kerfree Loc: Sebago and Sanibel

My goal is to master portrait photography, but seems the harder I try the worse I get. I have a very simple home studio set up with two shoot through umbrellas, both with 105w, 5500K continuous CBStudio bulbs, and one strobe that doesn't seem to talk to my camera very well. And newly arrived yesterday, a Sekonic L358 light meter, which I thought was going to solve all my problems...

I've watched several Adorama videos on using the light meter. Metering for ambient light I get. Trouble is my continuous lights really are not bright enough, so I need to figure out metering for the strobe. I understand how to take the measurement on the light meter for the strobe (which is shooting through an umbrella), but the meter just gives the fstops and speeds for the camera, so I still have to guess at setting the flash using the flash guide numbers. Is there any hope for me, ever figuring this out?

I'm posting three samples of my efforts, the first, taken before the light meter arrived. The second, with my new light meter, metering for ambient light. The third, close to a melt down, trying to figure out metering for my flash, while using my cell phone as a remote to trigger the camera.

Thank you in advance for any wisdom you experienced and patient portrait photographers can offer!

Pre-light meter, continuous studio lights,


Metering for Ambient Light


So not getting it - metering for strobe flash

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Don't panic! :)...help is here.

You are on the right track...you don't need guide numbers...you just set the light...pop the flash and set the camera to match or adjust the flash distance to subject or power until you get the f/stop you want to shoot at.

Here is a basic, simple way to start:

1.) Set your flash up at a 45 degree angle to your subject, and 45 degrees up.

Put it about 5' away on 1/4 power as a starting point.

2.) Set your sekonic meter on ISO 100, SS to 1/200 (or whatever your sync speed is for your camera; mine is 1/200)

3.) Hit the "flash ready" button on your sekonic meter and then pop your flash (standing at the subject location.)

What f/stop did it say? If it's reasonable...let's say f/8...then set your camera on f/8 and shoot away. if it's not, (let's pretend f/22) then you need to adjust your flash power and/or distance of flash to subject to bring it lower.

flash power settings are roughly like f/stops...that is 1/1 to 1/2 is 1 full stop of light difference. So however far you have to go from f/22 (let's say to f/8) then you have to chop the power of your flash 3 stops....from where it is...(example 1/1, 1/2, 1/4, to 1/8)


Make sense?

PS: You can email me anytime if its' faster or easier for you;

rpavich@gmail.com

Bob

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Take a look at the diagram I posted here and try and follow it. It should be self explanatory:

http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-92052-1.html

kerfree Loc: Sebago and Sanibel

Thank you, Bob! Just reading your advice, I feel hope returning :) Tomorrow is a new day - I'm printing out your suggestions, will try again and will let you know how it goes. Gratefully, Kerry

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

No problem....trust me...you WILL get it...it's easier than you think...

kerfree Loc: Sebago and Sanibel

You are the best, thanks!

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

Here is an exercise yu can do WITHOUT YOUR CAMERA...and it really helps to understand it.

Set your flash on a stand without an umbrella but with the wireless trigger attached.

Set it on 1/4 power.

Set your sekonic meter on your camera's sync speed and ISO 100.

Stand 5' away and aim the dome on the meter at the flash (holding it under your chin)

hold your wireless flash trigger in your hand and just hit the "test" button.

Read the f/stop.

Now, go to the flash and turn the power up to 1/2.


go back to the spot you were standing in and repeat the procedure.

what was the resulting f/stop? (it should be 1 full stop higher than it was)


Keep doing this; varying the power up and down and reading the f/stops.

This will get you used to what your flash puts out at a given distance and power level, and get you used to changing it and seeing the difference.


Then when you are done with that...LEAVE it on 1/4 power and keep changing the distance from the flash to you and see the effect.

It's interesting and educational.

Birdguide Loc: Ormond Beach, FL

What a kind and generouse response :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

kerfree Loc: Sebago and Sanibel

Yes! So appreciative. And thanks to rpavich
- I'm not giving up.

GPoyner Loc: North Dakota

Great help rpavich! You helped kerfree, but I'm going to save this post for future reference....that is whenever I breakdown and get some lights......

Kerfree - keep it up and don't get discourged...you'll be knocking it out of the ball park soon with those lights.

rpavich Loc: West Virginia

No problem...glad to help....I know how "weird" it is at first....

JR1 Loc: Tavistock, Devon, UK

From what I have seen so far you have little to worry about the photos are good

And an attractive model

Radioman Loc: Ontario Canada

*********

The Folk's here have given you a lot of good advice on the 'HOW'. Portrait photography is NOT 'my thing' but I do know what I like when I see it. Your third one appears to be under-exposed so I increased it a little using photoshop (No other adjustments).
I like the lighting, especially the one on your right highlighting your hair. The light on your left gives nice shadows on your face and gives a twinkle in your eyes without a reflection in your glasses.
To me, it is a VERY nice portrait.

Andrea Loc: Naples, Florida

Hi, this has nothing to do with light metering, however, my advice would be to not cut limbs off at the joint. first & second photo the right hands are cut off. Good luck!

kerfree Loc: Sebago and Sanibel

Thanks for the encouragement, GPoyner. I'm going to put rpavich's suggestions to the test today.