Vivitar 285HV Flash
Oct 23, 2012 04:30:51 #
I was poking around a pawn shop last weekend and found a Vivitar 285HV in very nice shape. It is missing the 28mm wide angle lens that fits in front of the flash head, but otherwise seems to be all there. I figured for $5 it was worth gambling on.
My question is, I know that some older flashes designed for film cameras have a high sync voltage which can fry the circuits in my Nikon D3000. I found a Popular Photography review of the unit from 2008 that says the newer versions have the low voltage sync and can be used with today's digital cameras. But how do I know if this unit is one of those? There was nothing in the manual under specifications about flash sync voltage, although I could have missed it.
Help please!
My question is, I know that some older flashes designed for film cameras have a high sync voltage which can fry the circuits in my Nikon D3000. I found a Popular Photography review of the unit from 2008 that says the newer versions have the low voltage sync and can be used with today's digital cameras. But how do I know if this unit is one of those? There was nothing in the manual under specifications about flash sync voltage, although I could have missed it.
Help please!
Oct 23, 2012 05:29:05 #
Oct 23, 2012 05:29:57 #
Oct 23, 2012 05:57:52 #
Hey BigDave...
Buried deep in the text of the page JR1 linked to is another link to a page that instructs how to test your own trigger voltage, if you have a multi-meter. My Vivitar 283s both measured at 14VDC which is within safe range for my Nikon.
If yours measures too high, you can still trigger it with radio-remotes, or slave-synch units. I've never mounted mine on camera, so I'm usually using a slave-synch.
Buried deep in the text of the page JR1 linked to is another link to a page that instructs how to test your own trigger voltage, if you have a multi-meter. My Vivitar 283s both measured at 14VDC which is within safe range for my Nikon.
If yours measures too high, you can still trigger it with radio-remotes, or slave-synch units. I've never mounted mine on camera, so I'm usually using a slave-synch.
Oct 23, 2012 07:01:56 #
Oct 23, 2012 12:16:13 #
Thanks for your help guys. Danilo, I haven't invested in any kind of equipment to trigger the flash off camera, but figure that at some point I will. Spending $5 for the flash itself instead of $100+ definitely helps out my budget for such a purchase.
Now I've got to get a battery for my digital multimeter and test things out.
Now I've got to get a battery for my digital multimeter and test things out.
Oct 23, 2012 18:21:25 #
The Vivitar 285HV is a good flash. I have one. For $5 you got a great deal.
An optical slave or a radio remote is how I fire the thirft store finds I have collected. Most any brand can meet my fill-in purposes.
I have taken an old dirt-cheap flash with an $3 optical slave, put them in a zip loc bag with some gravel for ballast and set it behind rocks on the seashore just under the water for some great light fill-in during sunsets. I've only had one wash away on me. Two others leaked, but a dip in a fresh water bucket saved them.
I have also used this technique on the bottom of a swimming pool and in a yard fountain.
They are practically disposable, as the batteres cost more than the flash.
Good luck.
An optical slave or a radio remote is how I fire the thirft store finds I have collected. Most any brand can meet my fill-in purposes.
I have taken an old dirt-cheap flash with an $3 optical slave, put them in a zip loc bag with some gravel for ballast and set it behind rocks on the seashore just under the water for some great light fill-in during sunsets. I've only had one wash away on me. Two others leaked, but a dip in a fresh water bucket saved them.
I have also used this technique on the bottom of a swimming pool and in a yard fountain.
They are practically disposable, as the batteres cost more than the flash.
Good luck.
Oct 23, 2012 18:46:10 #
I've lucked onto a couple of great buys at pawn shops. I picked up a piece of professional audio gear worth $400 for just $40 another time. Auctions can be fun too. I've got plenty of stuff, so I have to be careful about how often I go picking or else I'll end up on an episode of "Hoarders".
Oct 24, 2012 07:21:21 #
Delsam
Loc: Enfield,London, England
I still have a Vivitar 283 flash which I used professionally for many years in the film days, it cost £99.00 originally, then came down to £59.00 after some while, and when I changed to digital I used the Vivitar on a Canon 5D without even thinking about trigger voltages, and it worked fine, no probs.
The flash still works perfectly after all these years, but of course I now have the proper Canon 580EX11 flash, plus the 5D Mk.111 and use the Vivitar as a slave, or just back up.
You got a bargain !
The flash still works perfectly after all these years, but of course I now have the proper Canon 580EX11 flash, plus the 5D Mk.111 and use the Vivitar as a slave, or just back up.
You got a bargain !
Oct 24, 2012 09:06:19 #
i have 2 vivatars and a sunpack from the old days,they all work fine on my sony alpha 200,550,and 850s. they also work on my pentax 645d.one sets on a bracket and serves as a slave with the 200 and 550.
Oct 24, 2012 12:30:36 #
Oct 24, 2012 12:39:27 #
PhotoGator
Loc: Florida
Check the serial# and ask Vivitar's customer support.
Towards the bottom right side there is a link to Ask a Question
http://www.vivitar.com/products/9/flashes-and-accessories/172/285-hv
Towards the bottom right side there is a link to Ask a Question
http://www.vivitar.com/products/9/flashes-and-accessories/172/285-hv
Oct 24, 2012 12:47:55 #
I've got several older units & test them to determine if the trigger voltage is OK...I do have a few really old units that are not, but most are OK...(Vivitar 283, 285HV, Sunpak 522, Sunpak 433D, Nikon SB22,SB25 SB600, 3 Lester Dine ring lights, An older Soligor Ring light & an assortment of old shoe mount flashes)
Oct 24, 2012 13:49:56 #
mtnredhed
Loc: The part of NorCal that doesn't move
I've got 2 of the 285 HV's. They're a little stone age these days, but they put out a good bit of light. One measures about 8V at the shoe, and the other closer to 10. Neither bother my 7D. I've got an optical trigger shoe and a pair of shoes that let me use radio triggers. I stuck some velcro on the backs to hold the radio receivers.
They're as rare as hens teeth, but there was a cable that let you relocate the sensor to the hotshoe of your camera.
I also converted both of mine to take a coaxial power plug so I can run them off of an external 6V source. They don't seem fond of NiCD or NiMH because of the lower voltage (4.8 vs 6) but they like 6v gel cell or the LiFePO4 chemistry cells which are about 3v each.
They're as rare as hens teeth, but there was a cable that let you relocate the sensor to the hotshoe of your camera.
I also converted both of mine to take a coaxial power plug so I can run them off of an external 6V source. They don't seem fond of NiCD or NiMH because of the lower voltage (4.8 vs 6) but they like 6v gel cell or the LiFePO4 chemistry cells which are about 3v each.
Oct 24, 2012 16:04:40 #
PhotoGator
Loc: Florida
Screamin Scott wrote:
I've got several older units & test them to determine if the trigger voltage is OK...I do have a few really old units that are not, but most are OK...(Vivitar 283, 285HV, Sunpak 522, Sunpak 433D, Nikon SB22,SB25 SB600, 3 Lester Dine ring lights, An older Soligor Ring light & an assortment of old shoe mount flashes)
Are you selling any of them?
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