Avoid camera shake for still photography of orcas in a choppy boat
Any ideas for easy ( portable, light, travel-friendly) solutions to stabilise a camera in a boat that’s moving on the sea ? Despite avoiding taking my full frame heavier DSLRs and lenses, I opted to take a Sony RX 10 mark IV. Very poor keep rate. Even when the boat slowed down or stopped it was rocking because of the waves. Really difficult to get tack sharp photos because of camera shake. A tripod would be very impractical (May not even be allowed). Ideas? Advice? Also is there a practical solution that works even for the heavier cameras and lenses?
Use a higher shutter speed.
Dennis
RahulKhosla wrote:
Any ideas for easy ( portable, light, travel-friendly) solutions to stabilise a camera in a boat that’s moving on the sea ? Despite avoiding taking my full frame heavier DSLRs and lenses, I opted to take a Sony RX 10 mark IV. Very poor keep rate. Even when the boat slowed down or stopped it was rocking because of the waves. Really difficult to get tack sharp photos because of camera shake. A tripod would be very impractical (May not even be allowed). Ideas? Advice? Also is there a practical solution that works even for the heavier cameras and lenses?
Any ideas for easy ( portable, light, travel-frien... (
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In those circumstances only one thing works - High Shutter Speed (depending on the size vessel and the waves it may call for Very High SS). Which means very good light or a very fast lens, or better yet - both. And your camera only counts as a fast lens when on the widest setting.
If that is the only camera you have with you then do long bursts and hope some of them come out sharp. Like frames taken at the peak or bottom of the rolling during that fraction of a second pause before reversing directions. Something that I know of no one fast enough to time on single frame so burst with the highest shutter speed the light and lens allows is your best bet.
Just accept that the "keeper" rate will be low and you will be using the delete command a lot.
Quite a long time ago, when either as guest or crew on boats of various kinds and sizes, I encountered a device about the size of a large orange that attached to the center pivot of binoculars and used a gyroscope to stabilize them - worked quite well. Might be something available still a good many decades later, possibly cheaper.
kymarto
Loc: Portland OR and Milan Italy
If the lens is not too heavy you can mount on a gimbal like the Ronin-S, but setting it up is a learning curve.
Hand hold with a fast speed. Do not rest your camera on any part of the structure, it will be vibrating.
dennis2146 wrote:
Use a higher shutter speed.
Dennis
Don’t know your camera but with mine the best for orcas from a small lurching boat was very fast shutter and shooting from the rear touchscreen rather than the shutter button. I don’t see any to stabilize with a normal tripod, but I did station myself in the corner where there were two railings to lean on. I tried all the CAF modes and they were better than the AF or Manual focus, but not as good as the touchscreen.
A tripod on a (rocking) boat is worthless and dangerous.
Faster shutter.
Get sea legs and act as a gimbal, pan with the subject.
The only thing that I can think of is a larger vessel which is more stable on water. Also, a larger boat allows more elbow room for DSLR and longer lens with VR.
The following is captured in the Kenai Fjord National Park with Nikon D500 and 200-500mm.
Thank you all for your responses. I really did try my best with a 2500 SS, as wide an aperture I could manage and really exercising those core muscles to pan in sync with the boat. The other point I realised from your responses is that no one suggested any “equipment” solution other than a Ronin..... It’s basically up to settings, balance, and good luck ! Thank you all once again.
Also, Dat Quach - that’s a beauty !
I went on an Orca watching trip in April 2017. I got some shots I am happy with, although not magazine quality. I was using a Nikon D5500 with the 55-200mm VR DX kit lens from my D60. Looking at the settings, (in ExifPilot) I was using ASA 200 and f5.7, and all the shutter speeds were 1/1000 to 1/1600.
I don't recall changing to aperture control, I think I just used the Program setting. It appears that the D5600 knew I was using a 200mm focal length and so optimized for fast shutter speeds.
Maybe it was the panning which was the problem? I just relied on the shutter speed to take care of motion, while I tried to keep the subject centered.
When shooting whales, other than trying to match shots to the peak or low of the boat's "bob" if time, I also shoot in Continuous (burst) mode finding I have more keepers.
Can you use a monopod? I used one in Alaska on a variety of boats.
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