Umnak
Loc: Mount Vernon, Wa.
Looking out over the Skagit Valley from Little Mountain. I have primarily shot in auto modes in the past. I am trying to learn how to do my own settings, so any and all thoughts on basic settings and PP will be appreciated. One of these days I will need to step up for PP software......
#2 is my favorite, keep up all your very good efforts in mastering "Manual Exposure", once you get the Hang of it, you will be creating "Stunning" Images.
What Camera and Lens are you using?
CPR
Loc: Nature Coast of Florida
I've shot manual mode for a lot of years since that was all there was back then. You use the light meter in the viewfinder and adjust as needed. You have to understand the why of it but you get so you automatically run the shutter speed up for action, etc. Only difference for me is having the ISO adjustment available instead of having to load faster film.
Sorry I put in for the wrong person.
Umnak wrote:
Looking out over the Skagit Valley from Little Mountain. I have primarily shot in auto modes in the past. I am trying to learn how to do my own settings, so any and all thoughts on basic settings and PP will be appreciated. One of these days I will need to step up for PP software......
I to like the second picture and the fact your lens was wide open at f4.5 make for better photo IMHO.
Umnak
Loc: Mount Vernon, Wa.
Silverrails wrote:
#2 is my favorite, keep up all your very good efforts in mastering "Manual Exposure", once you get the Hang of it, you will be creating "Stunning" Images.
What Camera and Lens are you using?
Canon 80D canon EF-S 18-55mm & 55-250. Thank you for the advice!
First off you are looking for the widest aperture that will still give you the DOF that you require. Is there anything up close that needs to be sharp? If the answer's no you'll get away with a much lower f-stop and the focus point can be off in the distance. If there is something in the near foreground that you want to be sharp you have to start thinking about hyperfocal distance and choosing a closer focus point (not as difficult as it sounds).
Are you using a tripod? If yes, the only shutter speed factor that you need to think about is movement within the frame, such as branches or grass being blown by the wind, flowing water, animals, people or cars moving etc. For a hand-held shot, shutter speed needs to be at least 1/focal length but preferably faster.
Motion blur and too shallow a DOF are the most likely shot spoilers, so aperture and shutter speed are the most critical values. ISO gives you a bit more leeway since it is the most compromisable exposure variable. ISO noise can be worked on and it would have to be extreme before it became a shot spoiler.
Beyond that you need to understand the circumstances that can cause your camera's meter to give a bad exposure. Exposure compensation is the cure for that problem, or exposure bracketing provided the movement within the frame doesn't exclude it as a possibility.
Umnak
Loc: Mount Vernon, Wa.
R.G. wrote:
First off you are looking for the widest aperture that will still give you the DOF that you require. Is there anything up close that needs to be sharp? If the answer's no you'll get away with a much lower f-stop and the focus point can be off in the distance. If there is something in the near foreground that you want to be sharp you have to start thinking about hyperfocal distance and choosing a closer focus point (not as difficult as it sounds).
Are you using a tripod? If yes, the only shutter speed factor that you need to think about is movement within the frame, such as branches or grass being blown by the wind, flowing water, animals, people or cars moving etc. For a hand-held shot, shutter speed needs to be at least 1/focal length but preferably faster.
Motion blur and too shallow a DOF are the most likely shot spoilers, so aperture and shutter speed are the most critical values. ISO gives you a bit more leeway since it is the most compromisable exposure variable. ISO noise can be worked on and it would have to be extreme before it became a shot spoiler.
Beyond that you need to understand the circumstances that can cause your camera's meter to give a bad exposure. Exposure compensation is the cure for that problem, or exposure bracketing provided the movement within the frame doesn't exclude it as a possibility.
First off you are looking for the widest aperture ... (
show quote)
I have both a tripod and monopod but last night was hand held. I really appreciate the "why and how to adjust" tips for shutter speed and exposure thoughts very much! Thank you for taking the time to lend a hand!
Umnak wrote:
I have both a tripod and monopod but last night was hand held. I really appreciate the "why and how to adjust" tips for shutter speed and exposure thoughts very much! Thank you for taking the time to lend a hand!
You're welcome. Lots of people do a good job of showing how complicated photography can be. I hope I've done a good job of showing how simple it can be.
When it comes to PP I recommend that you subscribe to the PP section
HERE, or click on "All Sections" below. Don't worry about asking very basic questions.
I live in Sedro Woolley. I might be of some help.
itsmeagain@frontier.com
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