Kaowdo wrote:
I'm a senior, and I'm very new to all this. I got a Canon DSLR SL1 to take jewelry photo's. I got a very nice 'light tent'...with built in lights. My Camera did not come with a flash attachment. I've been reading up on Aperatures. Less Aperatures...more light. Should I get a flash attachment, or can I make it work with using Aperatures?
Thanks in advance
When I was assisting back in the '90's, I worked with a photographer who shot ads for Helzberg jewelers.
He shot 8 x 10 film, but his lighting technique would work no matter what kind of camera was used.
Most of his layouts had several items, so the set was pretty big for the subject, shooting an area that was maybe about 11 x 14 inches.
He used powerful strobe lighting fired through a large
softbox, with a diffusion panel between that and the subject.
One key thing he added were some small spot lights to make the jewelry sparkle.
Without that, it would look pretty dead by comparison.
Because everything needed to be in focus, a small
aperture (that's how it's spelled) was used for better depth of field. I'm guessing it was possibly f/64 or so. (pretty common with a large format lens) The small aperture required several pops of the strobe for proper exposure while the shutter was open. When shooting, all the ambient lighting was turned off.
That's one way the pro's did it.
There may be others.
A light tent would get you pretty good results and you could use your continuous lights or a speedlight (flash) shot through the diffusion panels of the light tent. Wouldn't have to worry as much with camera shake, but ideally, a tripod should be used.
With your relatively smaller-sensored camera, the aperture doesn't have to be as small for good depth of field, and if your subject is in the same plane, getting it all in focus should be easy.
Some advantages to using flash is that it's way more powerful than most continuous lighting letting you use a lower ISO and the actual exposure is A brief duration so you don't have to use longer shutter settings. You can't see the lighting until you shoot, but have an almost instant way to view your results on the LCD screen. Quicker and
MUCH cheaper than 8 x 10 Polaroids.