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Colour Negative Warning
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Aug 23, 2019 14:16:01   #
Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada
 
Thanks...

Dik

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Aug 24, 2019 08:25:44   #
rehess Loc: South Bend, Indiana, USA
 
burkphoto wrote:
For color negatives, just get the Negative Lab Pro plug-in for Lightroom Classic or Lr6 ($99). Yes, you can individually invert and adjust the RGB curves in Lr, but it takes forever, and the results are seldom realistic. Besides, it takes too long (redundancy supplied for comic effect). Negative Lab Pro is near magic, more than worth its cost if you convert lots of negatives. It will save hours of frustration. https://www.negativelabpro.com — See it in action on YouTube. There's a link on their home page to an excellent demo.

As for sharpness, know that flatbed scanners are generally the culprit. You can't really control focus well, so you MUST sharpen the images quite a bit in post-production. That's why I personally copy my old film with a macro lens and a camera when I want maximum sharpness.

Also, you must be aware of the math involved. When you say you scan at 600dpi, that tells me nothing about the ultimate image size in pixels. For printing, you should have 240 pixels of scan per finished linear inch of print. In other words, scanning at 240 dots per inch to a reproduction size of 8x10 inches, will yield 8x240 by 10x240 pixels (1920x2400 pixels). 300 dpi is better, so you have a little room to adjust if needed.

In digital photography, whether scanning or using a camera, it's all about how many pixels you initially process into a file.
For color negatives, just get the Negative Lab Pro... (show quote)
As usual, this depends on which system is used. My Nikon LS-2000 {long since off the market} includes a focusing step. My Plustek 8100 doesn’t have that, but the way they do things they don’t seem to need it - both systems seem to benefit by not having any glass in their light path, and both systems come with software that handles negatives correctly.

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Aug 24, 2019 12:41:24   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
Dikdik wrote:
Thanks for the info.

Some scans come in very clear and others not so sharp. Seems to depend on the set of negatives for the film.

I've attached a photo with a 'green' background that shows the typical clarity... some losses, some noise and some dirt.

Dik



It's a good procedure to CLEAN each negative prior to scanning and to keep the scanner spotless at all times. I use a soft anti-static cloth and clean compressed air on both before each scene and any "spotting" is minimized.

The image you supplied is perfectly correctable as to color balance and sharpness can be enhanced in post-processing of the image.

Old negatives can yield decent files and prints IF the were processed and stored correctly in the first place. I have old negatives (C-33 and C-41 Processed) that date back to the 1960s that are still very printable only because the were processed properly. Back in the good old days, PROFESSIONAL color labs kept tight control over the film processing- family for their one ease in production and printing. Poorly process color negatives wild cause all kids of lab headaches such as crossover. To avoid theses issues the lab would maintain tight quality control, run daily tests, plot graphs, track trends in chemical conditions and head off problems before they occurred. Replenishment was carefully monitored and applied, machinery was cleaned regularly, contamination was carefully prevented and, film was properly washed and stabilized and dyed in clean warm filtered air.

The cam the MINI_LABS- some were fine and operated by good technicians bit othere were NOT. There were a few companies that installed mini-labs in otere business such as convenience stores, dry cleaners, grocery stores etc., that were the diametrically opposite- the antithesis of quality control. Folks took in the machinery to "generate extra income" and the simply did no know waht they were doing. After the film was improperly processed in half-exhausted chemistry it was dried in open air and subjected to dust and otere airborne contaminants. There were also some mass-production finishers labs that did poor film processing- the did not carefully monitor their chemistry, mixed different brands of chemistry when the got better deals on supplies and use dirty machinery- a nightmare! When customers received bad prints, they were told it was their fault due to bad photography.

Chances are, that SOME of you film was doomed for fading from the start so you are wise to scan your negatives and produce the best images you can. It is surprins how you can squeezes some quality out of old negas, even if the are in bad shape. Work your sliders in P-P- you can do local correction to clean up some crossovers and easily fix stains and spots with a healing action. You can increase or decrease color saturation, improve contrast, sharpen somewhat. If the color is absolutely awful, you can go to monochrome or produce a sepia look. You can produce old fashioned deckled edged prints and start on old-fashioned album.

Good luck with your project!



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Aug 24, 2019 13:49:52   #
Dikdik Loc: Winnipeg, Canada
 
It's a good procedure to CLEAN each negative prior to scanning and to keep the scanner spotless at all times. I use a soft anti-static cloth and clean compressed air on both before each scene and any "spotting" is minimized.

I’ve not been using compressed air, but, a microfibre lens cloth, and I clean the scanner every few hours. Wear a glove on my right hand and try not to touch negative surfaces.

The image you supplied is perfectly correctable as to color balance and sharpness can be enhanced in post-processing of the image.

Thanks... you done a marvellous job of fixing it. The original scan is now a 12MB, without processing, file since it is one of those I want to retain.

Old negatives can yield decent files and prints IF the were processed and stored correctly in the first place. I have old negatives (C-33 and C-41 Processed) that date back to the 1960s that are still very printable only because the were processed properly. Back in the good old days, PROFESSIONAL color labs kept tight control over the film processing- family for their

Unfortunately most of my films were dropped of at the corner drugstore and who knows where they were sent out to.

Chances are, that SOME of you film was doomed for fading from the start so you are wise to scan your negatives and produce the best images you can.

I have just under 150 pictures that I want to retain. I have to learn how to colour process them... something I’ve not done very much is post-processing. It’s still a learning experience.

You can increase or decrease color saturation, improve contrast, sharpen somewhat. If the color is absolutely awful, you can go to monochrome or produce a sepia look. You can produce old fashioned deckled edged prints and start on old-fashioned album.

Thanks for the information.

Dik

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