Avoid camera shake for still photography of orcas in a choppy boat (Page 2): How about shooting video and doing a frame capture in post? Won't be very hi res, however it should be...

ggab Loc: ?

RahulKhosla wrote:

Any ideas for easy ( portable, light, travel-frien... (show quote)

How about shooting video and doing a frame capture in post?
Won't be very hi res, however it should be clear.

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Stardust wrote:

When shooting whales, other than trying to match shots to the peak or low of the boat's "bob" if time, I also shoot in Continuous (burst) mode finding I have more keepers.

Gotta be a half-second of no movement there!

abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois

Dat Quach wrote:

The only thing that I can think of is a larger vessel which is more stable on water. Also, a larger boat allows more elbow room for DSLR and longer lens with VR.

The following is captured in the Kenai Fjord National Park with Nikon D500 and 200-500mm.

Very good shot. Thanks for sharing.

abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois

Having read all the posts and based upon my own experience, excuse me if I repeat. I recommend bracing any part of your body against the nearest part of the boat. Use high speed capture, shutter priority at 1/500 sec or faster, auto ISO, and AI-servo focus if you use Canon. And if you are lucky, you might have 10% deserving of post-processing. My lens of choice: Sigma 150-600 C. Most of my shots were above 300 mm.

And I forgot the part well beyond your control: the whales themselves. When in the mood, they are show-offs. Porpoises and dolphins are great too and will swim along side you. Bring Dramamine just in case.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

RahulKhosla wrote:

Any ideas for easy ( portable, light, travel-frien... (show quote)

High shutter speed, stand with knees slightly bent and absorbing motion keeping upper body more stable.
Beyond that I don't know as that is what I do.

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

Focal length at least x3 for shutter speed and an ISO to get you there. Aperture at F8 or higher might help with greater DoF. And shoot bursts for greater selection.

Jerry Green Loc: Huntsville, AL

Found this in a search:
https://www.ken-lab.com/store/p2/KS2_Gyro_Kit.html

SafariGuy

RahulKhosla wrote:

Any ideas for easy ( portable, light, travel-friendly) solutions to stabilise a camera in a boat that’s moving on the sea ? Despite avoiding taking my full frame heavier DSLRs and lenses, I opted to take a Sony RX 10 mark IV. Very poor keep rate. Even when the boat slowed down or stopped it was rocking because of the waves. Really difficult to get tack sharp photos because of camera shake. A tripod would be very impractical (May not even be allowed).

We were just doing this a few weeks ago off of San Juan Island, WA and you’re right tripods would have been rendered useless. I shot in aperture priority and cranked up the ISO to 3200, f/5.6 which put my shutter speed at 1/8000 sec and used a 400mm prime lens. I did not capture any award winning whale images but at least they weren’t a complete blur with the boat bobbing around on the choppy water.

Attached file:
(Download)

Attached file:
(Download)

abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois

gvarner wrote:

Focal length at least x3 for shutter speed and an ISO to get you there. Aperture at F8 or higher might help with greater DoF. And shoot bursts for greater selection.

I do not think depth of field is an issue because the whales stay far enough away. Normally, I shoot two stops down from the maximum aperture. However, for whales, I go only one stop down because I want to pick up the shutter speed and reduce the ISO and the resulting noise.

No one has mentioned image stabilization. Generally, this is not recommended for the faster shutter speeds used for whales.

abc1234 Loc: Elk Grove Village, Illinois

SafariGuy wrote:

We were just doing this a few weeks ago off of San Juan Island, WA and you’re right tripods would have been rendered useless. I shot in aperture priority and cranked up the ISO to 3200, f/5.6 which put my shutter speed at 1/8000 sec and used a 400mm prime lens. I did not capture any award winning whale images but at least they weren’t a complete blur with the boat bobbing around on the choppy water.

I am down near 1/640 sec and still get frozen motion.

bsprague Loc: Lacey, WA, USA

Consider the shutter speed recommendations and burst shooting. The second or third exposure can often be "calmer" than the first.

Another rarely seen technique is to use a monopod with the foot tucked behind your belt. Manfrotto makes a specialized monopod pocket to put on a belt. You may need a ballhead to make this work.

If you have a smallish tripod, partially extend only two legs with the feet tucked into the pockets of sturdy pants/jeans/shorts. You may look weird but your camera will be remarkably stable.

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

RahulKhosla wrote:

Thank you all for your responses. I really did try my best with a 2500 SS, as wide an aperture I could manage and really exercising those core muscles to pan in sync with the boat. The other point I realised from your responses is that no one suggested any “equipment” solution other than a Ronin..... It’s basically up to settings, balance, and good luck ! Thank you all once again.

I personally had nothing to add to the suggestions. I do have to say I was absolutely amazed that you didn't get a heap of equipment recommendations!
That's rather unusual here.

Dan Mc Loc: NM

Get a simple eye bolt *commercial ones on E bay for about 3 to 6 bucks* and about seven feet of simple clothes-line rope. Make a loop on one end large enough to step one foot into *like a saddle stirrup* and the other to the eye bolt thing attached to your camera tripod mount. Pull upwards on that rope...give it a try for the price of a Starbucks low fat, sugar free, double shot mocha and almond with non fat whipped cream topping!!!

nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

Dan Mc wrote:

Get a simple eye bolt *commercial ones on E bay for about 3 to 6 bucks* and about seven feet of simple clothes-line rope. Make a loop on one end large enough to step one foot into *like a saddle stirrup* and the other to the eye bolt thing attached to your camera tripod mount. Pull upwards on that rope...give it a try for the price of a Starbucks low fat, sugar free, double shot mocha and almond with non fat whipped cream topping!!!

The poor man's monopod!

R.G. Loc: Scotland

Dan Mc wrote:

Get a simple eye bolt *commercial ones on E bay for about 3 to 6 bucks* and about seven feet of simple clothes-line rope. Make a loop on one end large enough to step one foot into *like a saddle stirrup* and the other to the eye bolt thing attached to your camera tripod mount. Pull upwards on that rope...give it a try for the price of a Starbucks low fat, sugar free, double shot mocha and almond with non fat whipped cream topping!!!

Also referred to as a string pod (link)