Light source for converting slides to digital
Sep 11, 2020 16:46:08 #
I have a lot of slides and also early 1900's black and white negatives that need to be converted to digital. I am wanting to make or purchase a light box or light table so that I can photograph the slides.
My question concerns the light source behind the slide. Most sources say to use a daylight ( 5K - 6K) bulb or led. Nothing is ever mentioned about the brightness or lumens needed to accurately reproduce the slide. Daylight bulbs I have seen range from 500 to 2000 lumens. If to dim the colors can't be seen and if to bright the colors will appear washed out.
Is there a correct brightness for this or is it just personal preference and trial-and-error?
My question concerns the light source behind the slide. Most sources say to use a daylight ( 5K - 6K) bulb or led. Nothing is ever mentioned about the brightness or lumens needed to accurately reproduce the slide. Daylight bulbs I have seen range from 500 to 2000 lumens. If to dim the colors can't be seen and if to bright the colors will appear washed out.
Is there a correct brightness for this or is it just personal preference and trial-and-error?
Sep 11, 2020 16:50:14 #
The light, whatever source, should not be directly behind the slide. Some diffuser, such as a plain piece of white paper, should be between the source and slide.
Sep 11, 2020 17:10:22 #
Go with your cameras exposure meter. Tweak in PP. Keep it simple. 😉.
Sep 11, 2020 17:33:23 #
Bluefish wrote:
Go with your cameras exposure meter. Tweak in PP. Keep it simple. 😉.
Initially shoot one or two, adjust from there.
Sep 11, 2020 17:52:06 #
John Ryberg wrote:
I have a lot of slides and also early 1900's black... (show quote)
You might consider getting a scanner that can do slides and film. Much more manageable and no additional optics to degrade the image.
Sep 11, 2020 18:27:08 #
As Gene51 notes, a scanner may be your best bet, depending on the numbers. I have over 15K slides and negatives in a number of formats (35mm, to medium format, to 4x5), and I ended up with the Epson V850. It came with two sets of negative/transparency holders, and has been extremely handy. I still shoot film, so it doesn't sit around gathering dust.
The Epson software is good, as are some additional packages such as VueScan and SilverFast. It took some experimenting to get the right results. The algorithms with each software package have their own strengths and biases; Ektachrome scans differently between them, as do the negatives.
The Epson software is good, as are some additional packages such as VueScan and SilverFast. It took some experimenting to get the right results. The algorithms with each software package have their own strengths and biases; Ektachrome scans differently between them, as do the negatives.
Sep 11, 2020 19:21:12 #
Gene51 wrote:
You might consider getting a scanner that can do slides and film. Much more manageable and no additional optics to degrade the image.
I have a Nikon Cool Scan 9000 but my laptop does not have the 1394 fire wire connection needed to use it. I'm planning on getting a desktop from Puget Systems but that won't be until the first of the year.
I do a lot of family history and the slides were my dad's. I don't know some of the people in them so I would like to photograph the slides so some of my older relatives who aren't local can identify them. With their advanced age, distance and current Covid situation I would like this to happen soon. With my current computer situation I feel taking a photograph would be the quickest solution until I can properly scan them. Because of this is why I posted the original question about source light color and brightness if I was to make my own light box
Sep 11, 2020 21:23:38 #
therwol
Loc: USA
John Ryberg wrote:
I have a Nikon Cool Scan 9000 but my laptop does n... (show quote)
I've done it both ways, scanner and taking photos. If you want to buy an old school light box, look at this one. It is 18x24 and uses three x 20 watt 6000k fluorescent bulbs. The top is thick Plexiglas, and there are no hot spots. Since the Plexiglas is not perfectly flat, I put a piece of glass over it. I would look into LED options if I were doing this again. This thing takes up a lot of room.
https://www.amazon.com/Inovart-Lumina-Light-Inches-Gray/dp/B00PPAA6AO/ref=sxts_sxwds-bia-wc-p13n1_0?cv_ct_cx=light+box&dchild=1&keywords=light+box&pd_rd_i=B00PPAA6AO&pd_rd_r=1081f08c-7a43-4f80-889c-d700c46c6c85&pd_rd_w=rReea&pd_rd_wg=efAI0&pf_rd_p=e7ea7987-56a0-4822-adda-f67db5e22b16&pf_rd_r=16M4F5JXD1WFC487HMJC&psc=1&qid=1599873520&sr=1-1-791c2399-d602-4248-afbb-8a79de2d236f
Sep 12, 2020 08:35:20 #
I have read on more than one posting using your PC as a light post. The suggestion was to open MS Word to a blank document which will give you a white screen and using that as your light source. Worth a try before purchasing something else.
Sep 12, 2020 08:38:51 #
Gene51 wrote:
You might consider getting a scanner that can do slides and film. Much more manageable and no additional optics to degrade the image.
Amen Gene......so much better than the old methods. That SHIP has SAILED........
Sep 12, 2020 08:46:38 #
Lots of ideas -
https://www.diyphotography.net/old-slides-want-scan-cheap-easy-way-home/
http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/slide-copy-adapters/es-1-slide-copying-adapter-for-52mm-thread.html
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-448681-1.html#7548235
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-457230-1.html#7687881
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.photos.scanner&hl=en
http://opteka.com/slidecopier.aspx
https://smile.amazon.com/Wolverine-Super-20MP-Digital-Converter/dp/B00GIDADP0/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8
http://www.scancafe.com/services/slide-scanning
https://www.diyphotography.net/old-slides-want-scan-cheap-easy-way-home/
http://www.nikonusa.com/en/nikon-products/product/slide-copy-adapters/es-1-slide-copying-adapter-for-52mm-thread.html
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-448681-1.html#7548235
http://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-457230-1.html#7687881
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.photos.scanner&hl=en
http://opteka.com/slidecopier.aspx
https://smile.amazon.com/Wolverine-Super-20MP-Digital-Converter/dp/B00GIDADP0/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8
http://www.scancafe.com/services/slide-scanning
Sep 12, 2020 09:30:50 #
John Ryberg wrote:
I have a lot of slides and also early 1900's black... (show quote)
See the Film Community blog at http://www.negativelabpro.com for lots of ideas. I’ve adapted an iPhone 7 Plus, but there are better options.
Sep 12, 2020 09:35:57 #
You might find a better path to accomplishing this in purchasing a scanner. I prefer Epson products for scanning negatives and slides.
--Bob
--Bob
John Ryberg wrote:
I have a lot of slides and also early 1900's black... (show quote)
Sep 12, 2020 09:43:22 #
StanMac
Loc: Tennessee
Rather than setting up a Rube Goldberg assemblage of parts and pieces to hold your slides, camera, and lighting, why not invest in a scanner that will do the job. I bought an Epson V500 years ago for less than $200 and found it does a very good job on slides, negatives, and prints - easy peasy.
Stan
Stan
Sep 12, 2020 09:50:50 #
John Ryberg wrote:
I have a lot of slides and also early 1900's black... (show quote)
Light intensity will make NO difference to the final result because you will adjust your camera settings for the correct exposure. However a brighter source will allow you to use lower ISO for less noise, a higher shutter speed to avoid shake and/or a, smaller aperture for more depth of field and better resolution.
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