Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

I see some talk lately about people using 35mm full frame cameras adapted to 4X5" monorail cameras. There are several adaptors on the market that precisely let you take 1/3 overlapping exposures so stitching isn't a problem. Yes, I know of and have used software to do this but my question is about the "circle of confusion" at long distances to infinity? Can the bellows be compresses enough to get an "in focused exposure" even using a bag bellows or will the rear standard have to be reversed to accomplish this? I currently use a scanning back to get landscape exposures but am thinking to travel a little more lightly (oh my aching back) when going deeply into the woods to get that once in a lifetime shot. Thanks for reading and respectively replying. Cheers.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

I have two Fotodiox adapters. They will attach to a view camera that has a Graflok back. One of the adapters works for my FX digital cameras, the other for my Hasselblad back. They work quite well. The lenses I use them with vary between 90mm and 300mm. I mostly use a bag bellows with them.

Using rise/fall and shift I can cover the entire area of a 4x5 negative.
--Bob

schoonerman

The focal plane remains the same regardless of what size back you mount on the camera, thus the bellows compresses or expands the same amount per lens whether shooting 4x5 or 35mm, a 150mm 4x5 lens is approx 6" from film plane to the lens focused at infinity, to focus closer you extend the bellows.

lamiaceae Loc: San Luis Obispo County, CA

I see others have covered the focal plane issue while I was composing my reply. Are you talking about "circle of confusion" or "image circle"? I am actually not aware of the adapter you are talking about. Personally I have gotten nice stitched panos or stitched wide angle shots with my APS-C cameras. Both using a tripod and hand held. I own two 4x5" cameras, a studio rail and a folding field camera. But I have only used them with film with my several large format lenses 90mm, 120mm, 150mm, and 210mm. But from what I have read vintage or any film intended large format lens does not have the resolution for a more impressive image. They usually have a huge image circle for camera / lens swings and tilts and rises and drops. But the circles of confusion for these lenses is for film grain not pixels. My guess is they would give you the resolution of 4MP on a 24x36mm sensor. I was also stated that there are new "digital" super high resolution large format lenses for use with modern digital backs. But the backs cost a fortune as would new style lenses for these. Thus I have never even tried mounting one of my view camera lenses on a DSLR or film SLR (backwards using the threaded filter front). There is really no point to it. For the cost to modernize up to new digital large format you could buy several medium format digital cameras such as Fujifilm, Phase-one, Pentax, Hasselblad. There might be a point to shooting the proposed way with a vintage 4x5" and adapted 35mm if all you want it small prints up to say 8x12". DSLR or MILC lenses are so much sharper! I have watched a fellow classmate create a huge wall mural by stitching FF HDR DSLR images together and it was breath taking. So I personally would shoot 4x5" film for large format and scan the negatives or transparencies. Have fun. Watch the GAS.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Found 'em. Here's a couple of my digital mounted to my 4x5.
--Bob

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(Download)

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Thank Bob.

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Thanks. The adaptor a no name one has a extension so I can mount the camera, a D800, to it. when mounted on the camera it's about 1.5 inches set further back than the ground glass which makes the circle of confusion fall in front of the focusing point of the camera. OK, I know I'll figure this out just appreciate the help. If you have any ideas please let me know.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Art, the way I go about this is to compose the scene on the 4x5 ground glass. Replace the glass with the Fotodiox adapter. Mount the camera on the adapter. Then using either the viewfinder on the camera or live view, I will refocus the image. From there it's simply shift to the initial position, click, next position, click, etc.

Of course, the aperture is controlled by the view camera lens, shutter speed is controlled by the shutter on the digital. The view camera lens is locked open for the entire process.

I've used my D700, D800e, and D850 with this setup.
--Bob

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Thanks Bob, working through this.

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

Hi Bob, thanks for the info and responding. I switched to my Sinar rail camera with a 210mm lens. and was able to succeed with capturing an acceptable image. 984mb 30X60" aprox. Took a while to process. Thanks. Cheers.
I didn't crop out the edges. Yes, still shooting through my bedroom window but the weather is getting warmer..

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Fantastic!!! I'm glad you got this process working for you.

I agree. The process can be a bit laborious but, under the right circumstances, it works very well. It's certainly not one for folks who don't like processing images.
--Bob

Artcameraman Loc: Springfield NH

So true, I started the stitching process and went to lunch. Now to take this rig into the field.

MrPhotog

I see you have your digital camera in horizontal orientation. Why not vertical?

If the subject is horizontal, with a vertical orientation you would have three rows of overlapping images, and each row would have 6 images. Total 18

In horizontal orientation you need only 4 shots on each row, but 4 rows doesn’t quite fill the 4” side of the format. Most of the time that may work well, bit other wise You need a 5 th row, and a total of 20 images.

Am I missing something here?

User ID

For your widest 4x5 lens you may prefer a recessed board to reclaim that inch and a half of freedom for your bag bellows.

rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona

Yes, you are. The arrangement was for illustrative purposes only. However, depending on the subject. I'll select the orientation of the camera or back I attach to the adapter. With one back, I do need 20 exposures, if I choose to cover the entire 4x5 image area. Orientation is based on a number of factors at the time of making the exposures.
--Bob