pithydoug Loc: Catskill Mountains, NY

I shoot vertical sections and drop them into LR and use Pano function. No straightening just smarter joining. crop the excess.

Used 100MM, two tiers of 4 pics. Could not back up. Shot hand held

(Download)

Chris63 Loc: Central WI

Geez, now I need to take that Optics 410 course I have been dreading. :)

Thanks.

kcooke Loc: Alabama

I use the correction available in Lightroom classic. If it is a severe enough correction you will loose part of the image and have to crop. Because of this I shoot these type photos with plenty
Of extra field of view so that the crop is contained and doesn’t cut off the photo on the sides especially.

BebuLamar

Perhaps using a drone so that the center of the lens is about the center of the building?

ecurb Loc: Metro Chicago Area

Nothing like shooting it straight to begin with. Get a sturdy tripod and a bubble level or your cameras built in level, shoot with the cameras back square and level.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Ever hear of having to point the camera up to get the whole building in?

cahale Loc: San Angelo, TX

Or Elements, which is cheaper and a one-time-only pay. And you can also tilt the horizontal perspective. Just take care with your shots that you have enough dead space overhead to allow for upper frame loss when you adjust.

cahale Loc: San Angelo, TX

Is that a What-a-Burger in drag?

jackm1943 Loc: Omaha, Nebraska

Very nice. I've been trying something like that also. With just 4-5 shots stitched together in Pano, you can get huge (~1GB) files that can be easily cropped and still retain lots of detail (like your image).

terryMc Loc: Arizona's White Mountains

When you do real estate, you use strobes to light interiors? Speedlights? Or just fix the light in Lightroom?

E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

For many years, I did architectural photography with a large format view camera- 4x5 or 8x10. I used leses that had a very large circle of coverage so that all the camera's movements, tilt, and shifts, could be employed without vignetting, fall of edge sharpness due to zonal aberrations, etc.

First of all, "architectural photography, in its "pure" form is not exactly the same as real-estate work or casual "snapshots" of buildings and other structures. A certain percentage of the work I do is commissioned by architects, who are very fussy about the accuracy, perspective, and particular view of the specific elevation of a building. There is somewhat of an overlap between architecture, real estate, and certain kinds of advertising assignments that have to do with buildings but all do not require the same treatment.

If the job requre the utmost accuracy, I have found that perspective control and any correction have to be addressed at teh camera. The view camer offered the maximum degreeof control become the front and back standards could be tilted, shifted and swung and a combination of corrections could be applied at the same time. A tilt/shift lens is the next best tool The most useful tilts, shift, and swings can be applied, but of course, the back of most digital cameras has no movements. A top-quality tilt/shift lens has a circle of cover that is necessary to accommodate its adjustment. If a photographer does a justifiable volume of architectural work, such a lens is a sound investment. If you know how to use it, it will deliver excellent IQ and save a lot of tedious post-processing procedures that may impair the final image quality.

I noted that someone wrote that the tilt control on a T/S lens is "useless" and can only be applied to close-up work The Scheimpflug principle can be applied to increase DOP in a font standard swing as well as a front standard tilt. This can be apple to increase DOP without excessive stopping-down thus, avoiding diffraction.

For the occasional job, there are many workarounds. A tall building can be accurately photographed without foreshortening or converging line distortion by elevating the camera halfway up the height of the structure. A nearby building, window, balcony, or rooftop can serve as a viewpoint. An elevating device such as a cherry picker or Sky-Jack can be rented.

Attaced, is an excerpt from an old Kodak Professiona Photoguide. It illustrates the most useful view-camera movements. Someof them are applicable to a modern tilt/shift lens.

As for the OP's question. I advise him to consider a T/S lens, that 17mm Canon is a beauty, AND assess your client's needs as to the accuracy specifications, and the size of the final exhibition of your images as the IQ requirements. There s no reason why you should not master the editing techniques that are used to correct perspective. Even if you acquire a T/S lens since the camer does not have a tilt/shift rear standard, you still might have to add some tweaking in post-processing.

Yes, there are conversions that make the adaptation of costly medium format lenses to current digital cameras. I have converted a Mamiya RZ67 to digital with a Phase I, a special tilt/shift bellows, and some view-camera glass. The conversion was very costly but I still use the system and it has paid for itself.

Architect1776 Loc: In my mind

Add a bit to the sides as well.

BigOldArt Loc: Seminole, FL

Boris77

Simple perspective distortion is very easy to fix in Photoshop, but changing the angle does not get rid of all the lens distortion at the edge of a picture. Leaving some extra space around your desired image area allows flexibility to crop away problem edges.
Since you added the word snapshot in your question I assume that you are not carefully composing each shot on a tripod, which would be the logical way to use a special purpose (expensive) single focal length lens.
Boris

dmsM43

Using software is the cheapest route to go. DXO Viewpoint is fairly easy to use, and it includes correction for perpective issues in the corners and edges. Tilt-shift lenses are far more expensive. I have old manual focus ones from the old film days: Nikkor PC28mm shift lens (around $400 on eBay these days), and the Canon TS35mm which runs around $800 on eBay. So unless you are making huge prints for fussy customers, software works just fine, and I believe you can get DXO Viewpoint version 3 for around $100.