E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada

Let me give the OP, if he is still reading this thread, a bit of PROFESSIONAL advice. I am a professional photograher. That does not necesserally make me more talented or better than anyone else BUT every time I go out on an assignment, I have to come back with good results. You may not be a professional photograher BUT you are taking, perhaps a once-in-a-lifetime trip to a faraway land in a limited time frame, and you certainly want to come home with good images as a memento of the experience and a record of the sights you will see. If this is the case, you don't was to mess around with any technique you are not familiar with or try out somethg new or unfamiliar on every shot you make. This is not the occasion to go with waht anyone else tells you is the best method, just because they think so. You have or work in a way you are comfortable with.

I have no idea what your level of knowledge is as to the fully manual operation of your camera. If yoy are fully acquainted with the so-called exposure triangle, know to use your metering system strategically as to its various modes (spot, integrated, matrix, etc.), and know where to probe for readigs, the manual mode is fine. If you can quickly decide on a strategy for each shot as to basic exposure, depth of filed issues, DR, possible post-processing strategies, etc., and take control easily - go for it. You can always"chimp" and make sure you have the image you want before going onto the next site. On certain guided tours time is limited and you may have to gun and run or spray and pray! Personally, I love to spend a lotsof time on certain shots, landscapes, architecture, still-life, whatever, and precisely control all my settings, shot from multiple angles, wait for different times of day, bracket exposures, chimp, and analyze, but so many situations do no allow for any of that.

On the other hand! If you use a completely automated exposure management mode, you may lose some more sophisticated control over DOP, selective focus, and more complex HDR methods. etc. but you will have sataifactiry image of your trip. You have a full-featured camer with all kinds of manipulative possibilities but in a fully automatic mode, it is possibly the best point-and-shoot camer money can buy!

Truth is, all your camera's meterig modes and automated featur are really "MANUAL" because they are not some kind of robotic artificial intelligence that controls YOU. YOU are always in control and you can select whatever mode suits your purposes and the circumstance under which you are shooting. Te wor "priority" is key. If DOP or avoidance of diffraction is an issue you want exact contl over APERTURE, if you are shooting some kind of fast action or movement, SHUTTER speed is the priority. You can manipulate and compromise by adjusting the ISO to accommodate any of the aforementioned. You can bracket or use exposure compensation, as long as you know when and how to employ these features.

Most importantly, in any given situation, will you have time to concentrate on good composition, expression, and the storytelling aspect of your shots and still enjoy other aspects of your vacation? You don't want to employ any method that causes endless fiddling with your gear or you will lose great photo ops!

If you decide in advance to try an unfamiliar mode or technique, get in a little practice time before you embark on your trip. Shoot a few streetscapes, find a dimly lit church, shoot some folks at a local outdoor market, etc.

As for gear? How much weight do you want to tote around? Admittedly, I usually carry too much- just ask my wife! You are away from home base- do you want some spares and overlap focal lengths in case somethig malfunctions? A spare body? A tripod or monopod. I would make sure I have moderately wide, normal, and medium telephoto choices. Ultra-wide and super-long lenses may come in handy- depending on your style and what you are going to shoot. Try to achieve a balance between traveling light and having sufficient gear to do waht you want to do! Also, consider that since the relaxation of pandemic restrictions and the resumption of more recreational air travel, baggage, customs, and carry-on issues have become hell on earth. Pack well, and make certain of carry-on restrictions and allowances.

P.S. I am beginning to HATE the term "old school". It smacks of ageism and foolishness. A lot of younger folks and some older ones too make fun of older methods or gear. There are lotsof so-called old-school methods and equipment that still work well. If some of these young whippersnappers and gear snobs had a bit of old-school knowledge, their photography would improve.

Bon voyage!

gwilliams6

Thanks William,

gwilliams6

You dont understand, in P, or A mode your shutter speed and aperture can change, all determined by your camera's computer seeking an acceptable exposure.

Pros want to keep BOTH their set aperture AND their set shutter speed for the DOF and action stopping shutter speeds they want to MAINTAIN throughout the play. In those situations using Auto ISO lets them keep both their chosen aperture and chosen shutter speed settings throughout the play as the subject goes from bright light to darker areas of the field or arena in one continuous play. Do you understand this ?

Cheers and best to you.

gwilliams6

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

I certainly do, which is why I use what Pentax labels a ‘TAv’ mode much of the time.

gwilliams6

Pentax TAV mode is just another form of auto ISO, correct.

"TAV is a handy in-between mode if you want to set your own aperture and shutter speed, but don't want to have to change the ISO, too. You set the aperture and shutter speed of your choice, using the front and back adjustment wheels, and the camera will choose an ISO to suit the situation you're shooting in"

Not many pros using Pentax nowadays though, or even hobbyists. Pentax' share of the camera market is in the single digits. Kind of sad for a brand that many of us started with for some of our first SLRs.

Enjoy your Pentax ,they still have some good cameras, including a new monochrome camera.
https://pentax.eu/

Cheers and best to you.

joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA

Fun, beautiful shots 💓💓💓💓💓

gwilliams6

Thanks so much Joe,

Cheers and best to you.

Craig Meyer Loc: Sparks, NV

Said better than I was composing.
C

My most frequent use of Manual is when I don't want to take 4 steps on a touch screen to use EC!

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

The advantage of ‘TAv’ mode is that you get there by rotating the mode dial only, by not having to touch the ISO controls. Then, rotating the mode dial again, you are back to the ISO you had set.

gwilliams6

Just as easy and quick in and out of Auto ISO with any custom button set on my Sonys , or you can set the mode dial or wheels also. Sonys allow you to customize nearly any button and/or dial or wheel to any functions you choose, even using the touchscreen. No need to touch the ISO dial.

Cheers and best to you.

rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA

Pentax also is easy.
My point was that you don’t affect ISO settings by using ‘TAv’.

R.G. Loc: Scotland

The only difference between M+AutoISO and fully manual is that with fully manual you have to keep an eye on the camera's meter scale to keep the exposure right. If you want a neutral exposure you keep the highlighted segment central, if you want + or - EC you keep the correct number of highlighted segments lit above or below the centre (which will involve counting). With fully manual your attention has to be kept on the meter scale, whereas with M+AutoISO the camera does the "looking" for you, leaving you to concentrate on other more important things.

If you want EC while in M+AutoISO, dial it in at the start or if it needs changing on the hoof, a button plus adjustment wheel is all that's needed (for most cameras). Set it then forget it - no constant distractions involved.

When using M+AutoISO you don't have to target base ISO - you can float it a few steps up from that (0.3 or 0.5 stops per step) so if the brightness changes suddenly you don't risk the ISO bottoming out. And despite the fact that ISO is floating, you still control it with your choice of shutter speed (and/or EC).

BebuLamar

I never use the EC. When the situation called for EC I switched to manual.

Miker999

👍
The only time I use EC is when I try all features of a camera that I just bought to make sure everthing is operational, even if I don't plan on using the feature.