gessman Loc: Colorado

I'm not birdpix but he doesn't seem to be responding to you. You might try to send him a private message. Still, "front focus" and "back focus" as he mentioned to RobertM means is the lens focusing in front of in back of the intended focus point. I think you may be talking about the "back focus button" which you can use rather than using the shutter button to cause your camera to focus.

I will go a step further and respond to your first message to birdpix in the event you don't want to contact him via private message. There is probably not a reason to worry about your new lens arriving needing special considerations. Shoot some shots at a good close target and see if it is focusing okay. If not, set up a target, put it on a tripod, use a remote or the timed release and see if focus is better then. If not, then would be the time to be concerned and you can then come back into uhh and seek advice as to what to do about it. Depending on your camera, it is possible for you to adjust the lens to your camera if it isn't focusing just right and your manual should tell you how if it's possible. The procedure is called micro-adjustment. If your camera doesn't permit that, then you may need to send it off to Canon to be calibrated.

CAM1017 Loc: Chiloquin, Oregon

On the subject of front or back focus it is almost a personal thing. I tried it for awhile and really could not get used to it. Many people who shoot a lot seem to like it. Not sure that there is any advantage in the quality of focus or speed of of focus one way or the other. You really have to try it to see what your preference is.

Tom O Loc: Wisconsin

gessman,

Thank you so much for being considerate and responding to my questions.

I'll look into the point you make regarding about focusing in back of in back of my intended focus point.

I ordered this lens after reading numerous reviews and following all uhh threads I could find regarding the lens which has given me a little concern about the "QC" the lens are put through. I'll try some tests as you suggest and see if I need to be concerned.

Thank you again and Happy New Year.

gessman Loc: Colorado

My pleasure. I don't own the 100-400 but looked at it hard before deciding on the 400 5.6 non IS lens. I will say though that I'd be surprised if you have any issues with your new lens. Those on uhh who have bought it recently seem to be getting really good images with it. Nowadays, it's almost impossible to expect perfection from anyone but I think Canon does try hard. Enjoy it and Happy New Year to you also. Here's a url for you to look at that discusses micro-adjustment. I find these folks to be pretty reliable:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Photography-Tips/AF-Microadjustment-Tips.aspx

EDIT: Something you might want to do is start a new subject in the Main section asking for those who own the lens to discuss what, if any, problems they have experienced with the lens. I'd think you'd get a lot of good answers that would affirm that you've made a great lens decision. You can also go up top to the 'Search' selection and search for prior threads that have discussed the lens. I feel you'll probably get more back than you'll want to read. Cheers!

Tom O Loc: Wisconsin

lots of good advise, thank you again.

hjphotog

I use that 100-400 as my fast-draw long lens. I never had a sharpness issue that I couldn't fix in photoshop, which is about normal for digital cameras of any quality, especially if you're shooting RAW. It took too long and too much muscle to get used to all that bulk between a Mark II and that hulking lens.
But here are some tips that help me:
For bird photography I switched from the 5D II to the 7D for the faster autofocus. And the weight was much more manageable.
-- I shoot mostly nature and mostly birds on the wing. I became well acquainted with the image stabilization and the two levels of autofocus. Practice, practice.
-- I hated the trombone zoom at first until I started shooting birds and then I appreciated it. Learn a setting that you can count on so you aren't surprised.
-- I try to shoot with the deepest aperture, and set it on rapid fire and use the spot-meter in the center of the frame. Shooting three four and five shots and focusing on a crucial spot and the good shots will increase exponentially.