bellgamin wrote:
I have decided to give my Nikon D3500 a super wide angle lens for my soon-coming 89th birthday. I checked around & was startled to see how many choices there are. The 6 choices that most caught my eye are as follows:
a) Nikon AF-P DX 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6G
b) Nikon AF-S DX 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G
c) Tamron 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di II VC HLD
d) Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM AF
e) Tokina AT-X PRO DX-II 11-16mm f/2.8
f) Tokina AT-X 11-20mm f/2.8 PRO DX
I'm a novice -- strictly a hobbyist. I mostly shoot candids at family times, and landscapes when I amble around on my own. The best of the candids will get stuck in a family album (I'm old-fashioned that way) & the landscapes will probably languish on my computer.
So... which of these 6 should I buy? (I presently lean toward (f) because of the 2.8 or (d) because of the wide 8mm end, but I am clueless about other selection factors.)
Your comments & suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
I have decided to give my Nikon D3500 a super wide... (
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a) Nikon AF-P DX 10-20mm f/4.5-5.6G...
Small, light, inexpensive. Somewhat plasicky and AF-P lenses aren't compatible with all Nikon cameras, but are fine with a D3500. Surprisingly good image quality. Slow f/4.5-5.6 aperture. But it has VR (image stabilization). Get this lens and go have fun using it!
b) Nikon AF-S DX 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G
A good lens, but ridiculously expensive and not really any better than some much less expensive options.
c) Tamron 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 Di II VC HLD
Not very familiar with it other than on paper. The earlier version (without VC image stabilization) image quality didn't impress me very much.
d) Sigma 8-16mm F4.5-5.6 DC HSM AF
The widest non-fisheye lens available. Heavy wide angle distortions. Protruding front element makes it impossible to fit standard filters. Pretty expensive, but it goes wider than any other lens, aside from a fisheye.
e) Tokina AT-X PRO DX-II 11-16mm f/2.8
Yeah, it's pretty sharp. But the Nikon AF-P 10-20mm is just as sharp. This Tokina was the sharpest ultrawide in it's day, but that was a few years ago. And, unfortunately, it's also very prone to flare issues. The first version in Nikon F-mount is motorless, so would not be able to autofocus on D3500... but this II is fine in that respect. Quite well made, but uses Tokina's somewhat odd "focus clutch" mechanism to shift from manual focus to auto focus. Fairly large and heavy, super narrow range of focal lengths.. those are the trade-offs to get f/2.8! (See below.)
f) Tokina AT-X 11-20mm f/2.8 PRO DX
Updated version of "e)", has largely solved the flare and limited focal length range issues. Also only one version, which has a built-in focusing motor so is able to AF on all Nikon cameras. But now it's bigger and heavier... 82mm filters (all the others above use 77mm, except the 8-16mm which can't use standard filters and the Nikkor AF-P 10-20mm which uses 67mm).
Do you really "need" f/2.8 on an ultrawide? If you're shooting landscapes and architecture and other sedentary subjects, very probably not. In fact, you will very likely typically be stopping down to a middle or smaller aperture for greater depth of field, not using f/2.8 much or at all. If you are out shooting astrophotography or aurora borealis at night, the f/2.8 might make for a helpfully brighter viewfinder. Sports shooters and photojournalists also may need f/2.8. But landscape shooters probably don't. For a lens to have a larger aperture means other limitations... larger size and greater weight, less focal length range in a zoom, higher price. And often there's some compromise in image quality, especially at the largest apertures.... Possibly less sharpness in the corners and edges of images and/or more chromatic aberration. It's not uncommon for "slower" ultrawide lenses to be better corrected and sharper from corner to corner. Do a lot of careful study and comparison... and ask yourself if you really "need" f/2.8 for what you'll be shooting (a tripod may be a better choice)!