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RAW vs TIFF
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Jul 31, 2021 11:36:02   #
User ID
 
DirtFarmer wrote:
The only exception I can think of is a dng file assuming you consider a dng file a raw file. Edits to a dng file change the preview embedded in the dng file.

Edits involving a dng file DO NOT change the raw data, only the embedded preview. The file is changed, but the data are not.

Does that mean, for instance, that with a DNG where you edited the shadows down to nearly black for an abstract feel and the embedded preview is now showing that dark effect, that you can still dig into those ultra dark areas later on for a more natural look, becuz all the original sensor data is unchanged and still available ?

If the above is affirmative then is there in some way any less potential in a DNG than in a proprietary camera raw file, or are both types essentially equal ?

IOW is the sensor data in a DNG read-only just like in a true raw file, and is accessible for new editing just as with a true raw file ? Further, if you can re-edit from dark abstract to a well adjusted natural look, would that replace the dark abstract preview with a new well adjusted preview ? Seems there could only ever be one embedded preview at any one time.

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Jul 31, 2021 11:44:47   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
User ID wrote:
Does that mean, for instance, that with a DNG where you edited the shadows down to nearly black for an abstract feel and the embedded preview is now showing that dark effect, that you can still dig into those ultra dark areas later on for a more natural look, becuz the sensor data is unchanged and still available ?

IOW is the sensor data in a DNG read-only just like in a true raw file, and is accessible for new editing just as with a true raw file ? Further, if you can re-edit from dark abstract to a well adjusted natural look, would that replace the dark abstract preview with a new well adjusted preview ? Seems there could only ever be one embedded preview at any one time.
Does that mean, for instance, that with a DNG wher... (show quote)


Yes.

The dng is a wrapper for the original raw file, although sometimes compression is applied.

But if you edit the dng you will lose the old embedded preview.

But there’s nothing to prevent you from exporting the old edits before modifying them.

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Jul 31, 2021 12:11:38   #
Ysarex Loc: St. Louis
 
User ID wrote:
Does that mean, for instance, that with a DNG where you edited the shadows down to nearly black for an abstract feel and the embedded preview is now showing that dark effect, that you can still dig into those ultra dark areas later on for a more natural look, becuz all the original sensor data is unchanged and still available ?

If the above is affirmative then is there in some way any less potential in a DNG than in a proprietary camera raw file, or are both types essentially equal ?

IOW is the sensor data in a DNG read-only just like in a true raw file, and is accessible for new editing just as with a true raw file ? Further, if you can re-edit from dark abstract to a well adjusted natural look, would that replace the dark abstract preview with a new well adjusted preview ? Seems there could only ever be one embedded preview at any one time.
Does that mean, for instance, that with a DNG wher... (show quote)

That depends on what's in the DNG. A DNG can contain the original raw data in which case the raw data is read-only and remains accessible for new editing just as the original raw file.

But if the DNG was created to get access to a feature or function for example DXO's prime noise reduction or Adobe's enhanced details feature, etc. then the DNG will not contain the original raw data. It will contain demosiaced RGB image data from which there is no going back.

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Jul 31, 2021 12:32:02   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
kymarto wrote:
In answer not only to this, but previous posts: Tiff is not equal to RAW in terms of processing potentialities. Tiff is an image file, not a pure data file. It is a universally recognized image format that defines each pixel in terms of its chroma and luma values, so that any image-displaying application will know how to color and light each pixel in the image. RAW is raw sensor data, and pixel values exist as potentialities in relation to each other. Once those values are defined and fixed by an image editor, then all the other potentialities are discarded.

Consider a print from a negative: no matter how good a print is, making another print by taking a picture of that will never have the potentiality of printing again from the original negative. But you can't display the negative, or even see the image really. You need a print. Think of the Tiff (or a jpg) as a print. The Tiff has much more data stored, and is not lossy, meaning that pixels are never defined as clumps, but as individual pixels. You can save a lot of space by defining groups of pixels together and giving them the same values. This is what jpg does. Tiff treats pixels as individual.

But there is another level here, and that is bit depth. Tiffs can be saved as 8 bit of 16 bit (also 32 bit, but that is a different story). 16 bit Tiffs still define pixels individually, but with more accuracy. Instead of having one of 256 values, it defines each pixel in terms of 65.536 discrete values for luminosity and for each color channel. It is like having much more resolution. Therefore 16 bit images are much more amenable to post processing, because there are many more in-between values for each pixel.

The reason to make a Tiff is so that you don't have to make it all again from scratch from the RAW every time you need it. And the reason to make it Tiff is so that it is the highest possible quality, that will not further lose quality with subsequent adjustments. Personally I always keep the RAWs, but then I have separate folders of 16 bit Tiffs, so if someone requests an image for some use I can pull it from there immediately. 16 bit Tiffs can be processed pretty radically for different uses, for example if they are needed lighter or darker of with slightly different colors. And all those images are immediately viewable without having to open in a raw editor, which displays them according to its own interpretation of what the pixel values should be. But even so, and even though 16 bit Tiffs are much larger than RAW files, they do not have anywhere near the potential for editing that RAWs do.
In answer not only to this, but previous posts: Ti... (show quote)



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Jul 31, 2021 12:44:45   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
PHRubin wrote:
If I convert a RAW file to TIFF rather than JPG, do I have the same options of salvaging detail in deep shadows as the original RAW file?


The difference is that when editing a TIFF, you can’t “start over” without loss of information. Raw files cannot be altered. We save edited copies in other formats. You can always go back to the source. It’s like having film that you can develop over and over in different developers.

Using a TIFF is like working from a film negative. After initial development from raw, the available information is constrained to what you did during conversion from raw. Any edits are limited by the tones in the TIFF.

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Jul 31, 2021 12:59:56   #
Ysarex Loc: St. Louis
 
PHRubin wrote:
First, NO, I don't have Elements.

My editing experience is limited in some ways. I have mostly worked with JPG files. But I have encountered times where I have seen lost detail in shadows, or the darker portions of the image. So I experimented with DPP4 on a RAW file but got no better results. I suspected that DPP4 may not be powerful enough, or I'm not familiar enough with it. So I thought I might try converting the RAW file with DPP4 to something lossless then editing it in another editor. My copy of Photoshop is quite old, it is version 7 and I haven't even tried to work a RAW file from my 80D thinking it wouldn't have the CODEC.
First, NO, I don't have Elements. br br My editin... (show quote)

Yes, that's will be an effective way to work and can give you equivalent access to the shadow detail compared with using a raw processor that works with the raw file directly (DPP works with the raw file directly.) Given that DPP knows what Canon knows you may in fact come out ahead.

You need to set it up in DPP to start when creating the 16 bit TIFF.
Get the WB right.
Set the Picture Style to Neutral.
Click auto in Gamma adjustment and then go to the histogram and pull the left limit (triangle) as far left as it will go.
In Advanced make the Shadow value 5.
Back to the Gamma adjustment histogram and consider pulling the midpoint slider to the left -- the photo will get lighter and the shadows will continue to open up. Exercise discretion but you want to end up with a too light and flat looking image.
Save as a 16 bit TIFF and head for Photoshop.

I'll do an example and post it.

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Jul 31, 2021 13:03:40   #
dbrugger25 Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
I would make a renamed copy of the original RAW file and convert the copy into a TIFF file. I never erase a RAW tile that interests me. If your drive becomes filled you can save files to inexpensive USB chips or external hard drives.

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Jul 31, 2021 13:09:15   #
DirtFarmer Loc: Escaped from the NYC area, back to MA
 
dbrugger25 wrote:
I would make a renamed copy of the original RAW file and convert the copy into a TIFF file. I never erase a RAW tile that interests me. If your drive becomes filled you can save files to inexpensive USB chips or external hard drives.


Not sure why you'd go to that trouble.

You can certainly convert a raw file to a tif in an editor, but the raw file will not be changed. Why do you need to make a renamed copy of it? And the tif doesn't give you any real advantages when you go to edit it again. Better to use the raw.

Having said all that, it's a good idea to make copies of your raw files for backup. No need to rename them.

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Jul 31, 2021 13:16:11   #
mwsilvers Loc: Central New Jersey
 
DirtFarmer wrote:
Not sure why you'd go to that trouble.

You can certainly convert a raw file to a tif in an editor, but the raw file will not be changed. Why do you need to make a renamed copy of it? And the tif doesn't give you any real advantages when you go to edit it again. Better to use the raw.

Having said all that, it's a good idea to make copies of your raw files for backup. No need to rename them.



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Jul 31, 2021 13:41:39   #
User ID
 
dbrugger25 wrote:
I would make a renamed copy of the original RAW file and convert the copy into a TIFF file. I never erase a RAW tile that interests me. If your drive becomes filled you can save files to inexpensive USB chips or external hard drives.


But acoarst, always always, for all files !!!

Never archive *anything* on the principal drive or any partition within it. Everything outboard. Long sad threads about storage disasters are toadally boring.

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Jul 31, 2021 13:54:10   #
joecichjr Loc: Chicago S. Suburbs, Illinois, USA
 
mwsilvers wrote:
This is what you can do with raw files. You can't do it with jpegs and you can't do as well with tiff files. Select download to view them at full resolution.


Amazing difference - and even more beautiful ⭐💫⭐

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Jul 31, 2021 14:02:22   #
PHRubin Loc: Nashville TN USA
 
Ysarex wrote:
Yes, that's will be an effective way to work and can give you equivalent access to the shadow detail compared with using a raw processor that works with the raw file directly (DPP works with the raw file directly.) Given that DPP knows what Canon knows you may in fact come out ahead.

You need to set it up in DPP to start when creating the 16 bit TIFF.
Get the WB right.
Set the Picture Style to Neutral.
Click auto in Gamma adjustment and then go to the histogram and pull the left limit (triangle) as far left as it will go.
In Advanced make the Shadow value 5.
Back to the Gamma adjustment histogram and consider pulling the midpoint slider to the left -- the photo will get lighter and the shadows will continue to open up. Exercise discretion but you want to end up with a too light and flat looking image.
Save as a 16 bit TIFF and head for Photoshop.

I'll do an example and post it.
Yes, that's will be an effective way to work and c... (show quote)


Thanks for the hints. It saved me some trial and error time. However, the final result is, so far, no better than if I edit the JPG that came from the camera when I had RAW+JPG chosen which was quicker. Perhaps I am more familiar with my JPG editor where using the gamma control usually does it or the scene/photo didn't have the dynamic range to benefit. (BTW - the TIFF was 137.5 MB)

Also - NO, I don't have Lightroom and Photoshop 7 can't read the RAW file

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Jul 31, 2021 14:36:47   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
kymarto wrote:
Space is cheap these days, and TIFFs are much more amenable to modifications than JPG, if adjustment is needed depending on the use of the image, instead of starting the whole process again from the RAW.


Who cares if space is cheap?
My Raw have the information saved next to them so there is NO starting over.
And adjusting a JPEG a bit is NO big issue.

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Jul 31, 2021 14:39:10   #
jdmiles Loc: Texas
 
Lossless just means it does not throw any info away when tiff algorithms are executed.When you do a jpeg it is compressed and to save space it does throw info away. Being lossless does not mean it hasn't thrown info away in the process of creating the tiff. Images captured with full dynamic range would need to be carefully converted to tiff. Just using a dumb conversion program to convert from raw to tiff would be a bad idea.

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Jul 31, 2021 14:50:50   #
Architect1776 Loc: In my mind
 
jdmiles wrote:
Lossless just means it does not throw any info away when tiff algorithms are executed.When you do a jpeg it is compressed and to save space it does throw info away. Being lossless does not mean it hasn't thrown info away in the process of creating the tiff. Images captured with full dynamic range would need to be carefully converted to tiff. Just using a dumb conversion program to convert from raw to tiff would be a bad idea.



So why bother?

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