Vietnam Vet

try 1/30 of a second and slow it down from there to suit your tastes

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

It looks like you lit the area with a flashing light - at regular intervals, the background, which should be smooth, has interruptions. Sorry, I am looking for a visual but can't find one.;

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

"I" didn't....... Did you mean to reply on another thread?

mborn Loc: Massachusetts

Gene51 Loc: Yonkers, NY, now in LSD (LowerSlowerDelaware)

Replace "you" with "one" and it will make more sense. "It" refers to using VR when panning with slow shutter speeds, where "one" is more likely to see the choppiness in the background.

tcthome Loc: NJ

for all the Nikon users. Its pretty long but , somewhere in there he covers it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jequQJ8_7A&list=PLOD1rrjm5sQDne9AacaP0weB4mwrclaE8&index=5&t=0s

Jimmy T Loc: Virginia

My Canon 28-300mm L has four settings for VR.
Stabilizer on, Stabilizer Off
Stabilizer Mode 1, and Stabilizer Mode 2

If I am recalling correctly
Mode 1 is for stationary subjects, in all directions.
Mode 2 one for moving subjects
Set to off for long exposures
A half press of the shutter button engages the lens stabilization

More examples and recommendations may be found at:
http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/7/0300003597/02/ef28-300f35-56lisusm-im3-eng.pdf
Pages ENG-6 through ENG-9

Smile,
JimmyT Sends

TriX Loc: Raleigh, NC

Yep, several of my Canon zooms have a selection for single-axis VR/IS which is specifically for panning. Of course it varies with the distance and speed of the subject, but I have found that somewhere around 1/200 SS with the panning mode on (which stabilizes the vertical axis only) works well for road racing work (I don’t see any strange artifacts with the shots I’ve taken).

Longshadow Loc: Audubon, PA, United States

Still confused.
How do you get choppiness in the background in stills?
If it was video, how could the background be choppy and the subject not?

amfoto1 Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA

Does Nikon provide a "panning mode" on their VR lenses, the way Canon does?

Many Canon IS lenses have two or three different stabilization modes:

"Mode 1" is standard stabilization that counteracts movement both along the horizontal axis and the vertical axis.

"Mode 2" is the panning mode, which only corrects movement on the vertical axis, because most of the time when panning you are trying to cause motion blur in the background. (The lens and camera detect whether the camera is in landscape or portrait orientation and only correct the vertical movement, in either case.)

"Mode 3" is only found on some of the newer lenses, it's the same as Mode 1 except it's sort of "instant stabilization" that's only applied during exposure.

Some of the more recent lenses do not have a switch and supposedly self-detect panning and automatically go into Mode 2 when needed.

These are Canon modes and image stabilization is somewhat different brand-to-brand (each manufacturer has their own patented system).

Shooting with a number of different Canon IS lenses for close to 20 years now, I almost never turn it off (and I mostly shoot sports/action/wildlife).

In fact, I often forget to switch lenses to "panning mode" when I'm doing panned shots... and still manage to get the background blur effects. This is an example where I left Canon IS in "Mode 1" while panning the shot and "dragging the shutter"....



However.... ONCE AGAIN... Canon and Nikon image stabilization systems are different. Yes, they both serve the same general purpose. But, for example, many Nikon VR users feel it slows down autofocus and opt to turn it off when shutter speeds are fast enough that it's less necessary. Personally I think Canon IS does the opposite.... that it helps AF perform faster and better tracking moving subjects. Especially with longer telephotos, I also find IS helpful stabilizing the image in the viewfinder when I'm tracking subjects, regardless of the shutter speed I'm using.

Jim Bianco

Not that I know of. Thanks for info

Ob1 Loc: Utah

Mr. Perry had the correct response. Set your VR lens to setting #2 Panning setting, then slow down shutter speed to 1/30, follow subject the exact speed they are moving. Take a burst of photos. If the background is not blurry enough slow down shutter speed. You might get one decent one in your burst. By the way, I can’t do it. I have only had one good panning shot ever. It was of a bride walking slowly years ago. I gave that up. Maybe I’ll make it my summer goal to get one more. It will take all summer. Like Steve said it takes a lot of practice. Have fun trying!

Charlie C Loc: North Liberty, IA

Jim,

Anything above base ISO creates noise. It is whenever it becomes objectionable to you is where your personal maximum noise ends. The 7100 I had was at 2500 as my high end. The 7200 handled noise to my personal max at around 3800. My D750 is maxed (for me) at about 6400. The more higher end the camera the better it will handle noise and allow for more dynamic range.

wdross Loc: Castle Rock, Colorado

It depends on the camera and what stabilization does with the speed of the pan. The manual is always the best place to start. Usually in the section on stabilization it will talk about what is best for panning. Failing to find a definitive answer there, I would suggest calling customer service or technical service of the camera's manufacturer. And one can always try and use the tried and true method of "trial and error". It will also be very dependent on how slow you want to run the shutter. The longer the pan, for example 1/30 to 1 second in a fairly fast pan, will usual "overload" the stabilization system in the direction of the pan such that it will not affect the shot; it "freezes up" because it does know how to correct for such a big "bump" or "shake".

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Some cameras have two modes for shake reduction. One works in all directions, the other (for panning) corrects only vertical shake.

As usual, Read The *Fine* Manual for your specific camera and lens combinations.