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What's the best camera and lens to take photos of flat artwork for under $1000?
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Jun 6, 2019 06:19:24   #
billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont
 
nl wrote:
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to photograph and then sell copies and/or gyclees of them online. I'm not sure what's out there, or which direction to go. Some paintings are watercolor, some acrylic, and some pastel (all flat). They range in size from 6" x 10", upwards to 36" x 72". Some of the smaller ones I might have scanned. I'm not sure if scanning the large ones would be more cost effective in the long run than taking my own photos. With my own photos, at least I have the option of some minor editing in photoshop. The mid size paintings average 16" x 20" to 28" x 40". I want to offer enlargements up to 36" x 60" without distortion. I may print some on metal or glass as well.
I saw a Sony Alpha SLT-a99ii on Amazon for sale for $500. I thought the 42 mp's might do a better job although the files would be very large, but I questioned the price as all the other 42mp's sell for 5x's more. His offer on Amazon has since been taken down (he claimed his contract ran out), and to order one has to contact him instead of Amazon. Sounded a little shady to me. The other camera that sounded good is a Nikon D850, but it's also out of my price range.
Nonetheless, any advice on what camera to buy, and what lens is appropriate for what I need to do for under $1,000, is welcome. Thanks, NL
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to... (show quote)


Nikon D7000 and a Nikon 60 mm 2.8 D micro lens.
$299.00 for the D7000
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-D7000-16-2MP-DSLR-Camera-body-two-batteries-and-two-SD-cards-Only-3k-click/143283791675?hash=item215c61273b:g:imcAAOSwCtVc-JrL:sc:USPSPriority!33472!US!-1

About $200.00 for the Nikon 60mm 2.8 D lens
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nikon-60mm-f-2-8D-AF-Micro-Nikkor-Lens/123790025117?hash=item1cd275e19d:g:aAwAAOSwZx5c8rij

So, for about $500.00 your good to go.

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 06:20:05   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
nl wrote:
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to photograph and then sell copies and/or gyclees of them online. I'm not sure what's out there, or which direction to go. Some paintings are watercolor, some acrylic, and some pastel (all flat). They range in size from 6" x 10", upwards to 36" x 72". Some of the smaller ones I might have scanned. I'm not sure if scanning the large ones would be more cost effective in the long run than taking my own photos. With my own photos, at least I have the option of some minor editing in photoshop. The mid size paintings average 16" x 20" to 28" x 40". I want to offer enlargements up to 36" x 60" without distortion. I may print some on metal or glass as well.
I saw a Sony Alpha SLT-a99ii on Amazon for sale for $500. I thought the 42 mp's might do a better job although the files would be very large, but I questioned the price as all the other 42mp's sell for 5x's more. His offer on Amazon has since been taken down (he claimed his contract ran out), and to order one has to contact him instead of Amazon. Sounded a little shady to me. The other camera that sounded good is a Nikon D850, but it's also out of my price range.
Nonetheless, any advice on what camera to buy, and what lens is appropriate for what I need to do for under $1,000, is welcome. Thanks, NL
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to... (show quote)


I agree with the lighting and that takes practice and some basic, at least, knowledge of how to do it.
Google tutorial on this subject.
Camera, 24 mp should do well.
Lens, I would use a good 50mm macro on FF or 35mm on APSC.
Then get lighting, tripod etc. As pointed out here as well.

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 06:53:00   #
petego4it Loc: NY
 
Interesting and good advice. The surprise to me is the apparent need for polarization...

Reply
 
 
Jun 6, 2019 07:24:49   #
Peterfiore Loc: Where DR goes south
 
What ever camera you buy make sure you get a macro lens. Marco lenses are flat field, they don't distort the image plane of focus. Images will be squared. Provided you square the camera to the painting. I am an artist and been doing this since the beginning of my career in 1977.
Lighting is important and custom balance is critical...so is a decent tripod.. There is much to learn, take your time to learn...It will make life much easier.

Peter

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 07:40:30   #
Low Budget Dave
 
You are correct not to buy anything off Amazon where the person asks you to respond to an e-mail instead of to the Amazon account. This is a scam where the person takes your money and sends you a different camera.

If you complain to the vendor that listed the product for sale, you will find that the vendor's account was hacked, and that you were never dealing with that vendor at all.

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 07:58:26   #
Ravi Neelakantan
 
nl wrote:
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to photograph and then sell copies and/or gyclees of them online. I'm not sure what's out there, or which direction to go. Some paintings are watercolor, some acrylic, and some pastel (all flat). They range in size from 6" x 10", upwards to 36" x 72". Some of the smaller ones I might have scanned. I'm not sure if scanning the large ones would be more cost effective in the long run than taking my own photos. With my own photos, at least I have the option of some minor editing in photoshop. The mid size paintings average 16" x 20" to 28" x 40". I want to offer enlargements up to 36" x 60" without distortion. I may print some on metal or glass as well.
I saw a Sony Alpha SLT-a99ii on Amazon for sale for $500. I thought the 42 mp's might do a better job although the files would be very large, but I questioned the price as all the other 42mp's sell for 5x's more. His offer on Amazon has since been taken down (he claimed his contract ran out), and to order one has to contact him instead of Amazon. Sounded a little shady to me. The other camera that sounded good is a Nikon D850, but it's also out of my price range.
Nonetheless, any advice on what camera to buy, and what lens is appropriate for what I need to do for under $1,000, is welcome. Thanks, NL
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to... (show quote)


One of my friends who is an artist used to take a High resolution scan on a professional Scanner to get a softcopy of his paintings...and the prints of the Highres scan image were awesome ...an exact replica of the original.

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Jun 6, 2019 08:18:10   #
Tomcat5133 Loc: Gladwyne PA
 
Well this is not easy. I have a pdf "how to photograph art" but this site does not attach pdf's ?
I have a copy stand for my business years ago. and shot straight down with a post that could
ride the camera higher or lower. And it had 4 light attached. I think your project is more difficult.
You need a lens that has the least distortion. The Sony a7R II 42mpl an older full frame mirrorless
is selling new 1498 maybe their are some that are used. I only mention this because I had many
Sony mirrorless cameras. Some think the Canon has more real colors. Their science is good.
We used Nikons years ago because we had them.
Copying art etc can be very frustrating. The 35mm format was not really made for this.
These are the copy stands we used remember the place to put the art has to be big enough
to fit your biggest painting. I shot art on a wall with a tripod very hard to frame but pushing
tripod around and lens with distortion. So don't know if this was helpful. The setup is more
important than the camera. Most good cameras I would prefer a full frame can shoot this. Good luck



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Jun 6, 2019 08:18:45   #
MikeMck Loc: Southern Maryland on the Bay
 
nl wrote:
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to photograph and then sell copies and/or gyclees of them online. I'm not sure what's out there, or which direction to go. Some paintings are watercolor, some acrylic, and some pastel (all flat). They range in size from 6" x 10", upwards to 36" x 72". Some of the smaller ones I might have scanned. I'm not sure if scanning the large ones would be more cost effective in the long run than taking my own photos. With my own photos, at least I have the option of some minor editing in photoshop. The mid size paintings average 16" x 20" to 28" x 40". I want to offer enlargements up to 36" x 60" without distortion. I may print some on metal or glass as well.
I saw a Sony Alpha SLT-a99ii on Amazon for sale for $500. I thought the 42 mp's might do a better job although the files would be very large, but I questioned the price as all the other 42mp's sell for 5x's more. His offer on Amazon has since been taken down (he claimed his contract ran out), and to order one has to contact him instead of Amazon. Sounded a little shady to me. The other camera that sounded good is a Nikon D850, but it's also out of my price range.
Nonetheless, any advice on what camera to buy, and what lens is appropriate for what I need to do for under $1,000, is welcome. Thanks, NL
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to... (show quote)


Sometimes a simple solution is best. If it were me, I would look for a used Sony RX10 Model III. KEH and
Roberts had them for less than $1,000. The camera has 20 MPS and a 2.8 lens with a 1” sensor. The camera is exceptional in low light and I doubt you would need a flash, at least not a direct flash. Good luck, send us an image.

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 08:24:16   #
Low Budget Dave
 
User ID wrote:
You can get an m43 body that does 50 or even 80MP
of stationary subjects ... such as flat art ... altho you
only pay for a 16 or 20MP sensor/camera.


.


"User ID" made a great point here. The Olympus OMD EM5 mk ii is the cheapest camera I know of that offers high-resolution mode. It takes two 20 MP images that are shifted by less than a pixel, and makes a composite 40mp image. The color profile of the Olympus is excellent, and the resulting files are easier to work with than you might think.

Although the camera itself is about $700, you will be able to save some money on lenses, because good MFT macro lenses are slightly less expensive than ASPC, and way less expensive than full frame. You can also adapt a manual lens, because you don't need the fast autofocus.

You can save some money on lighting by buying it used, or rigging up your own.

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Jun 6, 2019 08:46:36   #
Peterfiore Loc: Where DR goes south
 
I use a panasonic G9 with pixel shift, 80MP image is outstanding for my needs. For large paintings I stitch 2,3 or up to 6 images. Hugh file with plenty of detail for large reproduction. Custom white balance is a must.

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 08:56:57   #
Toment Loc: FL, IL
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
A $1,000 limit may be a tall order for a decent copy setup. You budge, beside a good camera body and lens has to include some specific lighting requirements, a good quality polarizing filter and some polarizing filter for 2 light sources.

You don't need highly specialized camera/lens gear for short runs of prints for casual sales but if you get into high volume lithographic production, the standards and accompanying requirements may entail higher quality and thereby calling for far more costly equipment.


I would suggest a full frame body and a macro lens in either a 60mm or 100mm focal length. These lenses deliver good quality at closer and moderately close distances so these will accommodate the size range you specified.

Lighting is extremely important for even exposure, control of any glare or reflection that could result from the paints, varnishes or other finishes that you apply to your paintings. Cross-polarized lighting is important not only for reflection or glare control but to obtain proper contrast and color saturation.

You can probably use LED lighting units or electronic flash. LEDs are probably less expensive and you can see exactly what you are doing- flash gear with modeling lamps would be more costly.

You can make a fixed setup with 2 lights, each placed at 45 degrees to the camera/subject axis. Each light is equipped with a plastic polarizing screen oriented according to the markings provided on the cardboard frames that retain the filters. A good optical glass CPL filter is placed on the lens. As you rotate the filter you will see the negation of glare and the increase in color saturation. You can meter the light at all 4 corners of each painting to ensure that it is even and make a few bracketed exposure of each painting.

If you create palette knife or bas relief work, you can use only one of the lights to retain the surface texture- that is called interpretative copying.

As others have alluded to, you will need some gray cards and color checking targets to keep things calibrated.


You can research the used market for the camera and lens gear. A crop-sensor can work but if you equip yourself with a better body, this may be more economical going forward. I'm sure you can fie a good used macro lens. Check with B&H, KEH, Adorama and some of the other reputable dealers.

In my commercial business, I do quite a bit of art reproduction for artists, galleries, dealers, museums, and folks who assess, authenticate and evaluate artwork. The aforementioned setup it the system I use. It may seem very complex but once you have it set up, even out the lighting and standardize your and exposure, it becomes easy and routine to record all of you work as you produce it.

Theses system works well on works of various mediums- oils, acrylics, watercolors, tempera, pen and ink, pencil sketches, etchings, etc.

I will attach a basic lighting diagram, a shot of the polarizing screen that is employed over the lights and a typical painting I have copied. This one is about 60x80 inches, hanging in a museum and could not be removed from the frame. The diagram of the copy stand and a large format camera is just to give you a basic idea of the setup. A digital camera mounted on a sturdy tripod and a mechanism to hold your paintings on the wall will work well- just keep the camera exactly parallel to the wall, level, and centered to he painting.

I wish I had better news for your budgetary questions. I have used Nikon and Canon gear for this kind of work. There are other good brands as well but perhaps it will be more likely to find some good used gear in theses makes. The polarized lighting filter material is available from Roscoe photographic and stages lighting suppliers (Google them for a dealer near you). Excellent CPL filters are made by Hoya, Zeiss, and B+W.
A $1,000 limit may be a tall order for a decent co... (show quote)


Excellent
Thanks for teaching all of us, indeed a blessing

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Jun 6, 2019 10:20:08   #
JeffDavidson Loc: Originally Detroit Now Los Angeles
 
The 60mm Nikon Macro lens is great for 2D flat work.

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 10:21:30   #
larryepage Loc: North Texas area
 
nl wrote:
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to photograph and then sell copies and/or gyclees of them online. I'm not sure what's out there, or which direction to go. Some paintings are watercolor, some acrylic, and some pastel (all flat). They range in size from 6" x 10", upwards to 36" x 72". Some of the smaller ones I might have scanned. I'm not sure if scanning the large ones would be more cost effective in the long run than taking my own photos. With my own photos, at least I have the option of some minor editing in photoshop. The mid size paintings average 16" x 20" to 28" x 40". I want to offer enlargements up to 36" x 60" without distortion. I may print some on metal or glass as well.
I saw a Sony Alpha SLT-a99ii on Amazon for sale for $500. I thought the 42 mp's might do a better job although the files would be very large, but I questioned the price as all the other 42mp's sell for 5x's more. His offer on Amazon has since been taken down (he claimed his contract ran out), and to order one has to contact him instead of Amazon. Sounded a little shady to me. The other camera that sounded good is a Nikon D850, but it's also out of my price range.
Nonetheless, any advice on what camera to buy, and what lens is appropriate for what I need to do for under $1,000, is welcome. Thanks, NL
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to... (show quote)

You have received a lot of advice here...some of it good. I especially commend you to the response from E.L. Shapiro. He touches on almost every aspect of what will be necessary to make good copies. He is correct with his concerns around budget. If you were intending to make "casual" copies of your work, you could readily do so within your $1,000 budget. High quality copies for resale as art in their own right are going to require a bit more capable equipment and more care on your part.

I have done this sort of thing for myself and others over the past 30 years or so, using both film and digital media, and experience has taught me quite a bit. Where I disagree with a number of responders is with their statement that almost any camera and lens will do the job for you. In fact, your choice of lens is the most critical part of the equation. I am most familiar with Nikon equipment, so I will limit my specific responses to that line.

You mention that you want to copy a wide range of sizes. The smaller ones are going to be the most demanding, and will require a lens with a very flat field of focus. (Most lenses focus on a spherical set of points which are all equidistant from the center of the lens, like the inside surface of a globe.) Nikon offers several choices of Micro/Copy lenses, but the one that has the flattest focus field is the current 60mm f2.8, which I would recommend as the core of your copy system. This focal length will also allow you to copy the larger art without having to back so far away that your camera ends up in the next room from your art.

For lighting, there are many choices. The school where I substitute frequently uses two photo-grade compact fluorescent (CFL) lights bounced off of white umbrellas placed at approximately 45 degrees from the art. The advantages are that these lights are bright and have well-defined color temperatures. The disadvantage is that all fluorescent lamps produce light that is not completely "continuous." This could result in some problems in color reproduction that are not fully correctable, although we have not encountered that yet at school. The second is LED panels. Affordable panels are not going to be as bright as the CFLs, but they also have a well-defined color temperature, and their light is more continuous. I have not used cross-polarized lighting as E. L. suggests, but managed reflections and glare in other ways. If you do decide to go that direction, you will need to choose an approach that provides a generous amount of light, since the cross polarization will reduce the effective lighting level by several f-stops.

As far as camera choices, there are a good many that will work. But if you want to produce high quality 36x60 prints, you will want to have a camera with respectable resolution. If you don't want to do a lot of post processing, you will want a camera that can capture TIFF images. The suggestion of finding a nice used Nikon D810 is a good one. A ton of lightly used ones were dumped by their owners when the D850 became available. The D810 also has controls that will allow you to make necessary adjustments without having to fiddle with the menu system most of the time.

Good luck as you move forward here. Please let us know what you decide and how it works out.

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 10:34:05   #
Ched49 Loc: Pittsburgh, Pa.
 
nl wrote:
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to photograph and then sell copies and/or gyclees of them online. I'm not sure what's out there, or which direction to go. Some paintings are watercolor, some acrylic, and some pastel (all flat). They range in size from 6" x 10", upwards to 36" x 72". Some of the smaller ones I might have scanned. I'm not sure if scanning the large ones would be more cost effective in the long run than taking my own photos. With my own photos, at least I have the option of some minor editing in photoshop. The mid size paintings average 16" x 20" to 28" x 40". I want to offer enlargements up to 36" x 60" without distortion. I may print some on metal or glass as well.
I saw a Sony Alpha SLT-a99ii on Amazon for sale for $500. I thought the 42 mp's might do a better job although the files would be very large, but I questioned the price as all the other 42mp's sell for 5x's more. His offer on Amazon has since been taken down (he claimed his contract ran out), and to order one has to contact him instead of Amazon. Sounded a little shady to me. The other camera that sounded good is a Nikon D850, but it's also out of my price range.
Nonetheless, any advice on what camera to buy, and what lens is appropriate for what I need to do for under $1,000, is welcome. Thanks, NL
I am a new artist with a dozen paintings I wish to... (show quote)
If you don't wish to get into photography, any entry level or dedicated camera will do. Most if not all entry level dslr's have 24mp which is more than enough for a good print. Look online, you can get a good used camera for under $500.00. Good luck.

Reply
Jun 6, 2019 11:47:37   #
fetzler Loc: North West PA
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
A $1,000 limit may be a tall order for a decent copy setup. You budge, beside a good camera body and lens has to include some specific lighting requirements, a good quality polarizing filter and some polarizing filter for 2 light sources.

You don't need highly specialized camera/lens gear for short runs of prints for casual sales but if you get into high volume lithographic production, the standards and accompanying requirements may entail higher quality and thereby calling for far more costly equipment.


I would suggest a full frame body and a macro lens in either a 60mm or 100mm focal length. These lenses deliver good quality at closer and moderately close distances so these will accommodate the size range you specified.

Lighting is extremely important for even exposure, control of any glare or reflection that could result from the paints, varnishes or other finishes that you apply to your paintings. Cross-polarized lighting is important not only for reflection or glare control but to obtain proper contrast and color saturation.

You can probably use LED lighting units or electronic flash. LEDs are probably less expensive and you can see exactly what you are doing- flash gear with modeling lamps would be more costly.

You can make a fixed setup with 2 lights, each placed at 45 degrees to the camera/subject axis. Each light is equipped with a plastic polarizing screen oriented according to the markings provided on the cardboard frames that retain the filters. A good optical glass CPL filter is placed on the lens. As you rotate the filter you will see the negation of glare and the increase in color saturation. You can meter the light at all 4 corners of each painting to ensure that it is even and make a few bracketed exposure of each painting.

If you create palette knife or bas relief work, you can use only one of the lights to retain the surface texture- that is called interpretative copying.

As others have alluded to, you will need some gray cards and color checking targets to keep things calibrated.


You can research the used market for the camera and lens gear. A crop-sensor can work but if you equip yourself with a better body, this may be more economical going forward. I'm sure you can fie a good used macro lens. Check with B&H, KEH, Adorama and some of the other reputable dealers.

In my commercial business, I do quite a bit of art reproduction for artists, galleries, dealers, museums, and folks who assess, authenticate and evaluate artwork. The aforementioned setup it the system I use. It may seem very complex but once you have it set up, even out the lighting and standardize your and exposure, it becomes easy and routine to record all of you work as you produce it.

Theses system works well on works of various mediums- oils, acrylics, watercolors, tempera, pen and ink, pencil sketches, etchings, etc.

I will attach a basic lighting diagram, a shot of the polarizing screen that is employed over the lights and a typical painting I have copied. This one is about 60x80 inches, hanging in a museum and could not be removed from the frame. The diagram of the copy stand and a large format camera is just to give you a basic idea of the setup. A digital camera mounted on a sturdy tripod and a mechanism to hold your paintings on the wall will work well- just keep the camera exactly parallel to the wall, level, and centered to he painting.

I wish I had better news for your budgetary questions. I have used Nikon and Canon gear for this kind of work. There are other good brands as well but perhaps it will be more likely to find some good used gear in theses makes. The polarized lighting filter material is available from Roscoe photographic and stages lighting suppliers (Google them for a dealer near you). Excellent CPL filters are made by Hoya, Zeiss, and B+W.
A $1,000 limit may be a tall order for a decent co... (show quote)


E. L Shapiro has good advice good advice for lighting.

I have copied paintings. It is a challenge.

1.You need to have the sensor plane exactly parallel to the plane of the painting. I have used a copy stand for smaller works and an easel that would allow the painting to hang vertically.

2. Have your monitor and printer color calibrated. Also use a color checker.

3. I would use continuous lighting of good color quality. Although the lights are super hot photographic incandescent lights are the gold standard for color quality. LED will, however, usually be fine.

4. Use a macro lens. These have a flat field - Very little barrel or pincushion distortion. A lot of macro photographers like long focal lengths. You may want some of the shorter focal length particularly if the paintings are large or your room is small. In FF focal lengths 50 -100mm will be were you want to be. Nikon has a variety of focal lengths for macro lenses. The 40mm (DX) and 60mm (for DX and FX) might be good choices.

5. Consider how large you need make your reproductions - the standard will be 300 dpi where works will be looked at closely. If the work will be seen only at a distance you can use less than this. ( perhaps as low as 100 dpi) This will determine how many megapixels you need.

6. Should your need more than 20 to 24 mp. You have some further choices. These are
a. purchase a 40 -50mp camera ($$$)
b. use stitching software - be sure the software will allow the use of images where the camera or image moves parallel to the sensor plane.
c. consider using an Olympus camera that has the high resolution mode (80MP raw). This mode requires a stationary subject. My Pen F does this. The 30 and 60mm m.zuiko macro lenses are excellent.

7. if you use a high megapixel camera building vibrations may be an issue. Use a heavy tripod on the ground floor, if possible.

This will be difficult to do on your budget. You may be able to get a used PenF and used 30mm m.zuiko for $1000. (Another 20MP Olympus could be OK too if you can get it cheap enough.)

Consider renting to see if you like a setup before buying.

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