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Do You Use Your Histogram
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Jun 30, 2020 09:38:40   #
photoman022 Loc: Manchester CT USA
 
I never use my histogram. In my landscape photography I always expose for the highlights and will combine images in post-processing to give me an image very close to what I actually photographed. I shoot in RAW.

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Jun 30, 2020 09:48:09   #
Blaster34 Loc: Florida Treasure Coast
 
BooIsMyCat wrote:
I think you too, misunderstood my comment about motion.


Not to worry Boo, every technical post is parsed and parsed again so it CAN be misunderstood....just have to go with the flow and the misunderstood comments...

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Jun 30, 2020 09:59:22   #
frankraney Loc: Clovis, Ca.
 
BooIsMyCat wrote:
I have been reading up on the use of histograms and find one issue missing - motion.

Most articles end with something like: "Never use your LCD for exposure again!" or something to that effect but, can you expose your image using the histogram when your subject is moving? Sounds pretty obvious but, for beginning photographers, this glaring omission could frustrate the daylights out of the newbie.

Do you use your histogram in your photography or is it a tool that is overlooked and left alone in the Menu section of your camera?
I have been reading up on the use of histograms an... (show quote)



The histogram is used to verify exposure only. It has nothing to do with motion, which is shutter speed and a focus issue.

Yes I use the histogram on every shot. I set my exposure by light meter play I think I want the photo and then I checked the histogram to see that it is correctly exposed. If not I make an adjustment.

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Jun 30, 2020 11:37:02   #
Charles 46277 Loc: Fulton County, KY
 
camerapapi wrote:
Well, I am sure by now a newbie is totally confused with the myriad of answers the OP has received. A question like this is going to generate lots of answers and we are all different and we all have our own ways of doing our photography.

A histogram, and it has been said already is an aid to exposure and distribution of pixels in the image. A color histogram gives an excellent indication for the colors in the three channels, red, green and blue. It seems to be the most accurate.

With my mirrorless cameras I often look at the histogram, not so often with my dSLR bodies. Editing in post does not make miracles, if the bright areas are blown off no processing is going to bring them back and other tonalities will be also affected. Expose for an important bright area and the chances are excellent the exposure will be OK for ALL tonalities. Film is different but we are not discussing film here. If using my dSLR bodies I find the exposure difficult then I look at the histogram in camera and do the same if exposing to the right.
Well, I am sure by now a newbie is totally confuse... (show quote)


Do you suggest that exposing for the highlights is the guide (as when we used slide film)? How would you compare using the histogram to using spot readings (for zone placement more or less) for exposure settings? The histogram does not tell us what areas are clipped, though I admit that high under or over readings should be self-evident from the view...

Isn't a histogram likely to indicate the same settings as an automatic exposure reading--and does it meter by the camera's meter-setting (spot, center, average, center weighted)? Surely the histogram is telling us what the camera meter sees?

Does a histogram tell you how much more or less exposure you need, or do you have to test shoot for that? I am not sure what good it does to know that there is a bit of pure black or a bit of pure white in a scene--that seems to me pretty common--and knowing how much of each extreme a scene has can be discovered by more direct means (spot readings), if not by experience... However, I will try tinkering with histograms to see if they help. Most people intuit that a white bloom against dark green foliage needs exposure considerations--and if that is all the histogram tells me, I can do without.
I have never tried using histograms because I can't change the scene--if it has too much dark and too much light, I wait for haze or cloud, or another day, or maybe change the light. If it is one or the other (dark or light), I may use a gray card--or the f-16 rule (and count down the stops from full sun), which are incident-method, and let the clips fall where they may. I do try to tweak contrast in PS to the degree that the top highlights are pure white and the bottom shadows are good, rich black...

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Jun 30, 2020 11:39:55   #
timcc Loc: Virginia
 
I'll check the histogram in the EVF if the lighting has a wide range, but in manual I usually just expose for the highlights. The histogram is the first thing I look at in post, though.

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Jun 30, 2020 13:23:22   #
BooIsMyCat Loc: Somewhere
 
frankraney wrote:
The histogram is used to verify exposure only. It has nothing to do with motion, which is shutter speed and a focus issue.

Yes I use the histogram on every shot. I set my exposure by light meter play I think I want the photo and then I checked the histogram to see that it is correctly exposed. If not I make an adjustment.


Please reread my comment. I never made any statement that the histogram and motion are connected.
Thank you.

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Jun 30, 2020 13:27:01   #
BooIsMyCat Loc: Somewhere
 
Charles 46277 wrote:
Do you suggest that exposing for the highlights is the guide (as when we used slide film)? How would you compare using the histogram to using spot readings (for zone placement more or less) for exposure settings? The histogram does not tell us what areas are clipped, though I admit that high under or over readings should be self-evident from the view...

Isn't a histogram likely to indicate the same settings as an automatic exposure reading--and does it meter by the camera's meter-setting (spot, center, average, center weighted)? Surely the histogram is telling us what the camera meter sees?

Does a histogram tell you how much more or less exposure you need, or do you have to test shoot for that? I am not sure what good it does to know that there is a bit of pure black or a bit of pure white in a scene--that seems to me pretty common--and knowing how much of each extreme a scene has can be discovered by more direct means (spot readings), if not by experience... However, I will try tinkering with histograms to see if they help. Most people intuit that a white bloom against dark green foliage needs exposure considerations--and if that is all the histogram tells me, I can do without.
I have never tried using histograms because I can't change the scene--if it has too much dark and too much light, I wait for haze or cloud, or another day, or maybe change the light. If it is one or the other (dark or light), I may use a gray card--or the f-16 rule (and count down the stops from full sun), which are incident-method, and let the clips fall where they may. I do try to tweak contrast in PS to the degree that the top highlights are pure white and the bottom shadows are good, rich black...
Do you suggest that exposing for the highlights is... (show quote)


It is my current understanding that the RGB histogram is the one you want to use and as you LOOK at this histogram, you identify the R/G/B channel that is furthest to the right and you adjust exposure for THAT channel, basically, ignoring the others.

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Jun 30, 2020 14:24:28   #
LewSpecker
 
If the image appears too light or dark, adjusting the EV will alter the histogram. The histogam is always a good feed back to where you are.

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Jun 30, 2020 14:36:25   #
its_yoshie
 
yep. well said

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Jun 30, 2020 16:41:13   #
fotoman150
 
I use the meter in the camera before I shoot and after I take a shot I ALWAYS check the histogram to make sure the exposure is what I want.

Notice I didn’t say to check the histogram to see if the exposure is correct. I may not be looking for 18% grey.

The histogram will tell me if there are any pixels that are over or under exposed or if the image is bright, dark or average.

If I want a silouette the histogram will show a lot of pixels dark or under exposed. The opposite will be true if I’m shooting high key or bright image. Sometimes I want to overexpose on purpose.

I may check it once or twice then not again unless the light changes or if I want to accomplish something else with the exposure.

Makes no difference if the subject is moving. The shot will be a still shot. You are only going to get one exposure per shutter click. All the nonsense about the subject moving to lighter or darker areas is bs. What the camera sees when you click the shutter is what you get. That exposure you capture can’t magically change after the subject has moved. Only if you take another shot after the subject moves.

Now if you’re talking about a live histogram, how are you going to keep the moving subject in the frame and maintain composition if you’re watching the histogram to make sure the exposure is what you want before you press the shutter button? The live histogram is more useful Before the shot. Then the histogram is useful again after the shot.
As I said, I check the meter before and check the histogram after.

I’ve heard of some pros who never check it. I always check it

The reason to check the histogram is the LCD screen is inaccurate in some lighting conditions and the screen is not calibrated.

In some cameras the overexposed areas will blink on the LCD screen so you know right away where the overexposure is.

One way I use the histogram is if I’m shooting a bride and I don’t want to overexpose the dress I will check the he meter, take the shot and check the histogram. Some people shoot brides in a kind of light and airy style and shoot high key. Not my style. I understand that some of the light and airy style is done in post processing.

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Jun 30, 2020 16:50:58   #
BooIsMyCat Loc: Somewhere
 
Blaster34 wrote:
Not to worry Boo, every technical post is parsed and parsed again so it CAN be misunderstood....just have to go with the flow and the misunderstood comments...


LOL! I think you're right!

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Jun 30, 2020 16:53:40   #
BooIsMyCat Loc: Somewhere
 
gvarner wrote:
A moving subject may create an ever-changing range of exposure situations involving light and shadow. Matrix metering May help with that. The key word is "may".


Or, Evaluative metering may help too! :-)

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Jun 30, 2020 17:14:33   #
mgshn
 
I look at the histogram of an exposed image to make sure there’s no blown highlights. That’s something that can’t be fixed in post.

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Jun 30, 2020 19:54:59   #
DanielB Loc: San Diego, Ca
 
morkie1891 wrote:
Motion is a focus issue. Histograms will get you to the desired exposure but do nothing relative to focus.


Exactly right - I use my histogram to check my exposure.

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Jun 30, 2020 21:34:50   #
smussler Loc: Land O Lakes, FL - Formerly Miller Place, NY
 
BooIsMyCat wrote:
I have been reading up on the use of histograms and find one issue missing - motion.

Most articles end with something like: "Never use your LCD for exposure again!" or something to that effect but, can you expose your image using the histogram when your subject is moving? Sounds pretty obvious but, for beginning photographers, this glaring omission could frustrate the daylights out of the newbie.

Do you use your histogram in your photography or is it a tool that is overlooked and left alone in the Menu section of your camera?
I have been reading up on the use of histograms an... (show quote)


I use Highlight warnings, don't really understand histograms. I am a newbee to DSLR's. I am not following - AT ALL - what glaring omission that you are referring to.
I have read quite a few articles on Histograms. I am a bit frustrated in trying to understand them better, but moving subjects? Not following . . .

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