Looking for suggestions (Page 2): PS ACR Auto brings out the shadows.

par4fore Loc: Bay Shore N.Y.

Dziadzi wrote:

Pals 'n Gals, I shot the exemplar photo of girl's ... (show quote)

PS ACR Auto brings out the shadows.

(Download)

Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina

Increasing ISO doesn’t add any light... It just amplified the light captured by the sensor. Exposure is really aperture, shutter speed and light.

lloydl2 wrote:

the exposure triangle aperture, shutterspeed, iso
to get more light raise iso and/or decrease shutterspeed, and/or open aperture

you are at max aperture for your lens so a faster lens say 1.4 is an option but expensive
decreasing shutterspeed to adds light but may increase motion blur for any fast moving action
increasing iso could add noise
shoot in manual so you control the 3 elements of the exposure triangle

dpullum Loc: Tampa Florida

Do a horizontal flip, thus the photo begins with the small people on the bench and ends with the focus main subject. In western society we read from left to right, here the small white puck will be sailing into the future.

Dziadzi Loc: Wilkes-Barre, PA

par4fore wrote:

PS ACR Auto brings out the shadows.

WOW! May I ask what version of Photoshop you used what it cost you?

bleirer

repleo wrote:

I think it depends on the camera and which priority mode you are in. On my Sony in aperture priority the EC will give a longer exposure until it gets to what it considers the limit of hand held and then it will start boosting the ISO - at least that's what it did the one time I tested it.

That's what I was wondering, if the OP might have been inadvertently slowing the shutter with the exposure compensation. Would the real shutter speed still be reflected in the exif numbers in that situation? I dont use EC much or ever so never pay attention to it. With +3 I suspect it had no impact in this case as the OP later said manual mode.

avemal Loc: BALTIMORE

Use Exposure Compensation with your same setup.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

fredpnm wrote:

Wow, I'd say about the only camera adjustment I mi... (show quote)

Attachment herewith. A quick edit using Affinity - then exporting the JPG at 100% quality
Adjustments were to Contrast, plus Unsharp mask and Denoise. Pretty straight forward really - you should be able to adjust your camera to do these things.
The lesson here is - don't under-estimate SOOC JPGs - It's about knowing your camera. (or Affinity).

(Download)

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

I know that in the middle of the action it is very difficult to plan. Getting the shot is what is important and now that I said that it would have been very nice been able to see both feet of the athlete without amputations. A level adjustment can do a good job with this image.
I will crop the image on the far right and clone the bright spot in the foreground.

Because of the low light levels the image has chroma and luminance noise, easily taken care of with a denoise software.

Delderby Loc: Derby UK

camerapapi wrote:

I know that in the middle of the action it is very difficult to plan. Getting the shot is what is important and now that I said that it would have been very nice been able to see both feet of the athlete without amputations. A level adjustment can do a good job with this image.
I will crop the image on the far right and clone the bright spot in the foreground.

Because of the low light levels the image has chroma and luminance noise, easily taken care of with a denoise software.

I thought that bright spot was the puck?

ashriverguy Loc: Rural Minnesota

I have found that in situations like this the pop up flash on my camera does wonders.

lloydl2 Loc: Gilbert, AZ

Notorious T.O.D. wrote:

Increasing ISO doesn’t add any light... It just amplified the light captured by the sensor. Exposure is really aperture, shutter speed and light.

Technically speaking it is correct that iso doesn't
"add or subtract" light however in a practical sense it has the same effect as adding or subtracting light and is one of the 3 elements of the exposure triangle. doubling or halving the iso setting has the effect of adding or subtracting a full stop of light (and yes it does this by increasing or decreasing sensor gain and not actually adding or subtracting light.

no12mo

Dziadzi wrote:

Pals 'n Gals, I shot the exemplar photo of girl's ... (show quote)

Clearly underexposed. Did you use the camera's meter or an external one. That's a difficult shot and still freeze motion. I own a D7000 but still do not remember the upper limit of the ISO. If possible, push the ISO and try matrix metering instead of manual. In sports photography, it seems to me that manual mode would be difficult and still get the "money shots."

Since the lighting is static (doesn't change except for the shadows) you could take some test shots and then just leave the settings there. However, if you take shots in the shadows you will have to compensate. You can use the EV bias to correct for shadows - just know that the shutter speed will likely be slower than you would like. So, stay away from shadows shots and use the higher light levels where the action is likely to be anyway.

Does the sports arena forbid flash photography? That would work for close action but not telephoto shots

Cameraman

Dziadzi wrote:

Pals 'n Gals, I shot the exemplar photo of girl's ... (show quote)

I shoot a lot of dance program where the dancer is moving really fast. I have been able to capture her with 1/320 sec setting. You may want to try that so it will give you more light. And you can also increase the ISO and fix the graininess in Bridge or Lightroom.

Cameraman

jamesl Loc: Pennsylvania

Dziadzi wrote:

Pals 'n Gals, I shot the exemplar photo of girl's ... (show quote)

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What mode are you shooting in? If you are shooting entirely in Manual including actually setting the ISO, I don't think the +3 exposure compensation will do anything. I would suggest trying full Manual and set your shutter speed to whatever you need to stop blur, and your aperture at the 2.8 in this situation and try putting the ISO in Auto. If this gives you too dark an image check what you have the max ISO set to in the auto ISO menu. I have and use a D7100 but I am not familiar with the lens you are using. If it has vibration reduction on it, make sure it is on and you may be able to lower the shutter speed some if necessary.

CPR Loc: Nature Coast of Florida

You can only do so much with hardware. If a faster lens and flash are not an option then go to post-processing and shoot raw so you have more to work with.
Personally I find 10$ a month the right price for always up to date software that does anything I need, soooooo I have the Lightroom/Photoshop deal. Many folks don't like to pay rent so use something else, like Gimp.