ronpier wrote:
Forgive my ignorance but why would you want to mess with using an old flash on a modern digital camera?
Yours is not an "ignorant" question- it makes sense and is worth a bit of discussion.
So...you go out and buy an up-to-date modern digital camera so why bother with a virtually " antique" flash unit?
For the average shooter who just uses flash occasionally in low light or wants to get into more advanced flash techniques, my advice would be to simply buy a modern Speedlight same as your camera make or one of the good aftermarket units made by Godox, Yongnuo, Metz- etc. You will have all the dedicated exposure automation, bounce, and modification potential, no need for special adaptations and safety for your camera's circuitry. Speedlights are compact and easy to carry around or mount atop the camera.
So...I like speedlights, I even use them professionally on certain jobs. Some of the "old school" units, however, are awesome. Many are extremely powerful, have larger "softer" working lamp heads, user changeable flash tubes, interchangeable reflectors and can be used in the bare-bulb mode. There are modes that were made by manufacturers that most of the new folks never even heard of- some are still in production like Lumedyne, Norman and Quantum. Oldies but goodies are still out there made by Ascor, Braun, Metz, Ultrablitz, Mecablitz, Hershey, Hieland, Hico, Dormitzer, and Mighty-Light.
Many of those old "bazookas" pack quite a wallop- and some go as high as 800-watt.seconds- the average speed light is 80 to 100 w.s. With that kinda power you can shoot at low ISO settings, bounce or modify your flash and still have sufficient depth of field. Of course, you might need to brush up on your MANUAL flash exposure determination methods- flash meters, guide numbers, estimating distances and setting apertures, etc.
Also...if you have one of those Safe-Synch adapters you can use many of the older studio type systems and monolights that are still available on the used market at reasonable prices.
On the other hand, if you just have one of those old Vivitar units or one of the many off-brand models with no particularly desirable features, monstrously high trigger voltages, and possibly limited remaining longevity, the price of the adapter is not justified.
Of course, you can measure the trigger voltage with a voltmeter or multimeter- if you have one and know exactly how to use it and where to probe for the reading, trigger the unit via radio slave or use it as a second flash with a simple photoelectric trigger, however, all of this requires time and possibly more investment. If you make a mistake or proceed without the Safe-Synch, that can be a costly error. There is also the possibility that when all is said and done, the old unit if it was frequently used in the past, may have a carbonized flesh tube which will cause color shifts and soon burn out. If it has been dormant for many years, it may have deformed capacitors which may also limit its power output and longevity.