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Indoor Sports Photography- Suggestions on a Budget
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Jan 15, 2020 08:46:21   #
dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia
 
Harry0 wrote:
El cheapo, just because ...
Get a decent sized lens hood.
Indoor venues can be fairly bright- because there's a LOT of overhead lights.
Near courtside is kewl- until you shoot upwards at the basket.


Indoor use of a lens hood is also good because of the other people moving about.

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Jan 15, 2020 08:49:55   #
LWW Loc: REDLEGS NATION
 
dsmeltz wrote:
Indoor use of a lens hood is also good because of the other people moving about.


I won't argue that ... until someone starts arguing that its a substitute for fast glass.

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Jan 15, 2020 08:56:55   #
dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia
 
LWW wrote:
I won't argue that ... until someone starts arguing that its a substitute for fast glass.


I am not sure how that argument would go. Maybe;

"Hey the lens hood makes my lens longer, right? So if it is longer, I can get in tighter and get a better shot!"


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Jan 15, 2020 09:36:11   #
LFingar Loc: Claverack, NY
 
Webbie62 wrote:
Thanks - That is encouraging. My shots are similar, with similar lighting and some blur on most. On occasion I can get a good shot. I think with all the pages of response, I have been taking notes. Thanks again.


If you are getting blurred shots that would be related to shutter speed and not to lighting flicker. At least not directly since light levels at the time of metering will affect shutter speed unless you have set it to a specific value. That in turn can produce blur, but the more likely culprit would be the shutter speed you are trying to shoot at. Flicker will give you variations in the exposure level of your shots. Slow shutter will produce blur. You might try this: Shoot in Manual with the shutter speed between 1/500 and 1/1000 (I prefer 1/1000 but at f/1.2 I can keep my ISO within reason. You may not be able to.). Set Aperture at it's widest and set ISO to Auto.
That combo gives me results I am quite happy with though there are probably as many ways to shoot a scene as there are photographers. Using manual settings as much as practical can help isolate and identify a problem.

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Jan 15, 2020 09:37:04   #
LFingar Loc: Claverack, NY
 
dsmeltz wrote:
I am not sure how that argument would go. Maybe;

"Hey the lens hood makes my lens longer, right? So if it is longer, I can get in tighter and get a better shot!"



Any idiot knows that!

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Jan 15, 2020 10:40:36   #
LWW Loc: REDLEGS NATION
 
dsmeltz wrote:
I am not sure how that argument would go. Maybe;

"Hey the lens hood makes my lens longer, right? So if it is longer, I can get in tighter and get a better shot!"



We all learn things as we go and we all learned things as we went that we later learned were wrong.

My HS indoor rig is:

- D7200 with MB-D15 grip which gives two fully charged batteries.

- Photo vest. NIKON used to make the VESTRAP and DOMKE made a SwissArmy photo coat/jacket if you can find them. I'm sure there are others currently made. The old US ARMY M65 works on a budget. They used to be everywhere. Mine is a bit tight now.

- Knee/elbow pads. At 23 I thought they were stupid. At 63 I think I was stupid.

- Two 32 GB cards in body. A couple extra in a spare jacket/vest pocket with keys and phone.

- Nikon remote, seldom used but uber tiny, attached to a USA GEAR sling strap.

- ROKINON 16 MF 2.0 (24 FF)

- NIKKOR 35 AFS (52.5 FF)

- NIKKOR 50 AF 1.8 (75 FF)

- NIKKOR 85 AFS 1.8 (127.5 FF)

- PHOTOGRAPHER ID around my neck. If you get one trying for free admission, good luck. They often do get you more ease of movement around venues however.

My whole rig is designed around being light, capable, comfortable, safe and inexpensive.

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Jan 15, 2020 16:17:50   #
bleirer
 
LFingar wrote:
If you are getting blurred shots that would be related to shutter speed and not to lighting flicker. At least not directly since light levels at the time of metering will affect shutter speed unless you have set it to a specific value. That in turn can produce blur, but the more likely culprit would be the shutter speed you are trying to shoot at. Flicker will give you variations in the exposure level of your shots. Slow shutter will produce blur. You might try this: Shoot in Manual with the shutter speed between 1/500 and 1/1000 (I prefer 1/1000 but at f/1.2 I can keep my ISO within reason. You may not be able to.). Set Aperture at it's widest and set ISO to Auto.
That combo gives me results I am quite happy with though there are probably as many ways to shoot a scene as there are photographers. Using manual settings as much as practical can help isolate and identify a problem.
If you are getting blurred shots that would be rel... (show quote)


I think the flicker mode lets you use a fast shutter by timing the shutter to the detected flicker, so it doesnt shoot in the low part of the cycle. Interesting article https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Cameras/Anti-Flicker-Mode.aspx

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Jan 15, 2020 18:58:41   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
bleirer wrote:
I think the flicker mode lets you use a fast shutter by timing the shutter to the detected flicker, so it doesnt shoot in the low part of the cycle. Interesting article https://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Cameras/Anti-Flicker-Mode.aspx


You really notice it in a burst. Without the anti flicker feature, 2 successive shots in a burst may have different exposures, typically one (exposed at the bottom of a cycle), will be noticeably darker, maybe a stop or two. My take is that the metering system, even when set on auto ISO, doesn’t respond quickly enough to correct the exposure between frames of a high speed burst. My 5D3 (which didn’t have anti-flicker) would exhibit this phenomena, even on auto ISO, while my 5D4, which does have it, doesn’t when it’s activated.

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Jan 15, 2020 23:48:17   #
tgreenhaw
 
I dug up some snaps I took from the stands at a recent high school basketball tournament. I wanted to try my EF 100-400 II IS f4.5 on EOS Rp. At f5 I was shooting at 1/200 with ISO 2000. A faster lens would have helped get a faster shutter speed, but I was satisfied with the results.

https://www.amazon.com/photos/shared/M_aIPkWOQ4OLZ3gh27Kv1Q.PGxe5TzvMGHuiSBaJPHPLf

Is slow shutter speed your concern with your existing lens? Have you tried f4 and ISO 4000? You should be able to get between 1/500 and 1/1000 right?

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Jan 16, 2020 13:25:07   #
Webbie62
 
After reading all of the reply's and comments (Thank you all very much). I have found a slightly use Canon 85mm, f/1.8 with a standard Canon Hood and the carry bag all for $200. Hopefully I will receive it sooner than later.
I plan to start out using Aperture Priority AE and set shutter speed while allowing ISO to fluctuate. I also plan to start using RAW again to pull the most out of my Basketball shots this season.
I will put my results up hear as I make advances in this past time passion - Photography

Thank you again.

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Jan 16, 2020 14:01:21   #
LWW Loc: REDLEGS NATION
 
Webbie62 wrote:
After reading all of the reply's and comments (Thank you all very much). I have found a slightly use Canon 85mm, f/1.8 with a standard Canon Hood and the carry bag all for $200. Hopefully I will receive it sooner than later.
I plan to start out using Aperture Priority AE and set shutter speed while allowing ISO to fluctuate. I also plan to start using RAW again to pull the most out of my Basketball shots this season.
I will put my results up hear as I make advances in this past time passion - Photography

Thank you again.
After reading all of the reply's and comments (Tha... (show quote)


That sounds decent price wise, but I’m not a CANON expert.

In any event I’m sure you will be happy shooting with a prime.

A huge benefit of primes IMHO is that with a sneaker zoom system one starts to see the scene better and adjust location rather than spinning a lens barrel

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Jan 16, 2020 15:18:43   #
bleirer
 
Webbie62 wrote:
After reading all of the reply's and comments (Thank you all very much). I have found a slightly use Canon 85mm, f/1.8 with a standard Canon Hood and the carry bag all for $200. Hopefully I will receive it sooner than later.
I plan to start out using Aperture Priority AE and set shutter speed while allowing ISO to fluctuate. I also plan to start using RAW again to pull the most out of my Basketball shots this season.
I will put my results up hear as I make advances in this past time passion - Photography

Thank you again.
After reading all of the reply's and comments (Tha... (show quote)


isnt it the other way around? Aperture priority you set the aperture and the camera picks any shutter speed. Use this if aperture is, you know, your priority.

Shutter priority allows you to set the shutter speed and the camera controls the aperture. Manual mode with auto iso (the best choice) you set both within reason and the camera controls the ISO.

https://photographylife.com/understanding-digital-camera-modes

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Jan 16, 2020 15:27:25   #
TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC
 
bleirer wrote:
isnt it the other way around? Aperture priority you set the aperture and the camera picks any shutter speed. Use this if aperture is, you know, your priority.

Shutter priority allows you to set the shutter speed and the camera controls the aperture. Manual mode with auto iso (the best choice) you set both within reason and the camera controls the ISO.

https://photographylife.com/understanding-digital-camera-modes


Exactly.

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Jan 16, 2020 18:21:38   #
Webbie62
 
bleirer wrote:
isnt it the other way around? Aperture priority you set the aperture and the camera picks any shutter speed. Use this if aperture is, you know, your priority.

Shutter priority allows you to set the shutter speed and the camera controls the aperture. Manual mode with auto iso (the best choice) you set both within reason and the camera controls the ISO.

https://photographylife.com/understanding-digital-camera-modes


You are correct - That is what I meant.

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