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Frames vs. Mats
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Jan 16, 2021 10:38:51   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
photoman022 wrote:
I don't know why a company selling mat board won't sell the size advertised BUT I do know why 2x4 lumber is called 2x4 (although it is smaller). The lumber is measured to the stated size while it is wet and is then dried (either air dried or kiln dried); when the lumber dries it shrinks. As you say, anyone who's ever worked with lumber knows that it is smaller than the nominal size.


It’s not the air drying that’s causing the change in dimensions (although I’m sure there is some change) - it’s the planing of each surface to turn rough lumber into finished lumber...

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Jan 16, 2021 10:48:44   #
Quixdraw Loc: x
 
Check Blick Art Supplies - Dexter Mat Cutter. Have had & used one for decades.

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Jan 16, 2021 11:10:34   #
Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States
 
TomHackett wrote:
Sorry, it was not 2" off. I said 30.05 when I meant 32.05. The discrepancy was 0.05", not 2.05". As I said in the OP, .05" or 3/64" does not matter that much. It's the .125" on the 40" side that bothers me.

By the way, I noticed that Hobby Lobby advertises 32"x40" foam cores that they even say are 32.125"x40.125".

That's 3mm off.
Never had a problem with mats mating with frames.
All the frames I've have usually turned out to be a scosh larger than the mat.
Guess I've been lucky.

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Jan 16, 2021 11:27:54   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
Longshadow wrote:
That's 3mm off.
Never had a problem with mats mating with frames.
All the frames I've have usually turned out to be a scosh larger than the mat.
Guess I've been lucky.


Not lucky, that's normal. And I would think Matt's would be a scosh smaller, outside.

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Jan 16, 2021 11:36:38   #
TomHackett Loc: Kingston, New York
 
bleirer wrote:
I think the OP didn't order a mat, but some mat board, which is intended to be cut into one or several finished mats. I agree that it they ordered a 32 x 40 mat it should fit a 32x40 frame. But given that every material 'moves' with humidity and/or temperature, it's probably better they give a touch more when you order raw materials. Also wood doesn't move much with humidity along its long dimension, but it does move a little, so you'd need some tolerance there too. Indoors in the winter it's going to be it's smallest.
I think the OP didn't order a mat, but some mat bo... (show quote)


You make a good point. This is the first time I've used the entire 32"x40" for the finished mat. Given the cost factor, I'm not in a position to pay someone to cut a 32+"x40+" mat to exactly 32"x40". (And I generally don't want to do that myself.). So, I need to find mat board that is already 32"x40" +/- 1/16". In digging through my existing supply, I found one manufacturer's mat board that fits this specification. I will use them (Crescent) in the future. When I find myself needing foam core, I'll experiment to find a manufacturer who supplies to that spec. as well.

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Jan 16, 2021 11:41:54   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
TomHackett wrote:
You make a good point. This is the first time I've used the entire 32"x40" for the finished mat. Given the cost factor, I'm not in a position to pay someone to cut a 32+"x40+" mat to exactly 32"x40". (And I generally don't want to do that myself.). So, I need to find mat board that is already 32"x40" +/- 1/16". In digging through my existing supply, I found one manufacturer's mat board that fits this specification. I will use them (Crescent) in the future. When I find myself needing foam core, I'll experiment to find a manufacturer who supplies to that spec. as well.
You make a good point. This is the first time I'v... (show quote)


Foam board us super easy to cut yourself. Straight edge and razor knife. Just going try to make the cut in one cut, go two or three, for a smooth cut.

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Jan 16, 2021 11:44:59   #
Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States
 
frankraney wrote:
Not lucky, that's normal. And I would think Matt's would be a scosh smaller, outside.

(my point.)

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Jan 16, 2021 11:49:01   #
lsupremo Loc: Palm Desert, CA
 
TomHackett wrote:
I am working toward an installation of about a dozen photographs, 20"x30" each. With mats, the whole assembly will measure 32"x40". So, I ordered frames 32"x40". They came with foam cores and acrylic glazing. Each piece measured exactly 32"x40". The acrylic and foam core fits snugly into the frame, of course. Delightful!

I also ordered mat board in size 32"x40". Unfortunately, the actual size turns out to be 30.05"x40.125". In order to fit the mats into the frames, I have to try to force them in, potentially damaging the frames or the mats, or both. I can live with the extra 3/64" on the short side, but the extra 1/8" on the long side is driving me nuts. I find myself trimming off the extra 1/8". With my modest tools and even more modest skills, this usually means expending a considerable amount of energy and producing a ragged edge.

Why do companies (the mats come from a very reputable company) insist on giving us such a "bonus?" I understand that 2" x 4" lumber isn't really 2" x 4', but I believe there's some rationale for that. (I've probably heard the story, but it doesn't stick with me.) Everyone accepts that and has learned to live with it. But why is 32" x 40" actually 30.05" x 40.125"?

I often buy my foam cores separately from my frames. I buy them 32" x 40" (nominal), since I can get a half dozen 11" x 14" cores from one sheet more inexpensively than purchasing six individual foam cores pre-cut to 11" x 14". I've noticed a discrepancy before, but attributed it to my lazy measuring habits. Besides there's scrap on both sides, so it never really mattered.

Why is this?

Tom
I am working toward an installation of about a doz... (show quote)


The reason is because, in most of the world they do everything in metric and their products in the US are stated as close as they can in inches.

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Jan 16, 2021 12:25:18   #
TomHackett Loc: Kingston, New York
 
lsupremo wrote:
The reason is because, in most of the world they do everything in metric and their products in the US are stated as close as they can in inches.


Good point. The mat board in question came from the UK.

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Jan 16, 2021 12:31:41   #
bleirer
 
TomHackett wrote:
You make a good point. This is the first time I've used the entire 32"x40" for the finished mat. Given the cost factor, I'm not in a position to pay someone to cut a 32+"x40+" mat to exactly 32"x40". (And I generally don't want to do that myself.). So, I need to find mat board that is already 32"x40" +/- 1/16". In digging through my existing supply, I found one manufacturer's mat board that fits this specification. I will use them (Crescent) in the future. When I find myself needing foam core, I'll experiment to find a manufacturer who supplies to that spec. as well.
You make a good point. This is the first time I'v... (show quote)


These guys have a quantity discount for 5+, with a matching backer board if desired. https://www.matboardplus.com/mat-boards/

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Jan 16, 2021 13:35:48   #
rcarol
 
photoman022 wrote:
I don't know why a company selling mat board won't sell the size advertised BUT I do know why 2x4 lumber is called 2x4 (although it is smaller). The lumber is measured to the stated size while it is wet and is then dried (either air dried or kiln dried); when the lumber dries it shrinks. As you say, anyone who's ever worked with lumber knows that it is smaller than the nominal size.


Not quite. 2" X 4" lumber is that size after being rough sawn at the mill. After being kiln-dried, the rough-hewn lumber is planed on all four sides to make it smooth resulting in dimensions less than 2" X 4".

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Jan 16, 2021 13:46:44   #
chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
photoman022 wrote:
I don't know why a company selling mat board won't sell the size advertised BUT I do know why 2x4 lumber is called 2x4 (although it is smaller). The lumber is measured to the stated size while it is wet and is then dried (either air dried or kiln dried); when the lumber dries it shrinks. As you say, anyone who's ever worked with lumber knows that it is smaller than the nominal size.


...point of order: the lumber is cut at what's called "nominal" dimensions (i.e. 2x4 "nominally" is 1.5x3.5 inches) at the mill. Yes, it will shrink over time but not that much. I've framed with studs that were so wet water would splash on the last hit driving a nail in, and they were cut at 1.5x3.5 and would dry in place (that was a long time ago when I was learning during the tract boom here in SoCal). No way can you depend on shrinkage to determine finish lumber size. I've also demo'd and/or worked on structures with "real" 2x4's that are actually those dimensions...and younger structures where the wood is 1.75x3.75 inches, showing that the industry indeed changed with the times...and got more and more pieces out of a log!

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Jan 16, 2021 13:59:50   #
photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA
 
To all those who took issue with my explanation of why 2x4s are not really 2x4: Your argument is really with Charles Woods, my 9th Grade wood shop teacher (yes, that was his real name) and his explanation why 1-by-lumber was really 3/4 inch thick. We used to call him "Wood Chuck" (when he wasn't around).

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Jan 16, 2021 14:28:04   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
I have a custom framing service in my studio. We join mouldings, cut mattes, mount photographs and other artwork, stretch canvas on bars, and fit artwork in all kinds of frames. Precise measuring and having the right hardware and tools are of the utmost importance in avoiding waste, damage and frustration.

If you order mattes from a custom shop and measure them carefully, they should be able to precisely conform to your specifications. If for some reason they allow a small measure of extra material it is easy enough to trim it as per the tip below. Trimming can be problematic if you are leaving additional space at the bottom of a matte and you have to trim it off- so measure carefully and allow a margin for error. You can always trim a small sliver off but you can't add it on if it is too short.

If you use pre-manufactured stock frames in a specific size such as 11x14, 30x4, etc. there is usually an allowance for a small amount of additional space to avoid force-fitting and damage to the artwork and frame mitering. If you order custom frames, you should all for the additional margin as well- I usually allow 1/8" so everything drops into the channel easily and held in place by the appropriate brads (small nails), glazers points, or brackets.

I order Foam-Cor in 4' x 8' sheets in cases of 24 and cut to size as required- it's more economical than purchasing small sheets.

An important tip: When cutting Foam-Cor, Cor-Plast matte board pr other similar materials use a metal straight edge as a guide and a sharp matte knife with a fresh blade and a large angled grip handle. Do not attempt to cut through in one stroke but make several cuts with moderate pressure. You will achieve a clean precise cut with no ragged edges.

If you do a lot of framing, investing in a few "right tools for the job" will pay off. A good straight edge, the kind of knife I recommended and a gun that inserts brads, glazers points or special framing staples will save materials waste and make for an easy production.

You know the adage- somethg like "measure once cut twice- measure twice- cut once"!





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Jan 16, 2021 14:29:23   #
chasgroh Loc: Buena Park, CA
 
photoman022 wrote:
To all those who took issue with my explanation of why 2x4s are not really 2x4: Your argument is really with Charles Woods, my 9th Grade wood shop teacher (yes, that was his real name) and his explanation why 1-by-lumber was really 3/4 inch thick. We used to call him "Wood Chuck" (when he wasn't around).


...uh, not "arguing" at all, brother, I'm a working (42 years) carpenter and I know my business. I think you, the student, misunderstood Mr. Woods...which is entirely possible for a 9th grader; and definitely possible after a few decades. ;0)

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