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What's the best camera and lens to take photos of flat artwork for under $1000?
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Jun 6, 2019 15:50:47   #
Kaib795 Loc: Maryland, USA
 
I like your copy rig. Though for me all I need is about half the size copy stand mainly because of my lack of space. If designed to pop the table screen area off, the whole rig could be parked off to a corner of the room. Nice proven plan design. I may do the same. Thank you

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Jun 6, 2019 15:54:38   #
RichLacey Loc: Atlanta
 
Quick comment-be aware that “true” macro lenses are corrected for flatness of field and not “regular lenses with a ‘macro’ setting.” Best bet for images of flat objects, but quite possibly out of your spending limit.

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Jun 6, 2019 15:54:41   #
RichLacey Loc: Atlanta
 
Quick comment-be aware that “true” macro lenses are corrected for flatness of field and not “regular lenses with a ‘macro’ setting.” Best bet for images of flat objects, but quite possibly out of your spending limit.

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Jun 6, 2019 16:00:39   #
chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
Kaib795 wrote:
I like your copy rig. Though for me all I need is about half the size copy stand mainly because of my lack of space. If designed to pop the table screen area off, the whole rig could be parked off to a corner of the room. Nice proven plan design. I may do the same. Thank you


...it breaks down easily!

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Jun 6, 2019 16:10:19   #
Photec
 
Hi NL, you have posted a few things I might suggest. 1) If the seller on Amazon "lost his contract" that is definately a sign he is NOT someone you want to deal with. 2) If you are a new Artist trying to sell copies of your Art Work, it might be better for you to enlist the services of a Professional Imaging service that can produce digital scans and professional prints for you initially, instead of spending a lot of $$ on new equipment and time learning how to do what they already know how to do. That will do a few things for you; a) test the market for your art; and b) produce income to buy new equipment.

If at some point you want to invest in a camera and lens, they will only get better each and every month, and the current prices for what is out there today will continue to fall. Not knowing what your current knowledge of photographic copy work is, I am going to assume you may have never done it. If not, I can assure you that it is not a simple point and shoot affair. It is a lot of fun, but doing it professionally is work.

The Nikon D850 is a fantastic camera for professionals, but I can not reccomend it as a first time camera. The learning curve for the D850 is very high. I think a Z7 might be easier to work with for your copy work since it is smaller and lighter. Yes, it is more expensive than the 850 now, but the price is sure to drop.

In addition to a camera and lens, there are also several other items you will need to research in order to make quality copies, such as tripods, lighting, copy stands, etc. I am not trying to disway you, only trying to give you an idea of what all is envolved. Good luck in your new business.

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Jun 6, 2019 17:20:04   #
cdayton
 
My wife is an artist and I have had the same issue in copying her work. When I wanted truly high quality pix, I found a professional who had a special setup with a large flat surface, an overhead camera mount and great lighting. In general, he stitched together multiple images to get a very high resolution image. I wouldn’t try to duplicate his setup unless I were doing 100s of images. For routine shots to post on her web site, I so the best I can with my D300 on a tripod and adjust in post.

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Jun 6, 2019 18:37:40   #
User ID
 
petego4it wrote:

Interesting and good advice. The surprise
to me is the apparent need for polarization...

Couldn't live without my PLs
... and I NEVER use them to
make Hallmark Blue skies. A
polarized lens combined with
polarized lights is SOP.

.

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Jun 6, 2019 18:41:11   #
User ID
 
`

Peterfiore wrote:

I use a panasonic G9 with pixel shift, 80MP
image is outstanding for my needs. ..........


IIRC my G9 body alone was waaaaay
over budget per the OP :-(

.

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Jun 6, 2019 18:44:49   #
chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
User ID wrote:
Couldn't live without my PLs
... and I NEVER use them to
make Hallmark Blue skies. A
polarized lens combined with
polarized lights is SOP.

.


...I don't need polarization. Not the way I've set things up. <shrug> If reflections/glare are a problem, maybe so...otherwise why?

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Jun 6, 2019 20:22:40   #
prembetsy
 
Use a flat field lens... they can be had for 4x5, 2 1/4, 35mm

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Jun 6, 2019 20:32:42   #
Dennis833 Loc: Australia
 
nl wrote:
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to photograph and then sell copies and/or gyclees of them online. I'm not sure what's out there, or which direction to go. Some paintings are watercolor, some acrylic, and some pastel (all flat). They range in size from 6" x 10", upwards to 36" x 72". Some of the smaller ones I might have scanned. I'm not sure if scanning the large ones would be more cost effective in the long run than taking my own photos. With my own photos, at least I have the option of some minor editing in photoshop. The mid size paintings average 16" x 20" to 28" x 40". I want to offer enlargements up to 36" x 60" without distortion. I may print some on metal or glass as well.
I saw a Sony Alpha SLT-a99ii on Amazon for sale for $500. I thought the 42 mp's might do a better job although the files would be very large, but I questioned the price as all the other 42mp's sell for 5x's more. His offer on Amazon has since been taken down (he claimed his contract ran out), and to order one has to contact him instead of Amazon. Sounded a little shady to me. The other camera that sounded good is a Nikon D850, but it's also out of my price range.
Nonetheless, any advice on what camera to buy, and what lens is appropriate for what I need to do for under $1,000, is welcome. Thanks, NL
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to... (show quote)


I've been copying art for many years and my son is an artist. I would recommend a Sony A6000 camera with a Sigma 60mm E mount lens. But if you can manage a manual lens then you could use any good 50mm legacy lens with a cheap eBay adaptor. You can start out shooting in an open garage, under a deck or only on cloudy days. Always shoot on auto white balance and include a grey card in the corner. In Photoshop open the curves palette and select the centre eye dropper and click on the grey card to balance the colour.

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Jun 6, 2019 20:41:35   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
User ID wrote:
You can get an m43 body that does 50 or even 80MP
of stationary subjects ... such as flat art ... altho you
only pay for a 16 or 20MP sensor/camera.

M43 is the smallest "professional" sensor size but for
the project you describe, there is truly zero benefit in
using a larger sensor. The benefit of the smaller size
is in price ... of both cameras and lenses :-) Bigger
stuff costs more and for this project has no purpose.
Shop well and m43 will hold close to your budget !

You should use a flat field lens [jargon, sorry, google
has details/definition] either a native [fully coupled]
m43 lens, or if you know traditional photography an
adapted legacy macro is equally useful.

==============================

You will probably need to polarize both the lights
and the camera, so avoid hot lights as they slowly
destroy their polarizer sheets. M43 cameras do not
need circular polarizers for the lens, but finding a
linear polarizer these days takes some diligence :-(

You absolutely need a good tripod.

BTW, if you intend to photo any sculpture, certain
m43 cameras do in-camera Focus Stacking. Sorry,
more jargon, more google.

.
You can get an m43 body that does 50 or even 80MP ... (show quote)


You can do the super resolution thing with ANY camera, technically no lens is "flat field", Linear polarizers are fine with mirrorless cameras, but not with DSLRs - and a google search will yield many sources for photographic linear polarizers, you don't need in-camera focus stacking, you can get automated stacking with Helicon Focus, DSLR Dashboard, CamRanger and other remote/camera automation software applications, and a 16x20 made from an M4/3 camera is easy to distinguish from a 16x20 made from any larger sensor camera.

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Jun 6, 2019 20:55:29   #
Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
 
nl wrote:
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to photograph and then sell copies and/or gyclees of them online. I'm not sure what's out there, or which direction to go. Some paintings are watercolor, some acrylic, and some pastel (all flat). They range in size from 6" x 10", upwards to 36" x 72". Some of the smaller ones I might have scanned. I'm not sure if scanning the large ones would be more cost effective in the long run than taking my own photos. With my own photos, at least I have the option of some minor editing in photoshop. The mid size paintings average 16" x 20" to 28" x 40". I want to offer enlargements up to 36" x 60" without distortion. I may print some on metal or glass as well.
I saw a Sony Alpha SLT-a99ii on Amazon for sale for $500. I thought the 42 mp's might do a better job although the files would be very large, but I questioned the price as all the other 42mp's sell for 5x's more. His offer on Amazon has since been taken down (he claimed his contract ran out), and to order one has to contact him instead of Amazon. Sounded a little shady to me. The other camera that sounded good is a Nikon D850, but it's also out of my price range.
Nonetheless, any advice on what camera to buy, and what lens is appropriate for what I need to do for under $1,000, is welcome. Thanks, NL
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to... (show quote)


I'd suggest a 36 mp D800, which you can get for around $800. A lens with a flat field is not necessary, as long as it is not a zoom or an ultra wide lens, which can suffer from complex or "Moustache" distortion. A 50mm F1.8 G will provide very little distortion, less than .3 stop difference between center and corner illumination, and very low chromatic aberration, and it costs only $175 new and around $90 used. The key is to find a lens that has good resolution across the field, not just in the center. Barrel distortion, vignetting, etc is usually handled with a lens profile. Shoot raw for maximum detail capture, and use a ColorChecker Passport for absolutely neutral color and white balance.

If you light your subjects with diffused speedlights, you don't need an expensive tripod. Polarized light and camera is a great suggestion, and pretty much anything EL Shapiro recommended. He is the real deal, and his advice is golden.

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Jun 7, 2019 01:33:13   #
Bill P
 
chasgroh wrote:
...I don't need polarization. Not the way I've set things up. <shrug> If reflections/glare are a problem, maybe so...otherwise why?


No chance of bad reflection things like specular highlights. Also better and more accurate color. But I guess you don't want to do it right, just close enough.

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Jun 7, 2019 02:10:19   #
chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
Bill P wrote:
No chance of bad reflection things like specular highlights. Also better and more accurate color. But I guess you don't want to do it right, just close enough.


...well, you're right on the close enough score. If I have to print up a book or something, that's another matter, but I show online and out of a pad or phone to folks and we aren't pixel peeping...so far everything I do needs to be seen in person. It is what it is, and I'll do what's necessary to provide excellent product to the end customer. Bank on that. YMMV.

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