Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Speedlight power with umbrellas
Page 1 of 2 next>
May 10, 2019 19:54:21   #
CO
 
I have a Nikon SB-700 speedlight (guide number 92' @ ISO 100 and 35mm) that I use with a 33" silver reflective and white umbrella. I'm thinking about purchasing an SB-5000 (guide number 113" @ ISO 100 and 35mm). That doesn't seem like a large increase in power. Do you think the difference would be noticeable?

Reply
May 10, 2019 20:09:47   #
BebuLamar
 
You gain 0.6 stop.

Reply
May 10, 2019 21:18:08   #
Bunkershot Loc: Central Florida
 
I have used an SB700 for 4 years. I just bought a Godox TT685N, GN 197 ft. Just started testing it and already love it. $110 and includes built-in transceiver for off camera use which I do a lot of. Significantly more power and less$$.

Reply
 
 
May 10, 2019 21:28:30   #
User ID
 
`
CO wrote:

I have a Nikon SB-700 speedlight guide
number 92 ....... I'm thinking about ....
an SB-5000 (guide number 113 ......

.... difference would be noticeable?


A difference of 3/4 stop can be noticeable
..... if you look carefully. IOW, no big deal.

.

Reply
May 10, 2019 21:37:01   #
BebuLamar
 
Bunkershot wrote:
I have used an SB700 for 4 years. I just bought a Godox TT685N, GN 197 ft. Just started testing it and already love it. $110 and includes built-in transceiver for off camera use which I do a lot of. Significantly more power and less$$.


The Godox GN 197 but at 200mm zoom setting. At 35mm zoom I think it's somewhere between 110 and 120.

Reply
May 10, 2019 22:22:17   #
E.L.. Shapiro Loc: Ottawa, Ontario Canada
 
If the published guide numbers are accurate, the actual difference between the two units in question is approximately one f/stop, that is, when used as a direct unmodified light source. With umbrella usage, there are many variables such as the size and shape/depth of the umbrella, the reflectivity of the surface of the umbrella, the angle of incidence of the flash unit to the reflective, surface and the angle of incidence of the entire unit to the subject. Other influences on exposure are the degree of any feathering and whether or not the umbrella has a backing to prevent light from penetrating through the umbrella fabric and bouncing around the area. You may or may not gain a full stop or in a certain circumstance you may gain a bit more but it is not a substantial difference.

In portraiture, some experienced shooters prefer less light to enable more selective focus via less depth of field.

In commercial work, sometimes much more power is required to enable smaller apertures for more depth of field or significantly more light to illuminate larger areas. I use lights that go up to 4800-watt .seconds just to enable moderately smaller apertures with modified light but these systems are excessively powerful for portraiture.

In some cases, however, an additional stop can make a difference and a second unit added to your system for multiple lighting effects with speedlights is not a bad investment, especially if there are a compatible triggering and TTL exposure features.

Most one-piece speedlights are pretty close in actual oupput power- the range form 80 to 100 watt.seconds. If you require significantly more power in a hand held camera mounted portable unit, you may be interested in one of the Godox or Flashpoint-2 piece units with interchangeable reflectors and user changeable flash tubes- they also enable bare-bulb usage- one of there models are rated at a maximum of 360 watt.seconds and a GN in excess of 200 at ISO 100.

My experience is that published guide numbers are often somewhat exaggerated or they are determined by are testing is small rooms with white walls and ceiling at relatively close proximity. Nonetheless, the larger 2- piece units with an outboard shoulder carried power supply are much more powerful- perhas 2 or 3 more stops than the average speedlight. There is just so many capacitors that can be crammed into a one-piece speedlight.

Reply
May 10, 2019 22:58:00   #
CO
 
E.L.. Shapiro wrote:
If the published guide numbers are accurate, the actual difference between the two units in question is approximately one f/stop, that is, when used as a direct unmodified light source. With umbrella usage, there are many variables such as the size and shape/depth of the umbrella, the reflectivity of the surface of the umbrella, the angle of incidence of the flash unit to the reflective, surface and the angle of incidence of the entire unit to the subject. Other influences on exposure are the degree of any feathering and whether or not the umbrella has a backing to prevent light from penetrating through the umbrella fabric and bouncing around the area. You may or may not gain a full stop or in a certain circumstance you may gain a bit more but it is not a substantial difference.

In portraiture, some experienced shooters prefer less light to enable more selective focus via less depth of field.

In commercial work, sometimes much more power is required to enable smaller apertures for more depth of field or significantly more light to illuminate larger areas. I use lights that go up to 4800-watt .seconds just to enable moderately smaller apertures with modified light but these systems are excessively powerful for portraiture.

In some cases, however, an additional stop can make a difference and a second unit added to your system for multiple lighting effects with speedlights is not a bad investment, especially if there are a compatible triggering and TTL exposure features.

Most one-piece speedlights are pretty close in actual oupput power- the range form 80 to 100 watt.seconds. If you require significantly more power in a hand held camera mounted portable unit, you may be interested in one of the Godox or Flashpoint-2 piece units with interchangeable reflectors and user changeable flash tubes- they also enable bare-bulb usage- one of there models are rated at a maximum of 360 watt.seconds and a GN in excess of 200 at ISO 100.

My experience is that published guide numbers are often somewhat exaggerated or they are determined by are testing is small rooms with white walls and ceiling at relatively close proximity. Nonetheless, the larger 2- piece units with an outboard shoulder carried power supply are much more powerful- perhas 2 or 3 more stops than the average speedlight. There is just so many capacitors that can be crammed into a one-piece speedlight.
If the published guide numbers are accurate, the a... (show quote)


Thanks for the great info. I could understand how much difference there would be with bare flash illuminating the subject directly. It's not so clear when firing the speedlight into umbrellas. Your explanation of that is excellent. I can see that there are so many variables. The umbrellas I use have a black backing and are 33" in diameter. I zoom the flash head to its widest setting to better fill the umbrella.

Reply
 
 
May 10, 2019 23:04:14   #
CO
 
Thanks to everyone for the information. I'm thinking now about getting the more powerful speedlight.

Reply
May 11, 2019 07:35:57   #
burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC
 
CO wrote:
Thanks for the great info. I could understand how much difference there would be with bare flash illuminating the subject directly. It's not so clear when firing the speedlight into umbrellas. Your explanation of that is excellent. I can see that there are so many variables. The umbrellas I use have a black backing and are 33" in diameter. I zoom the flash head to its widest setting to better fill the umbrella.


E.L. makes many good points. My own experience with lots of flash tools tells me that the only *exposure* thing that matters is what the meter reads at the surface of the subject, and what f/stop you need to achieve your results.

BUT that requires the right power for the right modifier (bare bulb, small reflector, large reflector, soft box, silver or white umbrella...) at the right distance and angle of incidence.

Upshot is, you can always use more power.

Reply
May 11, 2019 07:59:26   #
khorinek
 
CO wrote:
I have a Nikon SB-700 speedlight (guide number 92' @ ISO 100 and 35mm) that I use with a 33" silver reflective and white umbrella. I'm thinking about purchasing an SB-5000 (guide number 113" @ ISO 100 and 35mm). That doesn't seem like a large increase in power. Do you think the difference would be noticeable?


You might consider using a Translucent Umbrella and shoot through it instead of bouncing off a reflective umbrella. This is what I use and speedlight power hasn't been a problem

Reply
May 11, 2019 08:02:28   #
Notorious T.O.D. Loc: Harrisburg, North Carolina
 
More powerful and several Speedlites opens up more options. I have 3 Canon 600s and often use more than one in a large softbox or with a 7’ parabolic umbrella.

You just need a good holder for the Speedlites and radio control of firing and settings is much easier if you have them inside a softbox. I use a Profoto holder that can mount 2 or sometimes more Speedlites. It is not inexpensive but very well made and can be used with any Profoto softbox. Of course there are many holding devices that are less expensive too.


CO wrote:
Thanks to everyone for the information. I'm thinking now about getting the more powerful speedlight.

Reply
 
 
May 11, 2019 08:34:54   #
GoofyNewfie Loc: Kansas City
 
If you feel the need for more power and still want a small size, consider the
Godox AD200.
Comes with a bare bulb and fresnel head and can give 500 full-power flashes on a charge.
More power allows better use of high speed sync.
I use mine in a soft box. I get much better control of the light.
Example here: https://www.uglyhedgehog.com/t-559502-1.html
I have the newer XPro transmitter (about $70) and it’s worth the difference over the first generation.

Reply
May 11, 2019 10:03:55   #
Bear2 Loc: Southeast,, MI
 
CO wrote:
I have a Nikon SB-700 speedlight (guide number 92' @ ISO 100 and 35mm) that I use with a 33" silver reflective and white umbrella. I'm thinking about purchasing an SB-5000 (guide number 113" @ ISO 100 and 35mm). That doesn't seem like a large increase in power. Do you think the difference would be noticeable?


Instead, get another SB 700. I use two, both off camera and triggered by the popup flash on my D7200.

Duane

Reply
May 11, 2019 11:51:08   #
Bunkershot Loc: Central Florida
 
Bear2 wrote:
Instead, get another SB 700. I use two, both off camera and triggered by the popup flash on my D7200.

Duane


I had to buy the Godox XPro transmitter and the accompanying receiver in order to use my SB-700 off camera. The optical trigger (using the built-in flash) just didn't cut it. Totally unreliable. Radio triggering is the only way to go.

Reply
May 11, 2019 14:02:26   #
CO
 
khorinek wrote:
You might consider using a Translucent Umbrella and shoot through it instead of bouncing off a reflective umbrella. This is what I use and speedlight power hasn't been a problem


Thanks. I have a 41" translucent umbrella that I use with my Paul C. Buff strobes. It really produces great, soft light. I could use that or get a smaller one to use with the speedlight. I've noticed that the speedlight can't really fill the 41" umbrella with light all the way to the edges, even with the zoom head at its widest settings.

Reply
Page 1 of 2 next>
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.