs/
4. Upgrade to Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop subscription, which costs $120 a year (in comparison, if you have used Elements 11 since it was introduced it has probably cost you $5 to $10 a year to use it, if you amortize the purchase price out over its "lifetime"). While these are more powerful software than Elements, they also are a whole lot more complex and they don't have the built in "beginner" support found in Elements. Also, LR and PS are designed to complement each other. There are aspects and functionality from both of them found in Elements, which is designed more to be a single, stand-alone program (although it's "lighter" than LR and PS). LR isn't too hard to learn to use... a book or a class and about a month's practice will get most people up to speed with it. Similar to Elements, I would imagine. PS, on the other hand, is extremely complex. You can easily end up buying a stack of books and spending a year in college level classes learning to fully use it.
5. Buy, learn and use one of the other RAW conversion and image editing software programs such as Luminar, On1, Capture One, etc., etc.
Personally I'd probably just spend the relatively small amount for a copy of Elements 2021, the latest version which was introduced in October. Adobe updates Elements to a new version annually, which always entails buying a new, full version of it (though that may not be necessary for another ten years, if you don't buy any more cameras before then)... There there may be free, minor updates in between Adobe's main releases, though they're rare.
Or, if you want to give them a "test drive", unless they've changed it since I last looked, Adobe offers a 30-day free trial of Elements, Lightroom and/or Photoshop. Coming from an earlier version of Elements, you could probably jump right into using a newer version, though to get the best out of a one month trial it might be wise to buy at least one "how to" book about the new version and have that in hand before starting the trial. I'd definitely recommend doing that with an unfamiliar program like Lightroom. I wouldn't recommend most people unfamiliar with Photoshop try the 30-day trial... it's just too complex to get up to speed enough to evaluate it in only a month's time. IMO, only relatively experienced Photoshop users will get much out of the 30-day trial.
You have at least five possible choices:
1. Upgrade to a newer version of Elements. No doubt you would also get a lot of new functionality, along with the ability to work with RAW files from newer cameras. There is extensive info on the Adobe website about compatibility with cameras and the features that have been added to newer versions of the software. Check it out.
The newest version Photoshop Elements 2021 will cost you around $100 (unless you also shoot video and need Adobe PREMIERE Elements, too, which will cost $150 total in bundle with Photoshop Elements). NOTE: If your computer is the same age as your software or older, it too may need updating. To run newer software and work efficiently with larger image files, you may need more RAM or a graphics card or both. Really old computers with out-of-date operating systems may need that updated to, or may need to be completely replaced. (Been there, done that many years ago when I upgraded cameras... needed new software, new computer with new operating system! That was an expensive camera upgrade!)
2. Use Canon's own RAW (CR2) file processing software: Digital Photo Pro (DPP). It's FREE for download from the Canon website. While it has extensive editing capabilities and can be used by itself, another approach would be to primarily use it to convert the RAW files to TIFF files that can be handled by your current copy of Elements. HOWEVER, one of the most useful aspects of RAW and TIFF files is that they can have 16 bit color, while JPEGs are 8 bit. Color bit depth is the "palette" of colors and tonalities that the software has to work with. 8 bit files have about 17 million colors, which sounds like a lot until you consider that 16 bit files have almost 28 billion! Another way of looking at it, 8 bit has 256 tonalities per color channel, while 16 bit has 65,536! While an 8 bit file is fine or even required for online display or printing, when working on an image, editing it and making adjustments, it's better to do so with a 16 bit version. That's one of the key benefits of "shooting RAW", because it produces files with more bit depth (all Canon DSLRs since 2004 actually shoot 14 bit RAW, but it's interpolated to 16 bit by editing software). Newer versions of Elements can work with 16 bit files to some extent (and can be further improved with a software plug in called "Elements Plus" that sells for all of $12). I don't know about Elements 11 specifically, but older versions will be much more limited in what they can do with 16 bit files.
Of course you can emulate almost anything DPP can do in Elements, Lightroom or Photoshop. It may not be one-click "auto" (or automatically applied if you click "as shot"), but you can achieve the same thing as lighting optimizer with the vignette correction controls found in all three of the Adobe programs. In fact, you have a lot more control over it with any of the Adobe s'ware, than with the "auto" feature in DPP (or in your camera itself, though it's only applied when shooting JPEGs).
There also are some other FREE RAW converter/image editor programs such as Gimp and Darktable. I really don't know much about them. Maybe someone else can share their experiences with them.
3. Download and install Adobe's DNG converter and use it. It's also FREE. This will convert your CR2 files into a more universal "DNG" RAW type, which is Adobe's own file type that's more backward compatible with older versions of Adobe software such as yours. AFAIK, it will be workable in Elements 11, though you still may have limitations working with 16 bit versions in that older software, as described above.
If you go this route (and possible some of the other alternatives) and are using a Windows computer, you may find it helpful to install a "codec" that allows you to view RAW (and TIFF, and DNG, and PNG, etc.) image file previews directly in Windows. This can make it possible to select files for conversion, rather than having to convert them all before being able to view, pick and choose the ones you wish to work on and finish. What would be needed depends upon your version of Windows, but I've been using this $10 codec for many years and it works very well in many different versions of Windows and handles almost all RAW file types, among others: https://www.fastpictureviewer.com/codecs/
4. Upgrade to Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop subscription, which costs $120 a year (in comparison, if you have used Elements 11 since it was introduced it has probably cost you $5 to $10 a year to use it, if you amortize the purchase price out over its "lifetime"). While these are more powerful software than Elements, they also are a whole lot more complex and they don't have the built in "beginner" support found in Elements. Also, LR and PS are designed to complement each other. There are aspects and functionality from both of them found in Elements, which is designed more to be a single, stand-alone program (although it's "lighter" than LR and PS). LR isn't too hard to learn to use... a book or a class and about a month's practice will get most people up to speed with it. Similar to Elements, I would imagine. PS, on the other hand, is extremely complex. You can easily end up buying a stack of books and spending a year in college level classes learning to fully use it.
5. Buy, learn and use one of the other RAW conversion and image editing software programs such as Luminar, On1, Capture One, etc., etc.
Personally I'd probably just spend the relatively small amount for a copy of Elements 2021, the latest version which was introduced in October. Adobe updates Elements to a new version annually, which always entails buying a new, full version of it (though that may not be necessary for another ten years, if you don't buy any more cameras before then)... There there may be free, minor updates in between Adobe's main releases, though they're rare.
Or, if you want to give them a "test drive", unless they've changed it since I last looked, Adobe offers a 30-day free trial of Elements, Lightroom and/or Photoshop. Coming from an earlier version of Elements, you could probably jump right into using a newer version, though to get the best out of a one month trial it might be wise to buy at least one "how to" book about the new version and have that in hand before starting the trial. I'd definitely recommend doing that with an unfamiliar program like Lightroom. I wouldn't recommend most people unfamiliar with Photoshop try the 30-day trial... it's just too complex to get up to speed enough to evaluate it in only a month's time. IMO, only relatively experienced Photoshop users will get much out of the 30-day trial.
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