Well, now that I took a photo of the set up, it looks completely ridiculous.
You can see I am using some books here to get the reflecting sheet of white plastic up to the level I want. In actual practice I would move the sheet, angle it, curve it, add more sheets, depending on the subject and how the light looks. I use boxes, containers, or whatever is handy to configure the reflecting sheets, taping them in place. Typically I put the main light, or in this case the only light, above the subject and then bounce light to the front of the subject. The subject is really tiny, so the whole rig needs to be scaled up for larger subjects. The diffuser on the light fixture is one ply from a piece of paper towel taped in place.
This is an indoors set up, but I do more or less the same thing in the field, except that I use a battery powered LED bank and of course the sun through a diffuser for the main light, and the sky for the fill light and sometimes some white reflectors. Outdoors I also use a clear plastic thingee I made to block the wind. See -
Easy project for wind control. I am using a
"Plamp" to hold the twig.
The
inverse square law applies - as you move the light away from the subject, twice the distance means 1/4 light intensity, four times the distance means 1/16th as much light getting to the subject.
The camera is a refurbished Canon 5DII, EF 100mm f/2.8 Macro lens, the
Helicon tube for focus bracketing. The light fixture is nothing special, it has been kicking around here for decades and I am not sure where it got it. It is hanging from an old mic stand that I got somewhere. A sturdy base is important for stacking, and I am working on a heavy oak table.
Well, now that I took a photo of the set up, it lo... (