Looking for suggestions.
Pals 'n Gals, I shot the exemplar photo of girl's field hockey last night. The EXIF data includes M focus, 1/400 s, f2.8, ISO 5000, EV +3.00 with my D7100 and Tamron 70-210 f2.8. Any suggestions on how I can set up the camera to get a brighter, clearer picture would be appreciated. The venue in which it was shot is an air-inflated dome with 3 atheletic fields. I am not sure of the kind of lighting (other than it is very dim inside), but it is indirect off a white domed ceiling. Looking forward to hearing your advice. Frank
Dziadzi wrote:
Pals 'n Gals, I shot the exemplar photo of girl's field hockey last night.
Wow, I'd say about the only camera adjustment I might make is shutter speed - slow it down a tad - but you run the risk of a slightly blurry image of the player. Shooting RAW would give you some latitude in exposure adjustments. I spend a few minutes using Adobe Camera Raw in adjusting the exposure and it did make an improvement in the image even tho its a JPG. With the image in RAW format I think there is a bit more that can be done to improve the image - noise isn't bad and can be dealt with reasonably well.
First a question for you, when the exposure compensation is set for +3, does the camera take all of it out of ISO, or does it also slow shutter speed when it runs out of ISO?
As Fred pointed out, some processing will work wonders on this photo, and those like it.
--Bob
Dziadzi wrote:
Pals 'n Gals, I shot the exemplar photo of girl's field hockey last night. The EXIF data includes M focus, 1/400 s, f2.8, ISO 5000, EV +3.00 with my D7100 and Tamron 70-210 f2.8. Any suggestions on how I can set up the camera to get a brighter, clearer picture would be appreciated. The venue in which it was shot is an air-inflated dome with 3 atheletic fields. I am not sure of the kind of lighting (other than it is very dim inside), but it is indirect off a white domed ceiling. Looking forward to hearing your advice. Frank
Pals 'n Gals, I shot the exemplar photo of girl's ... (
show quote)
the exposure triangle aperture, shutterspeed, iso
to get more light raise iso and/or decrease shutterspeed, and/or open aperture
you are at max aperture for your lens so a faster lens say 1.4 is an option but expensive
decreasing shutterspeed to adds light but may increase motion blur for any fast moving action
increasing iso could add noise
shoot in manual so you control the 3 elements of the exposure triangle
You are at good settings, best way from here is to shoot RAW and do editing
in Lightroom or other program. With your iso at 5000 already, that is maxed,
you don't want to slow the shutter speed, if anything it needs to be bumped
at bit faster depending on what you want to capture. Is the M focus mean
manual focus? If so you are really taking on a challenge in sports!
I switched from my D7200 crop to a D750 full frame for indoor sports similar
to your conditions (volleyball) and the quality is tremendously better at the
higher ISO's. My personal rule also is that proper exposure trumps low ISO
for picture quality.
Have you tried the sports setting on your camera?
This one just needs some post-processing, I think.
bleirer wrote:
First a question for you, when the exposure compensation is set for +3, does the camera take all of it out of ISO, or does it also slow shutter speed when it runs out of ISO?
I think it depends on the camera and which priority mode you are in. On my Sony in aperture priority the EC will give a longer exposure until it gets to what it considers the limit of hand held and then it will start boosting the ISO - at least that's what it did the one time I tested it.
bleirer wrote:
First a question for you, when the exposure compensation is set for +3, does the camera take all of it out of ISO, or does it also slow shutter speed when it runs out of ISO?
Thanks, but I have no idea what that means.
67skylark27 wrote:
You are at good settings, best way from here is to shoot RAW and do editing
in Lightroom or other program. With your iso at 5000 already, that is maxed,
you don't want to slow the shutter speed, if anything it needs to be bumped
at bit faster depending on what you want to capture. Is the M focus mean
manual focus? If so you are really taking on a challenge in sports!
I switched from my D7200 crop to a D750 full frame for indoor sports similar
to your conditions (volleyball) and the quality is tremendously better at the
higher ISO's. My personal rule also is that proper exposure trumps low ISO
for picture quality.
You are at good settings, best way from here is to... (
show quote)
Thanks, I have been shooting with AUTO focus, the M is Manual settings.
67skylark27 wrote:
You are at good settings, best way from here is to shoot RAW and do editing
in Lightroom or other program. With your iso at 5000 already, that is maxed,
you don't want to slow the shutter speed, if anything it needs to be bumped
at bit faster depending on what you want to capture. Is the M focus mean
manual focus? If so you are really taking on a challenge in sports!
I switched from my D7200 crop to a D750 full frame for indoor sports similar
to your conditions (volleyball) and the quality is tremendously better at the
higher ISO's. My personal rule also is that proper exposure trumps low ISO
for picture quality.
You are at good settings, best way from here is to... (
show quote)
I tried the sports setting, but it slowed down the shutter to much for any kind of action.
Can anyone recommend a post-processing program that won't break the bank. I have only a casual acquaintance with the Nikon PP software.
Dziadzi wrote:
Thanks, but I have no idea what that means.
I was just curious about the +3 exposure compensation and why you chose that. If you were in full manual mode it shouldn't have any impact at all, but if you had auto ISO on, exposure compensation would work by increasing ISO above the exposure indicated by the meter. So you must be in full manual since you are not 3 stops overexposed.
Exposure compensation works differently in different exposure modes. For example in aperture priority it woukd affect shutter speed. Better to set it to zero most of the time if youre not sure what it does.
Dziadzi wrote:
Can anyone recommend a post-processing program that won't break the bank. I have only a casual acquaintance with the Nikon PP software.
Photoshop Elements is good and has a basic and advanced mode.
bleirer wrote:
Photoshop Elements is good and has a basic and advanced mode.
Thanks for the information
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