Jerrin1
Loc: Wolverhampton, England
watersedge wrote:
is manual setup of shutter speed and apparture and using auto iso better than using apperature or shutter speed prority and iso auto
It works for me. The only time I do not use this set up is for flash photography.
It's whatever works for you is my opinion. I work only in manual and check my exposure in the Histogram and adjust accordingly. I am so use to manual from shooting in it, I don't like any other way.
billnikon
Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
watersedge wrote:
is manual setup of shutter speed and apparture and using auto iso better than using apperature or shutter speed prority and iso auto
It depends on what your shooting and the lighting conditions. For me, manual is what I have always used. Manual everything, including ISO.
I am a control freak, I like to control everything. If I could, I would direct the animals and birds I photograph. But alas, I cannot. But I can control my camera, so, I do.
In AUTO, you give up control to the camera, I am not willing to allow my inanimate object control over me.
But, in photography, like in everything else, we have FREE WILL, in other words, to each his own. I take great shots in manual, and until I do not I will continue to turn out award winning results.
So, to finally answer your question, IT ALL DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU WANT.
I like manual but if not, I use TAV on the Pentax which allows me to control shutter (Time) and aperature while the camera controls ISO. I just keep an eye on the ISO on the top screen. Is just that it is more likely that the ISO range will be acceptable that the shutter (controls motion) or aperture (DoF/Bokeh).
If this is worth it, I do not use AUTO ISO. I like to be in control even if I use an AUTO mode like Aperture Priority.
I know many photographers swear by the AUTO ISO but I am not one of them.
watersedge wrote:
is manual setup of shutter speed and apparture and using auto iso better than using apperature or shutter speed prority and iso auto
It depends I'm shooting conditions and what you want to accomplish. Auto ISO is good for changing lighting conditions and that is probably about the only time I'll use it. Otherwise I like to keep my ISO as low as possible.
watersedge wrote:
is manual setup of shutter speed and apparture and using auto iso better than using apperature or shutter speed prority and iso auto
Depends on your environment. If shooting outside in bright sunlight or shooting inside with adequate light, I shoot Shutter Priority, Auto ISO. If shooting inside with low light I shoot manual and set Shutter, Aperture and ISO. If I need to use flash I shoot Shutter Priority and set my ISO to get what I need.
I shoot manual all the time, seems to work for me. If it works for you then I would say stick with it. Shoot with whatever settings give you the best results and you are happy with the results.
While on the subject, I have a question for all of you. I have friends who use manual modes and P modes. But they always use Auto ISO. I don't, but maybe I'm missing something. Do many of you prefer Auto ISO?
watersedge wrote:
is manual setup of shutter speed and apparture and using auto iso better than using apperature or shutter speed prority and iso auto
I shoot action sports and nature photography. In these situations lighting changes rapidly and auto ISO allows me to adapt to the changes, capture the action shots, while keeping shutter and aperture stable.
Manual with Auto ISO works for me.
watersedge wrote:
is manual setup of shutter speed and apparture and using auto iso better than using apperature or shutter speed prority and iso auto
This was a good question and reading the answers helped me out. I do Street Photography so my subjects are on the move or might be sitting on a bench. As I myself might be walking down a street sometimes my my subjects might be in the sun or shade. To capture the moment on my Canon 80d I use Tv and auto iso. I do check my histogram to see if I need to make a adjustment but I do that before I take my shots. I have a tendency on a sunny day to dial down my exposure comp. I feel I can make a recovery in post processing. Believe me I am not a pro far cry from one all I am is someone who loves her camera and taking pictures.
elliott937 wrote:
While on the subject, I have a question for all of you. I have friends who use manual modes and P modes. But they always use Auto ISO. I don't, but maybe I'm missing something. Do many of you prefer Auto ISO?
I don't use P or S. I use A with Auto ISO. I use M with manual ISO.
watersedge wrote:
is manual setup of shutter speed and apparture and using auto iso better than using apperature or shutter speed prority and iso auto
Better is the wrong word. Manual vs either of the priories have their place. Personally I use a priority mode when the light is changing. It's a monstrous pain in the *ss tweaking settings when you want to concentrate composing.
watersedge wrote:
is manual setup of shutter speed and apparture and using auto iso better than using apperature or shutter speed prority and iso auto
I never use Auto-ISO; I generally leave my ISO at 200 and use either Full Manual, Aperture Priority, and Occasionally Shutter Priority. If that gives an inappropriate setting, I'll manually bump up the ISO. I watch what the camera is doing at all times, I don't just assume one setting produces another correct different setting.
TriX
Loc: Raleigh, NC
Since my camera is pretty tolerant of high ISOs, I typically use auto ISO EXCEPT with ETTL flash where I shoot full manual (I don’t like the fact that the combination picks ISOs that I would not chose). Since the type of shooting I typically do involves changing light, it’s just one thing less to think about and gives me more time to concentrate on the subject/composition. It’s a matter of priorities. First, the shutter speed has to be fast enough to freeze both the subject and camera movement - a blurry shot is useless. Second, the DOF has to be adequate to get everything in focus (if that’s the goal) or narrow enough to isolate the subject - out of focus shots are also useless. Finally (and of lowest priority TO ME) is noise. As I mentioned, my camera is pretty tolerant of high ISO, and if the shot is noisey, it can often be cleaned up in post. So - blurry-useless, out of focus-useless, noisey-useful and may be improved in post.
Finally, I’d just add that underexposing (and bring up in post) is counterproductive with most Canon bodies. Canons typically are NOT ISO invariant, so underexposing (you mentioned bringing down the EC on sunny days and fixing in post) will result in more unnecessary noise. You want to expose with the histogram as far to the right as possible (or when the “blinkies” just begin on the very brightest parts of the image) WITHOUT blowing out the highlights (which can’t be fixed in post). Experience with your camera and some testing will show you just where that point is with respect to the position of the histogram and when the “blinkies” begin.
If you want to reply, then
register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.