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Suggestions for a low light indoor event
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Oct 10, 2019 13:51:12   #
Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina
 
It’s a dinner, rehearsal dinner, not the wedding...

Buzzardluck wrote:
FYI, I once 45 years ago acted as the photographer at my brother's wedding. Now even though they are divorced and remarried to others I still hear complaints about how bad the pictures were. As others have said hire a pro and enjoy the wedding.

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Oct 10, 2019 14:15:35   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
Notorious T.O.D. wrote:
It’s a dinner, rehearsal dinner, not the wedding...


Yup. At worst, an opportunity to learn how to use bounce flash, assuming the ceiling is not dark

One issue with low light levels and slow lenses is the inability to focus.
Let’s hope that’s not another issue to deal with. I had to zone focus at a wedding reception in France last month. I couldn’t get AF assist beam on the flash to work.

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Oct 10, 2019 14:20:03   #
carl hervol Loc: jacksonville florida
 
use the flash with the defuser
thats what they make them for.

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Oct 10, 2019 14:20:22   #
Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina
 
Probably can turn the lights down low at home at dinner and do some test shots...

GoofyNewfie wrote:
Yup. At best, an opportunity to learn how to use bounce flash, assuming the ceiling is not dark

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Oct 10, 2019 14:22:01   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
carl hervol wrote:
use the flash with the defuser
thats what they make them for.


Diffuser, unless there is a bomb.
And they only spread the light (widen the angle), not make it softer.

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Oct 10, 2019 14:36:43   #
photoman43
 
Given your current lenses, I would advise you to use your SB 800 flash mounted to your camera's flash shoe. Depending on the ambient light in the room, the flash can be either used as the main light or fill light.

I would experiment first by going to the location a day or two ahead of time and taking some test shots. I would do a series where the flash synch on the camera is set to main light. And a series where the flash synch is set to rear curtain.

Also experiment with bounce flash (off the ceiling).

And experiment with setting Flash exposure compensation usually with minus numbers. .

If all of this is too complicated, set the camera to P mode, and the flash set to BL or balanced. This way the computer in the camera works with the computer in the flash. This still might require flash exp comp to be set to a minus number like minus 1.0, 1.3 or even minus 2.0. Take some test shots before the event to see what works best for you.

If you really want to master Nikon flash system, consider the following book by Mike Hagen (I own it and use it.) Or Mike Hagen's video classes. He is a suburb teacher.

https://www.creativelive.com/photography/lighting/how-to-shoot-with-your-first-flash-mike-hagen

https://rockynook.com/shop/photography/the-nikon-creative-lighting-system-3rd-edition/

Hope this helps and good luck.

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Oct 10, 2019 15:30:25   #
Dan Ausec
 
yssirk123 wrote:
Your lenses are too slow to not use the SB800, which is a fine flash and will work flawlessly with your D7200. I shot weddings with a pair of them for a decade and they will do the job for you.



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Oct 10, 2019 15:35:00   #
Dan Ausec
 
billnikon wrote:
I really didn't mean your bacon will burn but your really asking for it with your current equipment.
Here is my helpful suggestion, use your fastest lens, the AF-S 18-70mm 1:3-4:5G. Your going to have to get higher on your ISO, shoot at no smaller than f5.6, your really going to have a shallow depth of field so use it at 18 mm to 24 mm.
IF it was me, I would use my SB800, turn the flash head up and behind you and use a black felt paper and put it around the end of your flash to make a funnel and use a elastic girls ponytail band to secure it to your flash. Using the flash this way will retain a lot of candle effect. Use manual on the camera and TTL on the flash. A base exposure might be 1/30 sec. at f8, then adjust your ISO to get the effect you want.
I WOULD STRONGLY SUGGEST YOU GO TO THE VENUE BEFORE THE EVENT AND TRY OUT THESE TECHNIQUES.
And, if there is a NEXT time, let a pro do the work.
I really didn't mean your bacon will burn but your... (show quote)


The good ole Black Foamie Thing..never misses :)

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Oct 10, 2019 15:38:43   #
sirlensalot Loc: Arizona
 
Candlelight shots without flash can be awesome, but you won't get there with your lenses without pumping up your ISO to high levels. Rent, borrow, or buy a prime. Without knowing the space you will have to operate it's hard to guess at what focal length would be advisable. I think the 35mm already suggested is a good choice.

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Oct 10, 2019 15:43:19   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
Dan Ausec wrote:
The good ole Black Foamie Thing..never misses :)


Black Foamy Thing link from Neil van Niekerk.
Other great info at his site.
A MUST read!

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Oct 10, 2019 19:12:39   #
PAR4DCR Loc: A Sunny Place
 
As others have suggested, use your SB800 Speedlite. I also think that you are underestimating your ISO at 1000 to 1600. You may have to go as high as 5000 to 8000 if you don't use a speedlite. I shoot with a D7200 and only a 50mm with f1.8 so I do have some experience in this area.

Don

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Oct 10, 2019 19:41:12   #
JR45 Loc: Montgomery County, TX
 
This was taken recently at a reunion using a D500,
ISO 2000, P mode, Nikkor 18-300, in a well lit room.
Check the EXIF for specifics.
If hiring a pro is out of the question, at least try to visit
to see what you are looking at for light. Plan on using a flash.


(Download)

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Oct 10, 2019 22:32:40   #
Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY
 
foxfirerodandgun wrote:
I have been asked to take pictures of a wedding rehearsal dinner at a local eatery and would like some suggestions on settings. I'll be using a Nikon D7200 with a choice of two kit lens, AF-S 1:4-5:6G, 55-200mm and/or, AF-S 18-70mm 1:3-4:5G. I don't plan to use my SB-800 flash unit and really don't want to use the pop up flash either unless absolutely necessary. My initial thoughts are:

1) Auto ISO
2) Aperture priority

or possibly

1) ISO 1000 to 1600
2) f/5.6 to f/11

It will be at night and the room will be low light and possibly with candles. I'm not sure if it will be florescent or tungsten lighting. I try to stay away from this type of photography due to some miserable results in the past. But this is for my son & his family so I really don't have a choice. Any & all suggestions are welcomed. "Pops" bacon is kind of on the line here.
I have been asked to take pictures of a wedding re... (show quote)


My question was going to be whether you are getting paid for this--if you are "Pops," I assume not. If you were paid, you would have to find out what they want exactly and plan accordingly, and most likely you would want to sell them a package with lots of pictures.

Another assumption--they don't have a pro because a) they will have plenty of those pictures from the wedding, and b) they consider this a more informal family thing, where nice snapshots are fine.

My own philosophy about these things would suit nobody by myself (and I would never shoot a wedding for love or money). For the occasion you describe, I would just plan on getting everybody together for a formal group shot, a row sitting and a row standing (or whatever, depending on the size of the group). If there is a head table or immediate family, maybe another shot with them. I would place the group where there is good light, or just use slow speed on a tripod, like old-fashioned portraits. A record of all the antics is not my cup of tea, but if you want that, just use flash on the camera and use automatic. They are snapshots. If you are in the family, it would be a shame to become part of the help, yes? Make a fine group portrait for posterity, and party.

A normal lens is about right for full figure people, up to four or adults, and a 35mm equivalent lens for a larger group. Don't use anything new or different from your regular shooting habits. No need for close portraits--the wedding pro will have lots of those in full battle dress. For the snapshots, any old zoom should be fine (and might be fine for the group portraits as well). All you really need here are the pictures you can look at in 25 years and say, "Who the devil was that?" No need to rub it in how good looking everybody used to be.

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Oct 11, 2019 04:17:09   #
Pistnbroke Loc: UK
 
Have been doing this for 40 years so forget the others and listen up. Take your 18 to 70 zoom Shoot jpeg and have sharpness at +9. Stick the flash in the shoe and only shoot landscape (crop later) or you will get side shadows..shoot straight on no bounce or other rubbish. Set auto iso to 200 min and this will go to 800 with the flash on. The batteries last longer and its not so bright on the subjects eyes. Set the continuous to 2fps and take 2 or 3 of everything to avoid blinkers. Use A mode at f8. If you want atmospheric stuff just switch to P mode and turn the flash off as P mode usually is the widest aperture. The reason you failed in the past is because you did not do what I just told you. You can check results here ..client area ..reception pics will be towards the end of the set and the dancing will be last … www.1and1photography.co.uk use hogs@gmail.com as a password.

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Oct 15, 2019 17:40:53   #
topcat Loc: Alameda, CA
 
If you want to use the pop up flash or any flash, a modifier would help greatly. The Gary Fong modifier for pop up flash is great, but you can get something similar on eBay for a lot less...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Color-Puffer-Pop-Up-Flash-Soft-Diffuser-Dome-For-Canon-Nikon-Pentax-DSLR/392478973039?hash=item5b6191dc6f:g:N5cAAOxyGStRxEOU

What is wrong with using your flash.

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