robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

I finally took time to pull up the exif. Nikon D7000 at 1/1000, f/6.3 so a shallow depth of field with a small subject in a big scene, focus was probably not on the bird. But mostly what I see is a lot of camera movement. Were you by any chance in a boat (a tripod might actually make it worse, moves with the boat) or standing and hand holding after walking and so not real steady?

As stated, it takes practice. Closer, learn all the tricks to steady the camera etc etc. You have a good camera and lens. It may need to be calibrated for focus. But if you handhold you might try a pistol grip on the tripod collar or go to a monopod. You can use the collapsed monopod as a long pistol grip and when you can extend it to a steady surface (land etc, not a boat) it will eliminate a lot of the camera motion.

qball

I love taking bird shots, I have found for me using back button focus with center point focus and 3d tracking gives me best result for birds in flight.

Hamltnblue Loc: Springfield PA

Also remember when using digital, film is cheap.
If on a moving boat, car etc, I like to do a burst shoot. One is bound to be sharp.

Einreb92 Loc: Philadelphia

You don’t indicate which version of the Tamron you have. My experience differs from the opinion stated by someone earlier. If you look at my bird and flower shots, you will see that lens (if v2) is very capable of taking sharp shots of wildlife. While I sometimes manage to get crisp shots wide open, f8 is the sweet spot. Of course, there is much more to taking good shots with a long lens than one might think. I had to learn different techniques, in order to up my keeper rate. Backcountry has good videos on long-lens usage that helped me tremendously. Should you find yourself committing to tripod use, the company states image stabilizer should be turned off. I also sent my lens and body (D7200) to Tamron and they calibrated them to be as close as possible to optimal. Good luck and don’t get discouraged.

Einreb92 Loc: Philadelphia

Shot this guy today with the Tammy.

(Download)

Strodav Loc: Houston, Tx

I have posted this story before. I was not happy at all with my Tamron 150-600mm f5-6.3 G2 out of the box. Even sent it back to Tamron with my D7200 to calibrate them together. Still not sharp when it came back. Ended up learning how to use the Tap-In and tuned the lens, which is not trivial. I am now very happy with it. You may want to test your camera and lens for sharpness at the distances and zoom factors you shoot at.

Given that, I don't see an AF problem in the two shots you provided. Your first shot looks fine and the 2nd shot looks like camera shake affecting the shot. Others have shared great tips like using a tripod and keeping the shutter speed up to get sharp results.

This shot was taken at 600mm, ISO 500, f6.3, 1/1000 sec D500, Tamron 150-600mm f5-6.3 G2. You lens is quite capable of this level of sharpness.

(Download)

via the lens Loc: Northern California, near Yosemite NP

Ron,

Photographing wildlife can be a challenge. I like wildlife and I photograph this subject as often as I can. You can see my work on my website. I'd say you need to focus in a lot closer and I know how difficult that can be at times. I see that you used 210mm and 460mm but you could have gone in much closer. This is harder with flying shots so you eventually learn to judge where the bird or animal will be. It pays to watch the behavior of the animal if possible. You will not always get the shot you want. Also, I would use a higher shutter speed for motion shots although "motion" does depend on how fast the animal is moving; this is something you learn over time. If the animal is stationary, then 1/500 or 1/1000 is fine (they are seldom completely stationary). Your aperture is ok, I usually shoot at f/5.6. What is needed with photographing wildlife in action is a very steady hand and a stable body, even when using the tripod. Learn to brace yourself and your equipment. You can practice this. I use the tripod at times but often shoot without it, depending on the circumstance. It takes practice to become good at motion shots and wildlife shots. The other thing about motion shots is to take fast shots in succession and don't stop until the action is completely over, this gives you choice. A camera with a fast buffer really helps as do fast cards. Get Steve Perry's book, "Secrets to Stunning Wildlife Photography" and that should help you a lot. Below is an example of an egret that was fishing for food. I kept my lens on it, braced on a car window, as it traveled the ditch and simply shot multiple shots when it appeared that it was going to dive for something. I would move the car along the ditch, turn off the key, and then set myself up again to shoot, all being done very quickly. Note that the animal takes up most of the image since it is the subject. Practice and practice again and you will improve.

whlsdn Loc: Colorado

Gotta love your example photo, IDguy!

whlsdn Loc: Colorado

Awesome squirrel, rdubreuil!

whlsdn Loc: Colorado

Great questions, RedBaron4730. I'm soaking up all these great answers too. I've been working on some of the same kind of issues. Getting a little better, I think, with the help of advice like you're seeing here.

(Download)

whlsdn Loc: Colorado

Spectacular shot, via the lens!!

Alby144 Loc: Northern Nevada

I shot a D7000 for a couple of years, try turning your focus points to 3D Tracking and shoot in Continuous Mode. Use a tripod whenever you can.

PPP Loc: Florence

imagemeister is correct! Get Closer D810 200-500 f5.6

(Download)