User ID wrote:
See attached pix.
These are not cheap, mine was a hundred and change, used. It wont budge. Its very finely geared and the override springs (bypassing the gears) require some muscle to use.
Ive got some doubts youll ever get away with using any of the low priced solutions that have been suggested.
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I think you got me mixed up with the OP. I am the one who told him to try a geared head - I use a Manfrotto XPRO geared 3 way head and have since 2016.
One more vote for a geared head. They can be adjusted easily and your body/lens stay where you want them to stay with no drooping or drifting.
JD750 wrote:
There you go.
Deerpark243, why are you using a ball head alone for Macro work? Buy the rails, that will resolve the issue.
And FYI there are macro forums here. People there can give you more specific advice about macro setups.
Yeah, I thought the Manfrotto ball head I have was going to do the trick with my 105mm.
deerpark243 wrote:
I wouldn't know where to begin putting an A/S plate on my camera, never heard of it. And, yeah, a good ball head is expensive.
Thanks for the info.
A/S means Arca Swiss style. Arca Swiss style plates fit the bottom of any camera that has a threaded tripod mounting hole on the bottom. The plates themselves fit A/S clamps which are designed to grab the plate with metal jaws on the front and rear. The plates may have a flat top surface ( universal fit) or have a rear edge flange or lip to prevent the camera from twisting on the plate. Some plates are specifically designed to fit a particular camera, whioch I personally prefer. The A/S clamps are used by nearly all ( except some Manfrotto) ball heads to hold the camera on the ball head. Ball heads sell new from $20-500, used heads are cheaper. Better heads (generally above $35)are rated on how much camera weight they can rigidly hold. In genral you want a head that can hold at least twice the weight of your camera and lens. There is lot s more to learn about heads, but the later basic info is a starting point.Locally some camera store clerks know only the price of what they are selling, others know more.
amfoto1 wrote:
For that type of photography I would suggest switc... (
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I have and sometimes use this Benro geared head on my heavy Bogen 3035 tripod along with my motorized WeMacro macro rail. I use it setting on a concrete floor in my basement darkroom. The system is solid as a rock.
Artcameraman wrote:
It's all about balance. You think you have problems I still use a bellows with my 100mm Canon macro lens and I have to counterbalance it so it doesn't drift. Some day I'll get off my ass and go down into the workshop and make a suitable plate out of aluminum and move the fulcrum point and all will be right in this world.
Or maybe someday you might luck into a dual rail bellows:
JD750 wrote:
There you go.
Deerpark243, why are you using a ball head alone for Macro work? Buy the rails, that will resolve the issue.
And FYI there are macro forums here. People there can give you more specific advice about macro setups.
Once I’m set up the shoots go fine, I’ve been doing them for a while, it’s either in a light cube or I’m out in the field Hand holding it, it’s that extra 10 minutes that get me when I have it on the tripod.
I have the same problem with my 70-300 lens. This problem is solved by using a RRS panorama rail that is designed for camera nodal point adjustment. ALam.
deerpark243 wrote:
Once I’m set up the shoots go fine, I’ve been doing them for a while, it’s either in a light cube or I’m out in the field Hand holding it, it’s that extra 10 minutes that get me when I have it on the tripod.
Well that’s good then, apparently you don’t need any other suggestions to solve the issue, and that’s ok.
deerpark243 wrote:
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use more than any other lens. I have a light cube I shoot into for small objects. I have a Giottos MH 1000 ball head with a Nikon D810 & a D3 but every time I go to compose the shot it drifts out of composition just enough that it ruins the shot and fixed heads are worse, and I'm talking about a 30-degree angle. I have to guestamate where it is going to settle in the composition multiple times before I get the shot where I want it. I know the more expensive the ball head the less drift I get but I can't afford a $500.00 head. and I quit trying with the D3 because it is a tank. Any suggestions for it to stop drifting?
I have a Nikon Nikkor 105mm 2.8G Macro lens I use ... (
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Get a nodal rail and balance your camera/lens on the ball head.
https://www.amazon.com/Aluminium-Professional-Release-Compatible-Ballhead/dp/B07P8ZWRWF/
I now use a Benro gear head. At one time they sold for $250-300.
A professional photographer recommended a gear head for all types of photography not just macro work.
Sentinel4
The BH manufacturers should properly spec the load and the moment rating. Without a moment (torque) rating, you have no indication of how well the BH will secure a camera and long/heavy lens.
The nodal slide rails will benefit a macro shooter, and will help improve locking performance of marginal BH's by shifting the camera/lens CG closer to the ball. I have the Sirui K-30 with 44mm ball, and it locks up pretty well. Their K-40 (55mm ball) has a very reasonable price.
cjc2
Loc: Hellertown PA
A good ball head, like an RRS BH-55, will help solve your issues. You might also need a better tripod. By right, buy once. Best of luck.
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