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Surfer - does this crop work?
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Oct 10, 2021 23:42:36   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
Yes, this version may violate "the classic guidelines of moving into the frame," but it presents a clear exception. The composition, the subject, and the sense of motion call for just this framing to capture what you "saw and felt."

As to the triangles in the posture of the surfer, I didn't see them either at first. They hold the body of the surfer and his board tightly together.

I consider our perception a second way of seeing lying just below our conscoius awareness.
Craigdca wrote:
YES!!!
This is a powerful version of what I saw and felt! I see the triangles now that you’ve pointed them out and will look for these and other points and shapes when composing my shots. It will take patience that will be rewarded in the results.

Even though it breaks the classic guidelines of moving into the frame, I think it all works as it seemed to in the original square crop.

I’m open to seeing other ideas in this practical discussion.
YES!!! img src="https://static.uglyhedgehog.com/i... (show quote)

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Oct 11, 2021 01:37:55   #
R.G. Loc: Scotland
 
Craigdca wrote:
Hi Everyone, thank you for your responses here. I implemented your ideas in this new version of the 16x9 crop. Lowering the highlights reduced the blown out whites although I should try using a polarized filter next time, and desaturating the reds improved the skin tones dramatically. I also reduced the noise further and brought up the shadows. The idea to tighten up the crop from the bottom right seemed to help, and shifted the surfer to the left to take out more of the bright white water that pulled attention away from the surfer.

I'm only disappointed that there wasn't enough detail in the shadows when I snapped the camera. I'm also disappointed that I couldn't zoom in enough to fill the frame as you can see in the full image. I really appreciate that you took the time to share your knowledge that I can apply going forward.

In the meantime, here's the new cropped version and the full image for reference.
Hi Everyone, thank you for your responses here. I ... (show quote)


It's all about intention. If you know that the competition judges have a preference for focused cropping then go for that. However, looking at the original I would say there are other possibilities, and again it depends on your intention or preferences. You may want an action shot but you may also want to keep the photogenic qualities of the shot. For example you may like the translucent green of the wave which is in contrast to the darker sapphire blue of the deeper water at the foot of the wave. And you may have noticed that the wider shot still conveys a sense of movement and action so you don't necessarily have to crop in on the surfer unless you want it to be exclusively about the action. The version that's best for the competition may not be the version that's best for your wall.

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Oct 11, 2021 02:28:01   #
rmalarz Loc: Tempe, Arizona
 
Craig, I'd suggest exploring Expose To The Right/Expose Beyond The Right (ETTR/ETBR) techniques to solve your blown highlights and retaining detail in the shadows. However, these techniques work best if the original captures are in RAW.
--Bob
Craigdca wrote:
Thanks for the follow up, Bob. It helps knowing I’m on the right track. I agree about the bright highlights and hopefully can get a better exposure without losing the shadows too much. The polarized filter might just do the job next time

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Oct 11, 2021 06:13:09   #
selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA
 
zug55 wrote:
I think that R. G.'s advice is very good. I would focus more on the negative space on the right--it makes this a more effective photograph. I would move the crop to give the surfer more empty space to travel into. If you have the option you may try to crop even less, using the same proportions. When I am not sure how to crop I make multiple copies of a photograph and then try different crops until I find the one that works for me.

That's a much more logical crop because it puts the surfer to the left of the center with somewhere to go.

The exposure is actually correct for the chosen ISO (the back-lit water drops are supposed to sparkle). But ISO 800 in this camera looks too noisy. It may have been made worse by too much sharpening.

What the image really needed was more exposure at a lower ISO, for example 1/2000s @ f/8 and ISO 400 or 1/2000s @f/5.6 at ISO 200. That would have reduced the noise on the surfer's body and face. It would have also brought the aperture well below the lens's diffraction limit.

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Oct 11, 2021 10:31:10   #
Paul Diamond Loc: Atlanta, GA, USA
 
To each.... The tightest crop is 'forced.'

The other problem with a closeup of the surfer and board is that it shows focus on the 'subject' is out of focus a bit. With Photoshop, I'd use the sharpen tool as a small brush so I could selectively sharpen at least the edge of the head and face to give it more apparent sharpness and contrast.

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Oct 11, 2021 11:01:23   #
Craigdca Loc: California
 
anotherview wrote:
The UV filter supposedly filters the slight blue hue from an exposure outdoors. I keep one on all my cameras to protect the face of the lens. Your question may trigger some come comments.


I like them for protecting my lenses and have been using them that way, didn’t know they reduced the extra blue hue.

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Oct 11, 2021 11:02:29   #
Craigdca Loc: California
 
zug55 wrote:
Thanks for sharing the original file. Based on that I would suggest a crop that is not as tight. I think that the negative space on the right is quite dramatic.


I could look at this longer than my version as it feels more inviting.

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Oct 11, 2021 11:03:38   #
Craigdca Loc: California
 
R.G. wrote:
It's all about intention. If you know that the competition judges have a preference for focused cropping then go for that. However, looking at the original I would say there are other possibilities, and again it depends on your intention or preferences. You may want an action shot but you may also want to keep the photogenic qualities of the shot. For example you may like the translucent green of the wave which is in contrast to the darker sapphire blue of the deeper water at the foot of the wave. And you may have noticed that the wider shot still conveys a sense of movement and action so you don't necessarily have to crop in on the surfer unless you want it to be exclusively about the action. The version that's best for the competition may not be the version that's best for your wall.
It's all about intention. If you know that the co... (show quote)


Noted

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Oct 11, 2021 11:05:11   #
selmslie Loc: Fernandina Beach, FL, USA
 
Craigdca wrote:
I like them for protecting my lenses and have been using them that way, didn’t know they reduced the extra blue hue.

They filter out invisible UV but hardly any of the visible blue. Unfiltered UV is recorded as haze.

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Oct 11, 2021 11:08:11   #
Craigdca Loc: California
 
rmalarz wrote:
Craig, I'd suggest exploring Expose To The Right/Expose Beyond The Right (ETTR/ETBR) techniques to solve your blown highlights and retaining detail in the shadows. However, these techniques work best if the original captures are in RAW.
--Bob


I love RAW. It maximizes what I can squeeze out of my T2i camera. Should my next camera be another crop sensor such as the rumored R7, or a full frame to gather more information from the shadows when lowering the exposure for such bright whites?

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Oct 11, 2021 11:15:00   #
Craigdca Loc: California
 
selmslie wrote:
That's a much more logical crop because it puts the surfer to the left of the center with somewhere to go.

The exposure is actually correct for the chosen ISO (the back-lit water drops are supposed to sparkle). But ISO 800 in this camera looks too noisy. It may have been made worse by too much sharpening.

What the image really needed was more exposure at a lower ISO, for example 1/2000s @ f/8 and ISO 400 or 1/2000s @f/5.6 at ISO 200. That would have reduced the noise on the surfer's body and face. It would have also brought the aperture well below the lens's diffraction limit.
That's a much more logical crop because it puts th... (show quote)


I think you’re right about the ISO problems with this camera. I think 400 is the best it can do and I went beyond it.

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Oct 11, 2021 11:16:57   #
Craigdca Loc: California
 
Paul Diamond wrote:
To each.... The tightest crop is 'forced.'

The other problem with a closeup of the surfer and board is that it shows focus on the 'subject' is out of focus a bit. With Photoshop, I'd use the sharpen tool as a small brush so I could selectively sharpen at least the edge of the head and face to give it more apparent sharpness and contrast.


Doh! I’ve used that sharpening technique for birds’ eyes but didn’t think of it for this.

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Oct 11, 2021 19:25:35   #
Craigdca Loc: California
 
selmslie wrote:
They filter out invisible UV but hardly any of the visible blue. Unfiltered UV is recorded as haze.


I prefer to avoid haze but have been okay with RawTherapee’s dehaze slider.

I want to learn more about UV filters and found this article that seemed to give a good overview.
https://www.studiobinder.com/blog/uv-protection-lens-filter/

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Oct 14, 2021 09:48:43   #
anotherview Loc: California
 
To each his own when it comes to the desirable rendition of a photograph.

All the same, the central principle of visual balance governs to impact perception. Another principle calls for filling the frame with the subject.

Effective image composition comes first in designing the presentation of a given photograph.

Other concerns, like focus and image noise, while important, come second. The human eye initially sees other elements above these concerns. Perception works that way.
Paul Diamond wrote:
To each.... The tightest crop is 'forced.'

The other problem with a closeup of the surfer and board is that it shows focus on the 'subject' is out of focus a bit. With Photoshop, I'd use the sharpen tool as a small brush so I could selectively sharpen at least the edge of the head and face to give it more apparent sharpness and contrast.

Reply
Oct 22, 2021 16:05:35   #
Hamltnblue Loc: Springfield PA
 
Another thing to consider when cropping is the ratio of the visioned printed pic.
If it is 4x5 (also 8x10, 16x20) try using one of the preset crops in your software.
Then drag your photo inside the crop until you have what you want. Then when it comes time to print, you aren’t disappointed that your selection doesn’t fit correctly.

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