nadelewitz Loc: Ithaca NY

Do't try to overthink it. Just take lots of shots every where.

These are the most amazing pictures I've taken of Sadie the Pug. Took my dslr with a new inexpensive wide angle lens to the dog park. First time using the lens. I was sitting at the picnic table and glanced over my shoulder and she was sitting right there. Whipped up the camera and fired off a few shots. Program Mode, automatic settings, autofocus. About as close as the lens could focus.

I was blown away by the spontaneous images. Lighting was perfect (difficult with a black dog), great angles, and unbelievable detail. Even got my reflection in her eye (me with the orange shirt).

Some of the best photos you've ever seen were accidents. Take enough and you'll get ones you'll treasure.

broncomaniac Loc: Lynchburg, VA

As has been mentioned previously, eye level is best.

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dwmoar Loc: Oregon, Willamette Valley

Sometime a quick snap turns out to be good. This is one of my dog in the back yard after we played fetch. He wore me out....

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leenso52

NICE SHOTS!!!

hassighedgehog Loc: Corona, CA

The most important thing with all animals, and children, is patience. Second is practice.

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Lots of good advice here already... I may repeat a few things.

1. With kids and active pets, you need a fast focusing camera and lens. They need to be quick to acquire focus and good at tracking movement. Plus, it's BOTH the camera and lens that are important... using a lens with slower AF on a camera with fast AF will make for a slow focusing combo. Canon USM, Nikon AF-S, Sigma HSM, Tamron USD are some of the fastest focusing lenses.

2. Up to a point, larger aperture lenses also can be higher performance. More light for the AF system to work can make for faster focusing and better tracking. Look for f/4 and, even better, f2.8 lenses instead of f/5.6 or f/6.5. (Doesn't matter what lens aperture you are using to make the image... what's important is the lens' max aperture, because it's held wide open during focusing, only stops down to a smaller aperture that's been set at the very instant of exposure.)

3. Check the manual to see if your camera has performance focus points. Most cameras these days have multiple points. In some cases, they are all pretty equal in performance. But in many cameras only certain, select points... maybe even just one point is higher performance. Restrict the camera to only use those points, for faster focusing. Some cameras have one or more AF pionts that are even higher performance yet, when used with an f/2.8 or larger aperture lens.

4. Use the continuous focusing mode of your camera. Try Back Button Focusing, if it's possible on your camera. That makes it possible to use continuous focus mode all the time, for virtually any type of subject. (If you search for "Back Button Focus", you'll find out more info about it.... Without knowing what camera you use, can't say if it's possible to use on it or not.)

5. Zoom lenses can be essential shooting fast moving kids and pets! You may not have time to move to compose a shot, will need the zoom to do that.

6. Wide angle lenses exaggerate the size of noses and such, can be used humorously. Short telephoto focal lengths give the "truest" appearance in images. Long telephotos tend to flatten or compress, but can also strongly blur down a background to make a subject stand out better.

7. Get down to the pets level... or bring them up to your level. Stoop, squat or sit on the ground... maybe even lie prone if that's what your pet's doing. Alternatively, nice portraits can be made putting the pet on a posing table or stand of some sort. Often they'll sit still for a few minutes. A professional cat photographer (yes, there is such a specialized photographer... he's been doing it for 30+ years!) that I know works with a pedestal that's covered with cloth or carpet (interchangeable). He also sets it up and works inside a tent to keep his subjects from escaping. The pedestal he uses is fully enclosed, so that the cats won't be able to hide under it.

8. Toys or treats can be used to get the pet's attention, make them perk up and look alert. It might be better to have someone help with that, though... leaving you free to take the shots.

9. For more candid shots of their more endearing behaviors, give the pet time to get accustomed to you being nearby, relaxed or interested in something else, ignoring you. Look for interesting light and shadow effects.

10. Keep your camera handy and ready to use, while doing other things either interacting with the pet or just letting it do it's own thing.

11. Don't use flash. It might startle your subjects. But, even worse, without very carefully controlled lighting you'll have problems with "eyeshine", which is basically redeye in animals, except that it's not red.

12. And take TONS of shots... Unfortunately, most pets are with us for too short a time and you'll really treasure those photos later when they're gone.

Some examples:

Missy... a friend's very photogenic cat, first as a kitten, then when older (she's deaf, as many pure white cats are)....



Sometimes fleeting light just grabs you! Black horses are difficult to photograph, but this one was standing next to a white building that reflected the light and really helped. In the other shot, Bear, a friend's golden, is always ready to go for a ride! I love the interplay of light and dark in this shot of him.



Sabrina was the sweetest... and funniest... cat I've ever known. She'd run to see who was at the door, whenever the bell rang:



Skye's first trip to the lake! Is it okay if I jump in?



Wiley, before and after a haircut.... and in his spiffy new sweater!



Teaser was a real couch potato! When he wasn't sprawled out sleeping on the top of a sofa or chair, he'd sit like a person watching TV (he liked cartoons... and didn't really drink Coke). On hot days he liked to hang out in the ivy.



Roxie running!



Look for interactions between animals and their people... Be alert and ready for anything, look for different angles, don't be afraid to experiment with slower shutter speeds to capture movement, sometimes focus close on the details.... and have fun!

JoAnneK01 Loc: Lahaina, Hawaii

Aloha Karlonious and welcome to UHH. I'm not going to try to add anything more to what has already been said, just wanting to welcome you. Keep on taking photos and you'll see what works for you.

CaliforniaDreamer

For me (and most others on the forum) it is all about the emotion that the photo invokes. For dogs it is about the eyes, the tilt of the head, ... I usually like the photo where the subject is looking off in to the distance.

CaliforniaDreamer

BTW for me it is different with cats. I like them looking at me.

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CaliforniaDreamer

BTW amfoto1 (Alan's) picture of cat paws invoked a lot of feeling for me. I think I know from the photo exactly what the cat was feeling. A really great photo not doing anything I would do. Very creative.

carlbsc

These are just a couple of thoughts to add to what's been suggested.....a few things I do photographing my dog. Of course, these vary with types of dogs. Have some playtime with the dog, and you, before shooting to get them calmed down. Let the dog get used to you. Used a squeaky toy to get their attention. Try to have some form of catchlight so the eyes don't look like black holes. If possible, get assistance from the owner in placing the dog. Lots of fun.....
good luck.

lowkick Loc: Connecticut

Look at http://dogbreathphoto.com . Kaylie Greer is a great dog photographer. See if she has lessons on YouTube.

SDigger

I used to photograph pets with strobes and background commercially. establishing rapport with the animal is essential. Some small treats are sometimes useful. I found dogs did better with the dog on a table and owner present. Using something that made a noise to get their attention without frightening them such as squeaky toy helped with canine alertness. Pet photography can be as frustrating as shooting small children. Sometimes the subject does not want to be the subject. Good luck.
If you are wanting actions shots, such as at a dog park. Follow the advice already given. Low angle. I like to set my camera on the sports setting giving a limited depth of field, or aperture priority choosing an aperture with the depth of field you want and shoot a lot. Action shots such a a Lab launching itself into the water are interesting but might mean you are going to get wet.

Ron Dial Loc: Cuenca, Ecuador

The attached photo is a pretty good dog photo. You need an assistant to get the dog positioned and then let go just when you snap. Get below the dog. Use a flash set 1 1/2 - 2 stops under exposed to help fill shadows and to get a Key light in the dog's eye, especially with a dark colored dog. Make sure the backdrop is dramatic. The attached photo was show at a local park and used a cir polarizer. And brush them right before taking the shot.

Scruples Loc: Brooklyn, New York

Dear Karlonious: Welcome to your forum. Everyone brings something to the table for all of us to enjoy to benefit as a photographer. I won't repeat the standard tips because everyone else has.
Some dogs don't mind being photographed but some like most cats will run and hide. Focus on the what makes a dog or a cat a dog or a cat. Eyes, ears and noses are definitive. Highlight the fur because it is unique. Use ambient lighting and bounce it. Don't use flash. If you like dogs they will sense it. If you like cats they don't care. Remember: Dogs have owners, cats have staff employees.
Play with the dog and pet it because you want them to be relaxed. Have extra treats and toys so the can go home with it. Becareful of bones because they splinter.
I have included photos of Lucy. She doesn't necessarily like to be stared at by a big black eye. I had my son distract her. She is a border collie Australian cattle dog mix.
My other dog is Bentley. His is an attention hound. He is a Labrador Dalmation mix. His spots are on his belly which are hidden

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