natureslight wrote:
Alright, again I thank you, but I have some learning to do. My thoughts were a 100mb 16 bit tiff file (not sure if this is lossless or not exported from lightroom] in Adobe 1998 color space would give a much better resolution on a large print, say 20"x40", than a 6mb jpeg in sRGB. I am researching some of what you said previously and learning about file resizing and exporting now. I know I'm confusing some of these issues and am trying to get this all figured out for the best quality prints I can get. Perhaps a larger jpeg file is all I need. As I stated in my original post, all the labs I've looked into so far only handle 8 bit jpeg files in sRGB.
Alright, again I thank you, but I have some learni... (
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Just don’t confuse file size with image dimensions. Many people make that mistake. There are many factors that affect print quality. File size is not necessarily one of them.
If you convert raw data to an image, work on it some, crop it, then resize it and sharpen it gently and export it as a virgin, full quality JPEG, a good lab will make a nice print from it.
Imagemine wrote:
the best advice I can give , is export from light room in at lease 750 dpi that will cover you with most large prints , also you can select that when you export your image 300 dpi for smaller prints like 8x10 & 13x19 another thing calibrate your monitor before printing I use Spyder Pro. Good Luck !
Yep, I have a calibrator and I will do that. Still trying to understand all these variables. Do you send your files in Jpeg or tiff? And who do you use? Thanks for your reply.
natureslight wrote:
Adobe also has Prophoto RGB which I haven't used. Can anyone enlighten me at all on this topic, and possibly a print lab they would recommend? Also, it will be mostly landscape/nature type pics I will be working with. Thanks in advance for any good advice I get.
While i cant recommend a printer i can give you a sample of an actual AdobeRGB file we have sent for printing. This was printed on Duratrans (backlit color transparency film) and installed on a lightbox posterboard.
If you will download it, you can see just how small the file is compared to its print size of 99x139cm (almost 40x57 inches). If scrutinized you may be able to barely see the banding i was talking about. But all in all it was of good enough quality for normal viewing.
Do not be confused with file size and quality image. An image can be small and still be ok or gigabyte size and still be worthless.
.
Wallen wrote:
While i cant recommend a printer i can give you a sample of an actual AdobeRGB file we have sent for printing. This was printed on Duratrans (backlit color transparency film) and installed on a lightbox posterboard.
If you will download it, you can see just how small the file is compared to its print size of 99x139cm (almost 40x57 inches). If scrutinized you may be able to barely see the banding i was talking about. But all in all it was of good enough quality for normal viewing.
Do not be confused with file size and quality image. An image can be small and still be ok or gigabyte size and still be worthless.
.
While i cant recommend a printer i can give you a ... (
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Incredible Quality !!
Makes me wonder what Equipment was used to Achieve this, what Camera..Lens...could you tell us ?
Wallen wrote:
While i cant recommend a printer i can give you a sample of an actual AdobeRGB file we have sent for printing. This was printed on Duratrans (backlit color transparency film) and installed on a lightbox posterboard.
If you will download it, you can see just how small the file is compared to its print size of 99x139cm (almost 40x57 inches). If scrutinized you may be able to barely see the banding i was talking about. But all in all it was of good enough quality for normal viewing.
Do not be confused with file size and quality image. An image can be small and still be ok or gigabyte size and still be worthless.
.
While i cant recommend a printer i can give you a ... (
show quote)
I think what I'm confused about is print resolution. I understand what the poster burkphoto was saying about viewing distance but I'm still not quite clear on two issues. From the color profile videos I've watched, they've all said tiff files will give you better more true color images. Also, when I export my raw files [approx 23 mb] in jpeg at 100% quality and 300 dpi, they're only a 5-6mb file. An earlier poster said his 47mb raw files were exporting to over 20mb jpegs. So I'm not sure what settings he's using, I have to figure this out yet. Although I'm concerned about print resolution, I'm more concerned about getting accurate colors to my printed image as what I see on my monitor. I have an expensive monitor that supports 99% Adobe RGB and full sRGB as well as an X-Rite Display Pro calibrator, so I can achieve accurate colors on my screen. My understanding is sRGB was created for using images on the screen, so I can't yet understand how that color profile can be sufficient for rendering accurate colors in print when other color spaces are available [adobe 1998 for one], and that is what most of these labs claim. When exporting from lightroom, 16 bit files in tiff are an option, but only 8bit in jpeg. My camera captures 14 bit. I need to find a lab that can work in that color space and possibly send me a large image printed in both sRGB and Adobe RGB for comparison. Obviously I'm new to this printing game, but I'm going to keep researching this until I get it. When saying a large file can be worthless, what specifically do you mean? Are you talking about noise, dpi, white balance? Thanks much for your help. Mark
As I am also confused about all this, I have done some research too, and I keep on reading that TIFF is the best option,..here`s a link to a printer called Atwood :
https://www.atwoodprint.com/resources/articles/jpgortiff.htmlThey say, and I quote :
" The JPEG file format has gained prominence over the past few years, in large part due to its ability to provide a fairly high-quality image at a fraction of the size of other formats, such as TIFF. Of course, that benefit comes at a cost."
I also have read about a British photog who had RAW files from a wedding shoot, and went to three print-shops, off whom none could get the colors right , especially Skin-tones, they told him they had to use conversions, for their equipment could Not read his RAW files and Advised him to submit Jpeg or better , TIFF files,....so now, I think to obtain best possible Printing results I must set my camera to TIFF,..which will slow down write times...but it should yield the best possible quality.
Novicus wrote:
Incredible Quality !!
Makes me wonder what Equipment was used to Achieve this, what Camera..Lens...could you tell us ?
Some photos i took with our previous camera- Nikon D90 / 18-105 lens. The other images/elements were provided by our suppliers or acquired from stock photo sites.
It is a composite image done in Photoshop.
Even some of the bottles were separate photos that were cut and pasted together.
As an example;
1. The Haut-Logat bottles' Label & Cap came from a separate photo pasted over my own graphic drawing of a dark bottle (yep, that black bottle is actually a drawing as is the Piper bottles).
2. The Gold cap/seal of the Piper bottles are exact replicas of each other (copy paste
)
20 X 30" prints from Costco are ridiculously cheap and of excellent quality. Also, if you are serious about large prints I suggest you take a serious look at Topaz Labs' Gigapixel AI program for which there is a 30 day free trial.
Cheers
Novicus wrote:
As I am also confused about all this, I have done some research too, and I keep on reading that TIFF is the best option,..here`s a link to a printer called Atwood :
https://www.atwoodprint.com/resources/articles/jpgortiff.htmlThey say, and I quote :
" The JPEG file format has gained prominence over the past few years, in large part due to its ability to provide a fairly high-quality image at a fraction of the size of other formats, such as TIFF. Of course, that benefit comes at a cost."
I also have read about a British photog who had RAW files from a wedding shoot, and went to three print-shops, off whom none could get the colors right , especially Skin-tones, they told him they had to use conversions, for their equipment could Not read his RAW files and Advised him to submit Jpeg or better , TIFF files,....so now, I think to obtain best possible Printing results I must set my camera to TIFF,..which will slow down write times...but it should yield the best possible quality.
As I am also confused about all this, I have done ... (
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Labs don't generally accept raw files. High volume production software does not support raw conversions. The expectation in the digital age is that if you want to print from raw, or more precisely, directly from the conversion, you must connect a high end printer to your computer and do it yourself.
There are a few very posh service bureaus who will do that for you. They're mostly in major cities. They are not inexpensive!
I convert them a jpeg, and use Whitewall but I heard some good things about Bay Photo Labs and I'm told Bay Photo Labs are easier to use than Whitewall again hope that helps
Mr. Wallen, thank you
That is a crafty piece of professionalism, it shows, once again ,..it`s Not the Pen but the Hand that wields it
Yes, I am looking into that, as I kinda mis the darkroom ,but then comes the choice of printer, I hear that Canon should have some real nice ones with five or seven color bottles,but...I am a Nikon shooter ..
Kidding aside, I am Torn between HewlettPackard..Epsom,..Canon , with HP supposedly having the Best ink,..is there some truth in that ?
Reed Photo Art In Denver it’s considered to be one of the top three fine art labs in the country
Nicholas DeSciose wrote:
Reed Photo Art In Denver it’s considered to be one of the top three fine art labs in the country
I'll check it out. Thank You.
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