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Sharpness
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Jan 6, 2013 02:48:49   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
treadwl wrote:
Looking at the example you supply I think I see part of the problem. I know the photo is small, and I'm looking at it on a computer as a second generation but you re shooting on a bright well lit day. The eagles have white heads and the heads look to be a bit overexposed. Long lenses need to be spot on to get the max sharpness possible. Also, I would bet you cropped this a fair amount. These things will greatly hurt sharpness. As sharpshooter noted, there is no substitute for getting dirty to sneak up on the birds, to get the shot you want.

Also, why were you shooting at ISO 800 on a bright day like the
Good Luck.

Larry
Looking at the example you supply I think I see pa... (show quote)

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Jan 6, 2013 03:47:13   #
SharpShooter Loc: NorCal
 
SharpShooter wrote:
treadwl wrote:
Looking at the example you supply I think I see part of the problem. I know the photo is small, and I'm looking at it on a computer as a second generation but you re shooting on a bright well lit day. The eagles have white heads and the heads look to be a bit overexposed. Long lenses need to be spot on to get the max sharpness possible. Also, I would bet you cropped this a fair amount. These things will greatly hurt sharpness. As sharpshooter noted, there is no substitute for getting dirty to sneak up on the birds, to get the shot you want.

Also, why were you shooting at ISO 800 on a bright day like the
Good Luck.

RobertM, I had not seen your photo before my post.
Treadwl, does a good analysis.
Wow, those birds are really far away. Are they cropped? For sure expose for the white. Use your blinkies.
What is your goal? RobertM, you have a scene with some birds in it. I strive to always get a catchlight in their eyes. I've never even seen eagle. So I don't know their envirenmont. But you either need to get much closer or much longer glass. Can you get there before they come out and use a blind? With birds feather detail is critical but you are way to far for that. I can't see the sharpness since I'm on my phone. But if the birds aren't moving, they should be sharp. At that distance you are probably at infinity so should be sharp. But they may be out of focus if your lens is focusing beyond infinity. If the birds are stationary, use your live view at 10x and see if your photos get sharper. Of course as a test you can shoot anything at a similar distance. Let us know what you get. And in that situation do lower your ISO.

Larry
Looking at the example you supply I think I see pa... (show quote)
quote=treadwl Looking at the example you supply I... (show quote)

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Jan 6, 2013 09:23:45   #
dpaden Loc: Homewood, Alabama
 
Do a rough check of the calibration. Place a yardstick about 10 yards in front of camera pointing toward camera then lower the front end of the yardstick about 15 inches so you are photographing the yardstick on an angle. Set your fstop for widest aperature and shutterspeed 1/200 or faster. Spot focus on the 18 inch mark of the yardstick and take several shots. When you view the image on your computer, you should be in focus 1/3 in front of the focus point and 2/3 behind. My 5D MK III focusing was off on all lens until I recalibrated it. I am much happier with photos now.

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Jan 6, 2013 09:41:22   #
ole sarg Loc: south florida
 
I would suggest you pick one bird at a time and focus on that single object. It seems to me that your focus point is on the tree branch that is closest. Get closer and try to fill the frame with the bird.

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Jan 6, 2013 09:47:35   #
Hendrickus
 
before you mess with micro focuse i would take both batteries out and this will reset you focuse leave them out for ten minutes or so completey power down

100-400 L
100-400 L...

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Jan 6, 2013 10:13:54   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
Robertm wrote:
New yo UHH. Wondering has anyone had problems with sharpness using a Canon 100-400 F-4.5-5.6 "L" Is lens. Trying to shoot Bald Eagles @ 400mm,ISO of800and have not been able to get a tack sharp shot. HELP !!!


Use a shutter speed of at least 1/1000 and see if you still have the problem.

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Jan 6, 2013 10:20:06   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
Robertm wrote:
here is an example of my problem


If you upload using "store original" we can check the rest of the photo info and get a better look at it.

I see a couple of possibilities. If when looking at blown up nothing is sharp then it is most likely camera movement. You need a higher shutter speed.

If some of the branches in front are sharp than you are OK on shutter speed but focusing on the branches with too little DOF. You need to spot focus on the bird you want.

I know some recommend using aperture priority on birds but I don't understand why. You want to get the shutter speed up so why not set it where you need it?

On flying birds where I can get the spot on the bird I use spot metering also. I'd probably use average metering on the shot you show, though.

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Jan 6, 2013 10:21:15   #
Kinopless Loc: Mandurah, Western Australia
 
I'm with Mtnman - get it off Aperture priority and on to Shutter priority, shake and movement are your enemies with long lenses.
Depth of field isn't your problem, f11/f8 are fine.
High ISO = less sharpness too.

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Jan 6, 2013 10:25:03   #
Benttree Loc: GA.
 
I think " birdpix" has it. I do have a same lens on 7D, I would set to= 1000+ speed, f/5.6, manual or TV and only a single focus point, IS on and AL-SERVO, it be sharp as tack.
ISO and speed , depending to the day light on the moment.

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Jan 6, 2013 10:28:00   #
oldtool2 Loc: South Jersey
 
Festina Lente wrote:
Hello BirdPix:
Have you tried using Reikan's FoCal software? I'm cautiously impressed so far. See recent (today's) post here on UHH.
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-87558-1.html
I'd really appreciate your opinion as my Canon 100-400 really came to life after calibrating it with my LensAlign jig, and the FoCal made it even more accurate. Pretty impressive (so far...)

birdpix wrote:
Robertm wrote:
Subject stationary,sitting in tree


OK, here are a few things to check or try:

1. For a stationary bird, use a single focus point and place it on the eye of the bird.

2. You are shooting in Av, aperture priority. The sweet spot on that lens is ~ f/8-11. this will also get you a higher shutter speed. In direct sun at ISO 800, you should be at 1/1600 to 1/2000. That will eliminate camera shake.

3. Use Image Stabilization set to #1.

4. If these things don't work, look to see if anything else in the frame is in focus. If so, test that camera/lens combination for front or back focusing. I have had that problem with that lens.

5. If nothing in the frame is pin sharp, and there is no blur from camera shake or subject movement, then suspect that the lens itself is faulty. Some people find their 100-400's are a little soft, most do not. I have seen some very sharp images taken with that lens so I know it is capable. It may require Canon to recalibrate the lens to bring it up to specs.

One last thing: You state you have taken pictures up to f/40 which is n ot available on the 100-400, nor is f/4.0 if that was a typo. Are you using a teleconverter? If so, that may be the cause of loss of IQ...especially if you are using a 2X converter.
quote=Robertm Subject stationary,sitting in tree ... (show quote)
Hello BirdPix: br Have you tried using Reikan's Fo... (show quote)


:thumbup: :thumbup:

Here are two photos using that lens. Hre are two photos taken yesterday of a red-tail hawk. ISO-1250 handheld at about 16 yards away.

Jim D





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Jan 6, 2013 11:25:31   #
MtnMan Loc: ID
 
oldtool2 wrote:


Here are two photos using that lens. Hre are two photos taken yesterday of a red-tail hawk. ISO-1250 handheld at about 16 yards away.

Jim D


It looks like noise to me. See what you can get with ISO 200. If you can't get your shutter speed up to 1/800 only then increase the ISO.

If you can't keep up that shutter speed you'll have to go to a tripod. If you do turn off image stabilization and use a remote release or delayed release to help control camera movement.

I tried Topaz denoise on it and it didn't help. The detail just isn't there.

Frankly I'm puzzled. I looked at dpreview on your camera and it should be very good at ISO 1250.

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Jan 6, 2013 12:18:21   #
CAM1017 Loc: Chiloquin, Oregon
 
Robertm wrote:
New yo UHH. Wondering has anyone had problems with sharpness using a Canon 100-400 F-4.5-5.6 "L" Is lens. Trying to shoot Bald Eagles @ 400mm,ISO of800and have not been able to get a tack sharp shot. HELP !!!


Fast Shutter speed, panning, good light are all critical for birds in flight. You have a good lens and with some Post processing with a good program you should achieve results you are happy with. Here are two examples with the Canon 100-400 lens.

Bald Eagle
Bald Eagle...

Bald Eagle
Bald Eagle...

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Jan 6, 2013 12:43:50   #
Daryl New Loc: Wellington,New Zealand
 
I have my newspapers 100-400,it was "soft",cured alot when found it had been sitting in said newspaper office with no rear cover on.Once we cleaned dust out that helped,still not good 'tho.does not like low light situations even in day light.Am still working on it....

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Jan 6, 2013 13:02:48   #
oldtool2 Loc: South Jersey
 
MtnMan wrote:
oldtool2 wrote:


Here are two photos using that lens. Hre are two photos taken yesterday of a red-tail hawk. ISO-1250 handheld at about 16 yards away.

Jim D


It looks like noise to me. See what you can get with ISO 200. If you can't get your shutter speed up to 1/800 only then increase the ISO.

If you can't keep up that shutter speed you'll have to go to a tripod. If you do turn off image stabilization and use a remote release or delayed release to help control camera movement.

I tried Topaz denoise on it and it didn't help. The detail just isn't there.

Frankly I'm puzzled. I looked at dpreview on your camera and it should be very good at ISO 1250.
quote=oldtool2 br br Here are two photos using ... (show quote)


MtnMan,
Actually I lean more towards vibration. They were quick shots taken from my Jeep while sitting on the side of the road with it running. I didn't have time or a safe place to get out and set up my tripod. Shutting off my Jeep might have helped but didn't think of it at the time. Ishould have backed off to 375 or 38mm also, might have helped a little bit.

Sometimes you take the shot and hope for the best.

Jim D

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Jan 6, 2013 13:10:31   #
jeep_daddy Loc: Prescott AZ
 
Robertm wrote:
here is an example of my problem


You need to know the limits of your lens; it appears you've surpassed it's limits. The subject is too far away to get good detail and tack sharp. It also looks as though your focus may be on the branches and not the bird. ISO 800 is too high and will cause too much noise. Don't shoot above 400. The only way to slightly improve the shot you took is to use a tripod, turn off the IS and reduce the ISO to about 200.

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