Ignoring the focus issues (f5.6 @ 1/2000th didn't have sufficient depth of field to cover both birds), what's with the back of the hawk and the breast of the Robin? I've never encountered this effect before.
The hawk has a little buddy, wow! Great capture even if the dof could be better.
SonyA580
Loc: FL in the winter & MN in the summer
Looks like some chromatic aberration (CA) to me. Usually pops up when you have a dark color right next to a light one. Something to do with the various wavelengths of light focusing at different points as they pass through the lens. That's the bravest Robin I've ever seen!
5.6 is not enough depth of field. You need f8 or f11. Then you have to worry about slow shutter speed with a long lens the more you raise the fstop. At f8 you’re ok but f11 may cause the shutter speed to be too slow depending on the length of the lens. The slow shutter speed will cause camera shake.
Gene51
Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)
shutterhawk wrote:
Ignoring the focus issues (f5.6 @ 1/2000th didn't have sufficient depth of field to cover both birds), what's with the back of the hawk and the breast of the Robin? I've never encountered this effect before.
I'll bet you $1 you had stabilization turned on. At 1/2000 sec you don't need it, and if it's on it will look like this . Or the camera tried to autofocus while you snapped the shutter. To combat the former - turn off stabilization if you are shooting at anything shorter than 1/500. For the latter, especially with static subjects, use back button focus to establish focus first, then press the shutter - using back button focus when AF is disabled on shutter is going to get you more accurate results most of the time. If the subject(s) are moving, then continuous focus is a better idea.
It's not CA - by definition CA happens when different light frequencies focus at different distances on the focal plane. Different frequencies means different colors - CA is usually green and/or magenta. If you shot this as a jpeg, the built in lens profile on the D500 will take care of CA.
That's my guess.
It has the look of over-sharpening. Did you add sharpening to that image after your shot it?
I was waiting for a "jumping off" shot of the Red-shouldered hawk when the Robin just appeared so wasn't really prepared for two birds in the frame. Taking time to change camera settings would have risked loosing the shot I wanted.
In answer to other questions: Stabilization was on but I've used it to take thousands of pictures and never seen this before. It was shot in RAW, using back button focus, and was not sharpened (but shadows were lightened a bit).
shutterhawk wrote:
In answer to other questions: Stabilization was on but I've used it to take thousands of pictures and never seen this before. It was shot in RAW, using back button focus, and was not sharpened (but shadows were lightened a bit).
If it's the first time after thousands of similar shots, I don't think it's much to worry about. Your camera is essentially a computer, and computers will unexpectedly glitch every now and then.
However, if this begins occurring regularly, then it needs to be examined further.
Not going to auto focus above f8 on most camera bodies either...
fotoman150 wrote:
5.6 is not enough depth of field. You need f8 or f11. Then you have to worry about slow shutter speed with a long lens the more you raise the fstop. At f8 you’re ok but f11 may cause the shutter speed to be too slow depending on the length of the lens. The slow shutter speed will cause camera shake.
If you are shooting on a tripod, remember to turn off image stabilization. If you are using continuous autofocus on a still subject, then you might have to shoot two or three shots to avoid vibration from the focus motor.
Slow shutter speed and the bird was breathing. So the chest moved in, or out as the shot was taken.
Notorious T.O.D. wrote:
Not going to auto focus above f8 on most camera bodies either...
What are you talking about?? Virtually all DSLR lenses can be stopped down to F:16-22,24,28 or higher and the cameras focus just fine!! I believe you are confused about the minimum aperture a camera requires to autofocus. But cameras focus wth the lens wide open. Looking at the OP’s equipment list that can’t possibly be relevant to this situation.
You need to read what I said more carefully. Perhaps you need to educate yourself on AUTO focus, focus points/types and focus modes. I cannot think of a DSLR that will AUTO focus past f/8. Some older ones will only auto focus to f/5.6. Even some of the latest generation of bodies will only use certain focus points based on the lens and aperture. A lens can always be manually focused but that is difficult to do shooting action or moving subjects. I trust that I know what I am talking about in this regard.
clickety wrote:
What are you talking about?? Virtually all DSLR lenses can be stopped down to F:16-22,24,28 or higher and the cameras focus just fine!! I believe you are confused about the minimum aperture a camera requires to autofocus. But cameras focus wth the lens wide open. Looking at the OP’s equipment list that can’t possibly be relevant to this situation.
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