burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

RRiggins Loc: Colorado Springs

Do not use the "sticky" type gel cleaners. You'll be sorry. And so will the tech who has to clean the mess the leave. U do these for a living and it took me 118 tries to get a sensor clean after one of my clients tried this method to clean a sensor.

I always try using air, canned or blower, first. If that doesn't work I use a wet wipe to clean the sensor. This is tricky and you need a lot of practice to get it right the first time. If you do use a wet method, use Eclipse cleaning fluid and only use a drop on the tip of the cleaning wand. You'll need to change cleaning pads often and blow the left over micro lint off the sensor between wipes but eventually, the sensor will be clean. Be sure to clean the inside of the mirror box before cleaning the sensor and make sure there is nothing on the sensor that will scratch. I recommend canned air for this but be careful and hold the can upright. it will blow out liquid air and it's cold enough to crack glass.

Rick

charles tabb Loc: Richmond VA.

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Google: SensorKLEAR LOUPE.
Then go to B&H and get one.
It has never failed me yet.

Charles

JohnR Loc: The Gates of Hell

Have the sensor cleaned before leaving, rent or buy a Nikon 18-200mm (or 300mm), fit that and don't remove it from the camera for the whole trip. Your sensor should not get dirty. Perfectly adequate lenses as long as you don't go out to max zoom,

brooklyn-camera I Loc: Brooklyn, NY

I use the gel stick all the time and never had a problem with this tool. First buy the original ($55.00) and not a Chinese ($15.00) knock off. It will remove dust and dirt partials,it will not remove oil. Also keep the gel stick at room temp not in the trunk or glove-box of your car. Remember whatever you use, make sure to use a Giottos blower rocket air first to get rid of loose and larger dust or dirt partials.

sinderone

Thanks for your input. I actually had the sensor cleaned and mounted my 18-200, but I like to use my 10-20 for landscapes and in crowded cities. I know, it’s a trade off but a once in a lifetime photo opportunity. Life is a crap shoot so I’ll hope for the best.

JohnR Loc: The Gates of Hell

2 cameras? Nikon D7100 with the 10-20, something else with a longer zoom? Maybe a compact? I have a Nikon A1000 - quite small - pocketable with an EVF, shoots RAW and with a huge zoom (which I rarely use) is terrific for anything past 20mm. Just a thought - have a great trip.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

My advise for those who clean the sensor is to be VERY careful. If the low pass filter or in your case the sensor gets scratched the repairs are going to be expensive.
Very simply follow common sense when changing lenses and keep the camera upside down till you fit the new lens. Avoid changing lenses in dusty environments and even when using a zoom learn to step backward or forward to get the shot, in the majority of the cases without changing lenses. I tend to use a fixed focal length with my zooms and stick to it changing to another focal length only when necessary. Moving around in those environments is better for the camera than changing lenses.

Fresh dust spots are easily removed with a blower, oily spots require more aggressive measures which I leave to a professional.

GLSmith Loc: Tampa, Fl

I’ve used the Article Butterfly for years

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

I have been cleaning my own sensors for many years and don't find it difficult.

(1) See if it needs it. Many people take a shot of a clear sky or a white wall. The only problem there is sometimes you don't have a clear sky, or it's night when you have the time to try this, or all your walls have structure on them. I find the easiest thing to do is to use a blank page on your computer's word processor. You stop down your lens and place the lens right up against the screen. Use a reasonable ISO. You don't want too much noise. Expose whatever it takes. Camera motion is irrelevant so you can use fairly long shutter times.

(2) Use the blower first. It might be all you need. Keep your blower in a plastic bag so it doesn't collect dust. When you take it out, give it a few squeezes to blow out any dust that managed to get in there. Take the lens of your camera, hold it with the lens opening down so the dust doesn't fall back in, and blow out the mirror box. Then set the camera to mirror-up for cleaning. Never use a long shutter time or the bulb setting for this purpose. It always takes you longer than you expect and if you accidentally move your finger off the button while something's in there you could damage the shutter. Also, if you use a long shutter or bulb setting, the power is on to the sensor, providing some electrostatic attraction for the dust. With the mirror-up cleaning setting the power is off. Blow off the sensor and do step (1) again to see what happened. I generally do this step up to 3 times. If it takes more than that it's worth doing a more robust cleaning.

(3) I have an Arctic Butterfly. It's a wimpy brush that you can give an electrostatic charge to hold the dust. I find it useful but if you don't have one, just skip to step 4.

(4) Sensor swab with Eclipse fluid. Not wet, but moist, so you don't leave a lot of fluid behind. Generally 1-2 drops on the swab is enough. Use the correct size swab for your sensor. I usually do this with the lens hole upwards since it's easier that way, less chance of a mis-step trying to hold the camera with the hole down and working upwards. I place the swab on the sensor at a slight angle and pull it across the sensor. I then reverse the angle and pull it back across the sensor. That way you use both sides of the swab. At that point you have used up that swab. Throw it away. Don't use it more than once. Swabs are much cheaper than sensors. When you're done, check for dust again as in step 1. Again, this step may require several tries to clear everything, depending on what you actually have on your sensor.

Nigel7 Loc: Worcestershire. UK.

The best solution is to avoid getting spots in the first place. Always turn the camera off before changing lenses. Keep the lens opening facing down and complete the change as quickly as possible. I have worked for an estate agent photographing around 400 houses a year for 11 years and changing lenses at every house. Never have I needed to clean the sensor on my EOS 5 Mk2 & 3 bodies.

DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA

I don't believe that's really possible. There are sources of dust inside the camera. Moving parts wear. Dust can get in through lenses even if you don't change them. Focusing moves the lens, changing the volume inside, leading to air flow through gaps in the mechanism. Even changing air pressure will move air in and out of the camera.

If you don't see dust on your camera after an extended period of use, you're not looking closely enough.

GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City

Arctic Butterfly?
(Interesting to see what spell-correct substitutes.)

I've always been curious about that product.

Dalbon

If you're going to China then you really should see the Guilin, Yangshuo and Xingping area. I've been there 6 times and it's one of the most photographed areas in China. They use to have hot air rides until one went down in 2009 and the government stopped all balloons from going up. In 2017 when I was there I did see ultra lights flying around but don't have any information about them. I can also give you the name of a great guide as well as a photographer. The guide knows where the great shots are for sunrise and sunsets as well as any other shots you like to take. The photographer doesn't speak English but if you see his work you'd love it. He's great is all I can say. I also have a link for his web site if you want it.
David

rgrenaderphoto Loc: Hollywood, CA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aAiTy3qGg2Y

You can call Shanghai, China at +88-21-6989-9782 and ask.