I wanted a look showing the subject to be in the sunlight and the backdrop in shade.
Z8, Z70-200.
What do you think? Does this approach have possibilities?
Definite possibilities, Tim, I use it in flower shots.
It works, Tim. But the lattice in #1 is distracting.
kpmac wrote:
It works, Tim. But the lattice in #1 is distracting.
I agree. But the effect works.
Sinewsworn ask "What do you think? Does this approach have possibilities?"
The sun is a problem, it shines on the background and so we see the background... A flash is controllable and diminishes by the square of the distance. When photographing flowers growing in the wild there is junk in the background or as kpmac said about the Lattice work... if illuminated by flash with a tight lens, low ISO, and fast shutter speed the sunlight is not the source of the light, so the background is significantly underexposed.
The fast shutter setting is dependent on the camera's ability to see the flash properly, typical, 125th but some 250th. An advantage is that in a gusting wind and movement of the plant/flower is frozen.
The trick is to set the C1 constant on your camera via manual choice... then photo close, and regulate the exposure by distance. Using C-1 makes complicated settings effortless; your camera is as easy as Granma's Kodak 2A Browny box camera.. just click. How-2 set C-1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4fwZJQ89Zo
#1 (and to a lesser extent, #2) has areas where dark should be light - three tulip buds - and light should be dark - two areas of lattice.
Otherwise a nice edit, though I feel would be more effective (show off the flowers) with less busy backgrounds. One way to accomplish that is with cloth or carboard or similar behind the subjects.
Would you share your workflow from these, please?
Maybe slide the temp slider a little to the right on the flowers.
Absolutely! I love the look, especially with flowers!
dpullum wrote:
Sinewsworn ask "What do you think? Does this approach have possibilities?"
The sun is a problem, it shines on the background and so we see the background... A flash is controllable and diminishes by the square of the distance. When photographing flowers growing in the wild there is junk in the background or as kpmac said about the Lattice work... if illuminated by flash with a tight lens, low ISO, and fast shutter speed the sunlight is not the source of the light, so the background is significantly underexposed.
The fast shutter setting is dependent on the camera's ability to see the flash properly, typical, 125th but some 250th. An advantage is that in a gusting wind and movement of the plant/flower is frozen.
The trick is to set the C1 constant on your camera via manual choice... then photo close, and regulate the exposure by distance. Using C-1 makes complicated settings effortless; your camera is as easy as Granma's Kodak 2A Browny box camera.. just click. How-2 set C-1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4fwZJQ89ZoSinewsworn ask "What do you think? Does this ... (
show quote)
Thanx for info. I'm Not a fan of trudging through the woods with flash units hanging off of my camera. Most of my shots are on-the-go with little to no pre-prep. I luv spontaneity; wildlife gives me that plus action! I have used my flashes in the manner you suggest. I use Lightroom for most of the background changes I am making.
PattyW60 wrote:
Absolutely! I love the look, especially with flowers!
Thanx! Here is another example.
tcthome wrote:
Maybe slide the temp slider a little to the right on the flowers.
Okay. Not what is happening here.
Linda From Maine wrote:
#1 (and to a lesser extent, #2) has areas where dark should be light - three tulip buds - and light should be dark - two areas of lattice.
Otherwise a nice edit, though I feel would be more effective (show off the flowers) with less busy backgrounds. One way to accomplish that is with cloth or carboard or similar behind the subjects.
Would you share your workflow from these, please?
Thanx for the review of the test images. I am interested in developing the process. My wife likes the drama of darkened backgrounds.
I do "stage" my wife's flower shots. I have burlap, old bed sheets and large cardboard pieces that often do the trick-thanx for the tip. I usually print the good ones for her and I do not post them very often.
Workflow? I use Lightroom for this look. After selecting Background in Masking I simply reduce the Exposure, Highlights (especially in bright backgrounds I see in bird photography), the Shadow, White and Black sliders by moving the sliders to the left (decrease) until the desired effect is achieved. Comes from a desire to improve subject separation in wildlife shots with busy backgrounds.
My arthritis causes weakness and shakes. Makes tracing objects in an image using a mouse or wand very difficult for me. So, I do not use the features in Photoshop that could offer me better-looking images.
The attached image shows how I came to this process; the sky is very bright. I am looking up at the bird that has just landed. I dialed in EC +1.3-helps bring out the bird's detail. The background still overwhelmed the bird so a bit of background light reduction was called for.
I attached a shot of my wife's Tulips with completely blackened background in response to PattyW60's liking the process.
Sinewsworn wrote:
Thanx for info. I'm Not a fan of trudging through the woods with flash units hanging off of my camera. Most of my shots are on-the-go with little to no pre-prep. I luv spontaneity; wildlife gives me that plus action! I have used my flashes in the manner you suggest. I use Lightroom for most of the background changes I am making.
No added flash mounted, i use the popup on my TZ100. If needed for advanced technique, then use a small slave flash with a small flex stand or perhaps a coat hanger wire stuck in the ground holding it in position
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