ClarkJohnson Loc: Fort Myers, FL and Cohasset, MA

Despite all the suggestions not to use a teleconverter on the variable aperture zoom, if you are like me, you will try it anyway, probably a Kenko. Try to get a used one, so you won’t be out too much money. A TC could maybe be useful in the future when you inevitably start using higher quality lenses for your birding.

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

Another solution experiment (that is better than a TC, IMHO) is to set your "Image Area" in the shooting menu to 1.3X. It is a crop, and gives an image more from the center of the lens (generally the sharper part of the lens), no light loss/f-stop change, no additional glass. On the D7100 and D7200 it drops the megapixel count from 24 to 15, but I feel it makes up for it due to no light loss/F-stop increase, and no additional glass. I also use this setting to eliminate vignette associated with some mirror and other lenses. It puts the image in the sharpest part of the lens....give it a try. The 28/300 acts like a 450 FOV on a crop sensor camera, the 1.3X would make it appear to be approx. 585mm FOV.

Is that lens sharp enough to be usable that way, you can answer the question yourself with a simple test. If it works for now, good, if not, it didn't cost anything, so you can put your dollars towards a lens that will do what you are looking for. If not interested in this, ignore the post and move on!!

Good luck in your quest.

Annie Loyd

Thanks ....saved me!

Annie Loyd

Yep, that’s the size I’m saving for...guess that is the best thing to do.

Annie Loyd

I’ve noticed that softness..good to hear it’s just not my lens

Annie Loyd

I can do the $600 price...thanks for the advise..I’ll hold off till I find that perfect lens.

Annie Loyd

Oh thanks..

Annie Loyd

Thanks.good advise

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

I'll also add, if you do buy a TC, don't buy the really cheap ones, there is a reason they are cheap.........

I also use the image area trick with my Sony A DSLR's, by using the Clear Image Zoom, I get a variable crop of up to 2X, and that really puts one in the center of the lens glass.

Annie Loyd

Yep, good advise...I’ll keep saving.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Lots of mentions about a Kenko teleconverter... but no one has specified which one.

Being that you are using a DX/crop sensor camera, I would recommend trying the Kenko Teleplus "MC4" 1.4X DGX. It's widely regarded to be one of the sharpest TCs... in the center of the image. That's no problem for use on an APS-C format camera like yours, which crops off the corners of the image anyway. (The Teleplus "Pro 300" or "HD" may be a better choice for full frame/FX cameras, not quite as sharp in the center, but sharper in the corners).

The MC4 also happens to be the least expensive Kenko TC. In fact, it's one of the least expensive made by anyone.

The problem is, while I could find the MC4 widely available for Canon and Sony, I had trouble finding one for Nikon F-mount. It appears that Kenko may be phasing them out, in favor of their more expensive "Pro 300" and even more expensive "HD" versions (there are actually two variants of the "HD" for Nikon... one appears to be for use with G & E lenses specifically).

If you shop around, you'll find quite a few used MC4s for Nikon. Prices vary wildly. Don't overpay for one. They sold new for around $120 and a used one should be under $100. For so little investment, it may be worth a try with your lens, to see if the results are acceptable to you.

Personally I would not try a stronger 2X with your lens, due to all the problems are noted above. Mainly, the stronger TC will make for much greater loss of image quality... and when you pair that up with a zoom that's already marginal at it's longest setting, it's pretty unlikely to produce images worth keeping. Not to mention that you'll lose autofocus and will have trouble manually focusing because your viewfinder will be quite dim.

There are reasons people still buy $10,000+, 6 and 8 lb. 500mm and 600mm lenses! For around $1500 a Tamron 150-600mm G2 is a "second best" option. Image quality with these more affordable zooms isn't as good as the big prime super teles, of course. But, hey, the lighter weight and more affordable 150-600mm zooms have been real "game changers".

EDIT: Don't bother setting your camera to a 1.3X "crop" mode. Crop your images in post-processing instead, if needed. The resulting crop is exactly the same, either way. But you'll have more control over the crop if you do it in post-processing. You can do a little less crop or even no crop at all, if the framing ended up being too tight. Or you'll be able to move the crop if you weren't able to frame the subject exactly the way you like (common with wildlife). Using the in-camera crop doesn't give you those options. It simply crops the center of every image the same amount. Since you can accomplish the exact same result with post-processing, if you wish, it makes no sense to use the in-camera crop!

Annie Loyd

Wow, thank you for all your information..this forum has been eye opening and I’m sure saved me money on a lack luster image maker...I so appreciate your information and will keep looking for a used 600mm I can keep till I can’t lift it!

rmorrison1116 Loc: Near Valley Forge, Pennsylvania

Annie Loyd, there are two reply methods, Reply and Quote Reply. When replying to a specific posting, please use Quote Reply so everyone knows who you are replying to.

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

I agree to disagree, I do not see the harm in trying the 1.3X internal crop, especially if you do not have the lenses and are considering spending your hard earned dollars on something like a TC. The 1.3X is a simple way to see what the extra MM might yield, for someone who does not have a case full of lenses. Since I have used both crop methods, sometimes in the same image, and am satisfied with the result, I will continue to utilize the additional tool Nikon gave me (and Sony gave me) when the need arises. It simply works for me. YMMV.

For the op - Save the money up for the better lenses. If someone cannot afford to buy a lot of gear based on a hunch, suggestions, or the simple wish for better closeups, they might want to try some options, especially those that don't cost $$.

I do not know the OP's Post Processing skills, but will say this; I do crop both ways, and both have their uses. The 1.3x allow me to fill the frame in a pinch, on the front end (if i don't have a longer lens with me) It doesn't cost any light or shutter speed, and also cuts vignetting with some lenses, and is quite useful on mirror lenses. I do mostly run and gun images... If I have the time for more serious setup, tripod, shutter release, etc., then the PP crop could suffice, but both work, and I often do not have time to stop and set up, I'm following a critter, or walking through underbrush, shooting one handed and holding onto something with the other, etc.

If the 1.3x crop allows me to frame and focus even more sharply on a distant subject, then anything I do in post will add to the result, I see no harm, no downside...a crop is crop, however performed. I suggested the idea to the OP not to start any argument, just to give an alternative to the torture of trying out different TC's and spending money, and maybe never using said TC's again (I have I think, 6 of them), and I have hardly ever used them again after trying, they should go to Ebay, but then some other poor soul will spend hard earned dollars and maybe not be happy. I have some Kenko's, they are OK, but they are not as good as the crop, either crop......

Annie Loyd

Thank you so much for all your information...I appreciate your time on this.