RedBaron4730

Requesting suggestions on how to get more detail and sharper pictures of wildlife. Above are two pictures; Gull and Blue Heron.
Both pictures were taken with a Tamron 150-600.
Setting on the Gull was
f6.3
1/1600
ISO: 400 at about 40 feet away with a focal length of 210mm

and the Blue Heron was set at
f6.3
1/1000
ISO: 640 at about 80 feet away with a focal length of 460mm.

Using Photoshop CS6 to make the water / Sky a bit blue, but other than that - very little modifications.

But most of my wildlife pictures do not have the detail I see in many other wildlife pictures. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciative.
Ron

(Download)

Fotoartist Loc: Detroit, Michigan

Sharpening techniques, in your case High Pass sharpening.

Manglesphoto Loc: 70 miles south of St.Louis

My suggestion is to use a lower ISO and a tripod also make sure the focus in on the subject. The first image is not downloadable .
I see nothing in focus in the second image.

davesit Loc: Lansing, New York

Assuming your lens is a VC lens and the vibration control is on, the second picture looks like it's caused by excessive shaking, since I can't find anywhere in the picture that is in focus and everything looks blurred. With VC on and at 1/1000 sec. shutter speed, you should be able to take a good shot even hand-held. If you took it using a tripod, a lot of folks turn off the VC (or VR in Nikon lenses). BTW, which camera are you using?

RedBaron4730

Thank you for your reply Manglesphoto - I was on a cruise such that it was and a tripod was not an option though I agree with you, it may have helped. FYI - I do recall having the VR on as I normally do on my Nikon D7000 but obviously it was not adequate.

RedBaron4730

Thank you for your reply Devesit. I do recall having the VR set to on, on my Nikon D7000 however, I was on a cruise on a 'house boat' with way to many people around to set up a tripod. I do agree, a tripod may have helped. But I still do not get a good clean detail picture very often unless I am right on top of the subject.
And as you are aware - wildlife does not take directions very well. Again, thanks for you suggestion.

BassmanBruce Loc: Middle of the Mitten

Try a visit here:
https://backcountrygallery.com/

Consider keeping the best you get now so you can compare future progress with today’s results.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

GET CLOSER

robertjerl Loc: Corona, California

Repeat 10x "get closer"!

1st lesson to be learned when using a long tele lens. It lets you fill the frame easier, it doesn't let you take close ups from the next county. You still need "foot zoom" or what ever form of transport you and your camera are using.

I have owned and used Canon 100-400L mark 1 & 2 with 1.4x III, also Tamron 150-600 G1 & G2. My first long lens was the G1 and I had to learn that lesson.

IDguy Loc: Idaho

Set your release to only shoot when focus is achieved.

Set your camera on high speed multiple images and shoot at least 5 and pick out the sharpest.

I have gone to using M mode and auto ISO most of the time with animals. And spot metering.

For flying birds and long lens might consider SS of 1/2000. Trade off of noise vs motion blur.

Example w Z6 and Nikon 200-500 cropped

(Download)

LWW Loc: Banana Republic of America

VR will do nothing for subject movement.

Try continuous AF and f8 aperture priority and at least 1/1K shutter speed ... 2K is even better ... and auto ISO.

Also, old school hand holding skills will do wonders.

As examples of stance:

- Be sure your elbows are tucked in versus splayed out.

- Old the camera with your right hand while cradling the lens with your left.

- Position your left foot pointed straight ahead, as well as ahead of your shoulders with your right foot behind at least one foot and to the right and also pointed to the right.

- Don’t have your shoulders square to the subject. Bring your left shoulder more in line with your left foot and your right shoulder will go back automatically.

As to shutter control:

- Fire the shutter using just the pad of your index finger. Instinct will have one squeeze the entire right hand which induced shake at the exact worst time.

- Fire the sitter either immediately following an inhale or exhale, but do neither as the shutter is fired. To demonstrate why, point your index finger at some thuan death watch how much it bobs as you breath, then pause breathing for just a moment to see how much it steadies.

speters Loc: Grangeville/Idaho

First off, this lens leaves a lot to be desired when shooting wide open and its helpful to actually put the focus on the subject. Even at 1/1000 of a sec., the blue heron shot shows a lot of motion blur as well! If you have that much trouble steadying the camera, please put it onto a tripod!

RRS Loc: Not sure

I don't see anything sharp in the second image, do you shoot off a tripod? The part of the image (2nd) that looks to be the sharpest in the image is towards the front. Have you done a Fine Tune (Nikon) or a Micro-adjust (Canon)? If I had wanted more detail in the BH I would have shot at 600mm if that lens is sharp there. When shooting with a long lens you compress a lot of whatever there is in the air, pollen, dust, moisture and etc. If you have a tripod try some shots and see what difference that makes.

jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ

As someone already pointed out, your lens isn't the best lens for getting awesome detail like you see in some other photos. But if you get close enough, learn to hold the camera steady, (technique that takes a lot of practice) use the burst mode on your camera so that when conditions aren't the greatest, like being on a moving vessel, that one of the many pictures taken just might be tack sharp. Use a lower ISO to reduces noise for better results. I don't know how old your D7000 is, but I don't believe it's the latest in technology either so high ISO's will be pretty noisy compared to a newer model of camera body.

To boil it down, you need to take a lot of wildlife pictures to become proficient at getting the desired results. This involves knowing your camera and the lenses limitations. It also involves honing your technique. Also, you need to get as close to the subject as possible, and take those pictures when the lighting is great (not just good). And if you really think that wildlife photography is your thing, you'll save your $$ and buy the best equipment out there. But you will still need to hone your technique even if you have the best of the best equipment. Trust me. I say this because I was introduced to a very wealthy guy that had just retired and he was wanting to hang out and learn from me and some of my friends that do this kind of work. He had the best Nikon equipment money could buy but he couldn't take a picture or edit a picture to save his life. But over time he started to improve. I'm not talking about a week here. I'm talking about a year of constant outings with us, and constant questions to the point where I was sick of having him around.

rdubreuil Loc: Dummer, NH USA

For those times you can't setup a tripod, I'd suggest you invest in a Monopod, with tilt head, ball head or gimbal. Good luck and keep practicing.

(Download)