boberic wrote:
Use what jewelers have used as a lubricant for centuries. Scualene (nose oil) Ever rub the back of a finger nail on the side of your nose? It's oily. That oil, is sometimes called shark oil as one of the shark genus" is Squalus. So grease the threads with "nose oil" It works
My father taught me use nose oil on light bulbs in the 1950's. Try it, it is a safe way to evaluate how well it works.
Apply it to the outside threads on the filter without getting it on the filter. I don't recommend trying to apply it to the lens inside threads. Use both your finger and your thumb, on your nose and on the filter threads, for stability. Install the filter and then clean of any nose oil that got on the outer surface of the filter ring.
Nose oil. Isn’t that what we called ‘snot’ for ‘ dog brain’ kids in high school.
Boss wrote:
My father taught me use nose oil on light bulbs in the 1950's. Try it, it is a safe way to evaluate how well it works.
Apply it to the outside threads on the filter without getting it on the filter. I don't recommend trying to apply it to the lens inside threads. Use both your finger and your thumb, on your nose and on the filter threads, for stability. Install the filter and then clean of any nose oil that got on the outer surface of the filter ring.
I always carry a Playtex Living Glove in my camera bag to help un-screw stuck filters... It's always worked for me.
azted
Loc: Las Vegas, NV.
I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the Xume filter holders from Manfrotto. You can easily replace a UV filter with a polarizing filter as they are held in place by magnets, or remove the uv filter quickly if you don't need the protection. Great system!
John_F wrote:
Nose oil. Isn’t that what we called ‘snot’ for ‘ dog brain’ kids in high school.
Buggers in my day. But no buggers are on the inside of the nose and the oil in on the outside. Just hold your nose like you were going to blow it, but just rub your thumb and finger along the outside of your nose. It has worked for me for 65 years.
What about the bubbles? 😳
Had a filter stick recently and none of my old tricks or filter wrenches worked, so I tried the "face down" on a thinly padded flat surface. I used a 20ish page advertising magazine and bingo, it worked on the first try!! Slightly shredded the first page of the magazine, but it was in the trash anyhow. I did not have an available rubber jar opener, but I will get one and keep it with the cameras.
billnikon wrote:
My aluminum filters do not stick.
Thaz OK ... we luv u anywaze.
TreborLow wrote:
Had a filter stick recently and none of my old tricks or filter wrenches worked, so I tried the "face down" on a thinly padded flat surface. I used a 20ish page advertising magazine and bingo, it worked on the first try!! Slightly shredded the first page of the magazine, but it was in the trash anyhow. I did not have an available rubber jar opener, but I will get one and keep it with the cameras.
Uh huh. Dig out those old mouse pads !
When applying brute force torque to certain zooms, macros, etc that have front sections that extend out, do not collapse the lens and then apply force. All of that telescoping length is relatively fragile, even when collapsed.
Instead, extend it all the way and get a solid grip on the forward most section. On some lenses there’s not much room to grip. A couple of rubber bands will aid your grip. If room is verrrry limited a combination of rubber bands plus a filter wrench is needed.
Obviously the lens is NOT on the camera. (If not obvious just take my word on it.)
That's a great tip and I've been doing that for years with lenses and filters that both have metal rings. Lenses with plastic rings either strip out or cross thread too easily and I don't think this will work for plastic. Maybe a dry silicone as it's neutral to corrosion and plastic doesn't react to it.
Thanks for the tip, good idea.
AndyH
Loc: Massachusetts and New Hampshire
User ID wrote:
When applying brute force torque to certain zooms, macros, etc that have front sections that extend out, do not collapse the lens and then apply force. All of that telescoping length is relatively fragile, even when collapsed.
Instead, extend it all the way and get a solid grip on the forward most section. On some lenses there’s not much room to grip. A couple of rubber bands will aid your grip. If room is verrrry limited a combination of rubber bands plus a filter wrench is needed.
Obviously the lens is NOT on the camera. (If not obvious just take my word on it.)
When applying brute force torque to certain zooms,... (
show quote)
This is good to keep in mind, even on lenses that don't "trombone". Pressing the flat filter surface down horizontally should not be done with excessive force anyway, it's usually not required. I've never actually gotten even an aluminum filter stuck on a lens since I began rubbing a bar of Ivory Soap on the filter threads. It doesn't take much.
Andy
grandpaw wrote:
if you have ever had a problem with a filter sticking on one of your lenses try this..... Take a sharp pencil and run it though the threads of the filter before screwing it on your lens. The graffite in the threads will allow for easier removal later and more than likely keep it from sticking.
My father used to buy little tubes of graphite dust and used it for all kinds of lubrication.
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