Doc Barry Loc: Huntsville, Alabama USA

But get the G2 version, NOT the G1.

Annie Loyd

will note that help.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

The cheapest answer is to get closer and maximize your native image quality and CROP and use well applied pixel enlargement software if needed .
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olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

There are probably a few ways to go on this issue, only you will know what is best for your situation. You will get lots of input, weigh it out for your situation and go where it feels comfortable. I'm not recommending this lens for you, but was looking at it myself as a possible low cost venture into a big zoom, in this case it is a 50-500 Sigma, an older lens. It is on Ebay....it will give you an idea of what may be available...I think it is an OS version as well. 500mm may be less than you are looking for. https://www.ebay.com/itm/SIGMA-DG-50-500-F-4-5-6-3-APO-LENS-NIKON-MOUNT-USED-IN-GOOD-CONDITION/202773262332?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

I think it is at a little over $227.00 at this point. I have nothing to do with the shop that is selling it, no stake.

At any rate, good luck in your venture.

Annie Loyd

Looks pretty...I talked to BEH about a lens similar today...he told me the older ones work a little slower and for birds the one I was looking at would be too slow..

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

It would be a little slower than the newest crop, BIF would be a bit tougher, OS would counter that somewhat, by a couple stops anyway.

Annie Loyd

Maybe I’ll rethink the older ones then..Sigmas were in the $200. Range.

imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida

None of the third party lenses will focus as good as your Nikkor .....Have you done a focus calibration on it ??
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olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

Beside my Nikkors (70-300 AFP VR, 70-300 AF-S VR, 18-300 AF-S VR, among others, several Sigma 400 older models, Tokina 80-400, Tamron 200-400, 800 mirror) I have a 170-500 Sigma and it does a nice job on "relaxed" birds (playing in the trees, pecking on the ground, posing, etc.) where it is tough to use is BIF, no OS, so fast shutter in better light is a must. On a tripod, with a trigger, and fast shutter it takes very nice bird pics, hand held is do-able, but a challenge.

I do want a 150-600 with VC or OS, but I too need to save up my pennies, or sell/trade some of my gear. The 50-500 I mentioned went for $560, which seems a bit pricey, but it did have OS, where my 170-500 does not. Of course, I didn't pay anywhere near that when I bought it, even though it looks and acts brand new.

I get some great shots with the old Vivitar mirror on my Sony A58 (it has in-body stabilization, and is a game changer for that lens) and I can go to 1600mm with the Clear Image Zoom (variable crop to 2X) in JPEG (unlike the Nikons, which do the additional 1.3X in RAW). It works on my Nikons, but requires a very steady hand, or tripod and trigger, fast shutter, since there is no image stabilization. I wouldn't slap a TC on any of the lenses I have, as the light loss only makes things worse, I'd rather do a crop.

Tom Shelburne Loc: Roaring Gap NC

I used a Kenko 1.4 converter on one safari trip last week and was disappointed with clarity
Went back to my 70-300 and liked these pictures much better without converter - newbie though

Bultaco Loc: Aiken, SC

billnikon Loc: Pennsylvania/Ohio/Florida/Maui/Oregon/Vermont

The cheapest way to get a good focusing, good IQ through out the zoom range 600mm is to buy the Nikon 200-500 5.6 lens.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Reducing the image area to 1.3X is no different than cropping in post processing. The only advantage to in camera cropping is that you can fit more images on a memory card.

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Do you have an example of using "pixel enlarging software" vs modest resizing in a photo editor? The reason I am asking is that I know of no software that "enlarges" pixels. The resizing software I am familiar with "adds" pixels, interpolating the content of the new pixels from the surrounding ones. I used to use Genuine Fractals, but have found that when resampling up to about 50%, there is no visible difference between doing it in Photoshop, Lightroom, Capture One, etc and using the current iteration of Genuine Fractals in On1 Raw software - Perfect Resize. The only thing I have found is that when resizing an image in software other that resizing software, you have to hit the sharpening, contrast/micro-contrast, (frequency option if it available), noise reduction, etc to get the most out of an image. Resizing software seems to get you there a little faster. But it doesn't add detail, it only preserves what is already there.

I may be an old dog, but I am always eager to learn any new tricks that can help make me a better photographer.

Bultaco Loc: Aiken, SC

Have you tried the Tammy? I used a friends 200/500 for a month, I'll stick with my Tammy, it's weather sealed with 100mm more reach. Check "Best of the Tetons" Mike has both and uses the Tammy.