Memory Card!
Apr 12, 2019 01:06:10 #
aubreybogle
Loc: Albuquerque, NM
Kaowdo wrote:
Thank you sweetheart!
I will be looking forward to this new venture, and all the fantastic photo's I'm going to learn how to take of my jewelry...so I don't have to use stock photo's anymore. I have tried before to photograph my jewelry...but believe it or not...jewelry is (especially sparkly jewelry) is very hard to get great photo's of. So...I'm really looking forward to learning how, but now that I feel I have the right equipment it will happen.
I will be looking forward to this new venture, and all the fantastic photo's I'm going to learn how to take of my jewelry...so I don't have to use stock photo's anymore. I have tried before to photograph my jewelry...but believe it or not...jewelry is (especially sparkly jewelry) is very hard to get great photo's of. So...I'm really looking forward to learning how, but now that I feel I have the right equipment it will happen.
As another forum member wrote, lighting for jewelry is crucial for good photos. I do not do this kind of photography, but I have seen advertised reasonably priced lighting kits that will help (much less than $100). Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will offer their advice.
Apr 12, 2019 07:47:36 #
Oh! One more point. When photographing especially "sparkly" jewelry, use a star filter. It takes the reflected points of light and turns it into a six pointed star. Great highlights. Another trick I use is smearing petroleum jelly on the sides of a cheap neutral density filter. That way the edges of the photograph have a blurred effect.
Happy Shooting!
Happy Shooting!
Apr 12, 2019 08:40:30 #
Kay,
Congratulations on starting a career in photography at 76. Applause to you .....clap, clap, clap.
(I do not have emojis on my chrome laptop. It's too old.)
Congratulations on starting a career in photography at 76. Applause to you .....clap, clap, clap.
(I do not have emojis on my chrome laptop. It's too old.)
Apr 12, 2019 13:56:19 #
aubreybogle wrote:
As another forum member wrote, lighting for jewelry is crucial for good photos. I do not do this kind of photography, but I have seen advertised reasonably priced lighting kits that will help (much less than $100). Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will offer their advice.
Thank you so much.
Apr 12, 2019 16:34:05 #
If you're trying to connect directly, from camera, to your computer there may be issues.., maybe not? Otherwise just buy a "USB card reader" and transfer right into your computer, bypassing the camera.
Apr 12, 2019 17:25:15 #
amfoto1
Loc: San Jose, Calif. USA
I see you've bought an SL1. Great!
The lens you use will be more important than the camera. For small jewelry, you may not be able to focus close enough with the 18-55mm "kit" lens. The SL1 normally comes with EF-S 18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM lens, which is the most recent version (a good thing). "IS" means it's "image stabilized" to help steady shots. "STM" refers to the "stepper" autofocus drive motor the lens uses, which is faster and quieter than the "micro motor" used in the earlier versions of Canon 18-55mm lenses.
STM lenses also can safely be manually focused, overriding the AF. That's not the case with the earlier non-STM versions of the lens. That type of lens MUST have the AF turned off at the switch before manually focusing or the mechanism can be damaged. Assuming you got the EF-S 18-55mm IS STM lens with the camera, that's a good thing, because when photographing close-ups it's often necessary to fine tune focus manually.
Shooting jewelry you will probably be using the zoom at the 55mm setting or close to it. This is a short telephoto. The closest focus possible with the EF-S 18-55mm is about 10" (250mm), rendering magnification of 0.25X or about 1/4 "life size". On the SL1 that means an image area that's 60mm x 88mm, or just slightly under 2.5 inches by 3.25 inches. This may be fine for some larger pieces of jewelry, but may not be enough magnification for smaller ones.
Someone suggested getting a Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 "Compact Macro" lens and I agree that might be good. That lens focuses a little closer (about 9") to render higher magnification: 0.5X or 1/2 life size. This will make it possible to capture an image area 30mm x 44mm... or about 1.20 inch by 1.75 inch. Another advantage is that a "true" macro lens will make for better images... sharper for more fine detail and "flat field" design for close-up work. The EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro is discontinued, but widely available used. I see them selling for between $150 and $225. There is a separately sold "1:1 macro adapter" made specifically for this lens to be able to focus closer and render higher magnification. The lens alone is one of the less expensive macro lenses available. But by the time you add the 1:1 adapter, it can easily end up costing more than some other, newer, more capable lenses. (Note: Do not confuse this with other Canon lenses such as the EF 50mm f/1.8 II, EF 50mm f/1.8 STM or EF 50mm f/1.4 USM. Those are not macro lenses and would be no more capable of close-up shots than the EF-S 18-55mm kit lens you'll have. These non-macro lenses can be nice for portraiture, but so can the EF-S 18-55mm or some of the macro lenses being recommended.)
Even better would be the Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 USM Macro lens. It focuses even closer (about 6") for higher magnification: 1.0X or full, 100% life size. This means it's able to render an image area as small as 15mm by 22mm (approx.)... or 0.6 inch by 0.85 inch. This is twice the magnification possible with the EF 50mm f/2.5 or four times the mag possible with the EF-S 18-55mm and would probably be more than enough magnification for even the smallest pieces of jewelry. Also notice that the EF-S 60mm uses "USM" or "ultrasonic motor" autofocus drive, which is even faster than the STM mentioned above. It's also quieter and smoother running than the "micro motor" used in the EF 50mm f/2.5 (the slowest and noisiest type of AF drive Canon uses in lenses). Like STM, with USM lenses it's possible to manually override focus without first having to turn off the AF at the switch (don't do that with the EF 50mm f/2.5, or you'll damage it's focusing mechanism).
The EF-S 60mm Macro is still in production. It can be bought new ($400), but is also widely available used (I see used prices ranging from around $225 to $320). At some point, discontinued lenses may not be possible to repair, if ever needed, because replacement part supplies run out. Lenses that are still in production are no problem getting serviced or repaired, if needed.
There are many other macro lenses. But a lot of them are 70mm, 90mm, 100mm or longer. While I usually recommend those for folks planning to go out and shoot bugs and flowers, for "table top studio" work such as you'll be doing a shorter focal length such as 60mm, 50mm or possibly even less can be desirable. This focal length puts you closer to the subject. Too close for some live subjects like bugs, but in this case a good thing because you can reach out and arrange things while looking through the camera viewfinder. When you have 50, 100 or 200 items to photograph, this can be a real time-saver!
Canon also offers an EF-S 35mm f.2.8 IS STM lens. I haven't used it so can't really say much, but it's able to focus to within about 5" and can do full 1:1 (100% life size, like the 60mm above). An interesting feature, it has a built in LED to help illuminate small subjects! And it has Image Stabilization, which most of the other macro lenses are lacking. IS is of somewhat limited help at really high magnifications, but it can't hurt and can help in other types of shots being done with the lens. Best of all, it's one of the most affordable. It sells new for $300 or used for around $225. It's a relatively newly introduced lens, so there aren't yet a whole lot of them available used.
Tamron makes a 60mm f/2 macro lens too. It's not as fast focusing as the Canon EF-S 60mm, but has a larger f/2 aperture that can be useful for portraiture or low light conditions. It typically sells for more than the Canon 60mm though, costing costs a little over $500 new and around $350 used.
There are other ways to do close-up photography, besides the macro lenses listed above.
There are "close-up" filters that allow non-macro lenses to focus closer. These simply screw into the front of the lens, like putting a strong pair of glasses on it. Don't be fooled into buying the cheap ones, though... They're junk and make for very poor image quality. Canon (and some others) offer high quality "diopters" that work pretty well, but are fairly costly. Canon's "500D" and "250D" diopters cost $85 and $90 respectively, in the 58mm diameter size you'd need for the EF-S 18-55mm lens. Note: The 250D is the stronger of the two diopters, allowing for closer focusing and higher magnification.
There are also "Macro Extension Tubes" that fit between lens and camera to make the lens able to focus closer with higher magnification. Some advantages of these are that they can be used with virtually any lens that can be fitted to the camera, as well as that they don't have any optics and are unlikely to "mess" with image quality. Canon only sells pricey tubes individually in two sizes: 12mm for $82 or 25mm for $140. While those are high quality and work well, there are more reasonably priced that work just as well. Among the best alternatives is the Kenko Macro Tube Set (12mm, 20mm and 36mm) that sells for $130. More plasticky and not quite as well made as the Canon or Kenko, there are also Vello, Fotodiox, Opteka and others that sell in sets of three (either 11, 21 and 21mm or 12, 20 and 36mm), typically for around $75. These are probably fine for use with relatively lightweight lenses and cameras like yours, but I wouldn't use them with heavy lenses and cameras or expect them to last a long time. Once again, don't be fooled into buying some really cheap sets of macro tubes... under $25 or even sometimes under $15. Those DO NOT have the electronic contacts for autofocus or control the lens aperture. High magnification photography often can be done with manual focus, but not being able to stop the lens down makes these tubes next to useless with modern lenses.
Other stuff you may want:
Lenses for other purposes such as an EF-S 55-250mm IS STM telephoto for more distant subjects or an EF-S 10-18mm IS STM wide angle for scenics and more. Note: AVOID the cheap Canon 75-300mm "III" lens, sometimes under $100 used. The 55-250mm IS STM is a much better lens in all respects.
I agree too that you will likely want a tripod shooting jewelry, among other things.
If the Sandisk memory card you have is "SD", "SDHC" or "SDXC" type, it will work in the camera. The SL1 takes 18MP images. So will probably be able to fit about 1000 compressed JPEG images on an 8GB memory card. If you instead take larger uncompressed RAW files, I'd expect that same size card to handle about 250 images. Depending upon what you have, you may want or need additional cards. I DO NOT recommend using one great big memory card. If it ever gets corrupted, damaged or lost you can lose an awful lot of images. Personally, I use fifteen smaller memory cards (16GB and 32GB, in three cameras). That way if anything happens to a card, I lose only a small portion of my work.
When you get the camera and first put the memory card into it, be sure to go into the camera's menu and "format" the memory card. THIS WILL ERASE any images already on the card, but is important to prepare it for use in the camera. In fact, I recommend you format the memory card in-camera after each download of images to your computer ("copy" them, don't "move" them... leave originals on the card and don't format it until you've confirmed the copies are good and backed up for safe-keeping!) Formatting a memory card in the camera doesn't actually erase the old images. It marks them as "okay to overwrite". They're still there and can be recovered, if needed, until you start saving new images to the card. It takes special software to be able to recover images once a card has been formatted.
One or more spare LP-E12 batteries: $50 ea. SL1 gets 400 to 800 shots per charge, approx.
You'll need software on your computer to work with images. If the camera doesn't include the original manufacturer-provided disk, which would be old versions now, download up-to-date software free directly from the Canon website. (I've recently been having trouble accessing the Canon USA website... don't know why. The same s'ware can be gotten from other English language Canon websites.)
Canon provides several software programs: Zoom Browser is used to organize images. Digital Photo Pro (DPP) is used to "develop" RAW files. Canon Utility is an applet used to set things on the camera and even take photos with it tethered to a computer (which may be handy for jewelry shots, using Live View and a larger screen for more exacting macro focusing, composition).
Canon software is okay. Even better might be a program like Adobe Elements 2019. It's more all-in-one (like combining Zoom Browser & DPP) and has built-in support for new users. You can use it in "beginner", "intermediate" or "expert" mode... your choice. Elements costs about $100 (one time, perpetual license, not a "subscription" like other Adobe software). If you plan to shoot video with your camera, you might also want Premiere Elements 2019, a separate program that costs $100. The two are sometimes bundled for some savings. Rest assured that the recent Windows version of Elements or Premiere Elements are compatible with your computer's operating system.
Above I mentioned doing photo backups. This is important, should a computer hard disk go bad. Some people use an external drive attached to their computer. Actually, they may use two or more to be able to and "rotate" them weekly, keeping a copy off-site somewhere for safe keeping. It's up to you, but I recommend setting up some sort of backup plan before too long. It's all too easy to lose a lot of images when a hard drive crashes. Another popular way to back up is saving images "to the cloud". That usually involves "renting" storage space from a someone providing that service.
You also may want to consider using a "tent" for jewelry photography. It's an enclosure you place the object inside, which serves to diffuse and control lighting. It can be really helpful with small objects. Here are some at one of the larger photo retailers: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=1410&fct=fct_tent-table-type_3030%7Cshooting-tents&N=4037060764&origSearch=tent
In addition, you will need some lighting gear. There are numerous types available, but for jewelry I'd consider some sort of LED or specialized fluorescent continuous lighting. This is easier to see what the effect will be, than with flash or strobes. In the past, continuous lighting such as halogen and tungsten were "hot lights". They got hot and could do damage or harm, just as the name implies. LEDs and fluorescent are "cool lights". Much more pleasant to work around! They also may use less power. Note: Standard fluorescent lights won't work. It cycles on/off very rapidly. So fast that we don't notice with our eyes. But our cameras sure "see" it! The result is a lot of underexposed images. (Some newer Canon cameras have "Anti-Flicker" especially to deal with fluorescent and similar. It detects the cycle and times the shutter release to the peak output of the lamps. I don't think the SL1 has this, the SL2 does. 7DII that I use have it and it works well.)
If one isn't included with the camera, you can download a free PDF from the Canon website. I also recommend a guide book specifically for the camera, such as: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=canon+SL1&i=stripbooks&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Another, more general book that's very helpful is https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Fourth-Photographs-Camera/dp/1607748509/ref=sr_1_1?crid=XVAWOM2ANIO8&keywords=understanding+exposure&qid=1555103495&s=books&sprefix=understanging+e%2Cstripbooks%2C216&sr=1-1
Finally, depending upon how "serious" you are about your photos, you may want to "calibrate" your computer monitor. The majority of computer monitors are way too bright for photo adjustment work and typically aren't that accurate rendering color. Further, monitors change brightness and color rendition over time, with use and as they age. Periodically using a calibration device is the solution. It measures the brightness of the monitor first to helps you adjust that. Then it runs a bunch of color tests to create a "monitor profile" that's used to adjust the monitor to render color as accurately as possible.
Without calibration, if you make a print from one of your images it will be too dark and the colors won't be "quite right". It looks good to you viewing it on your uncalibrated monitor. But the monitor is basically giving you wrong information and causing you to incorrectly adjust the image. A print won't be right. Or, if you display the image online, it won't look right to other people viewing it. You can try to adjust a monitor by eye, making a series of test prints, comparing to the monitor and adjusting it manually. A calibration device costs $100 and up, but will be cheaper over the long run by saving wasted ink and paper! I calibrate my monitor once a month.
Have fun!
The lens you use will be more important than the camera. For small jewelry, you may not be able to focus close enough with the 18-55mm "kit" lens. The SL1 normally comes with EF-S 18-55mm f/4-5.6 IS STM lens, which is the most recent version (a good thing). "IS" means it's "image stabilized" to help steady shots. "STM" refers to the "stepper" autofocus drive motor the lens uses, which is faster and quieter than the "micro motor" used in the earlier versions of Canon 18-55mm lenses.
STM lenses also can safely be manually focused, overriding the AF. That's not the case with the earlier non-STM versions of the lens. That type of lens MUST have the AF turned off at the switch before manually focusing or the mechanism can be damaged. Assuming you got the EF-S 18-55mm IS STM lens with the camera, that's a good thing, because when photographing close-ups it's often necessary to fine tune focus manually.
Shooting jewelry you will probably be using the zoom at the 55mm setting or close to it. This is a short telephoto. The closest focus possible with the EF-S 18-55mm is about 10" (250mm), rendering magnification of 0.25X or about 1/4 "life size". On the SL1 that means an image area that's 60mm x 88mm, or just slightly under 2.5 inches by 3.25 inches. This may be fine for some larger pieces of jewelry, but may not be enough magnification for smaller ones.
Someone suggested getting a Canon EF 50mm f/2.5 "Compact Macro" lens and I agree that might be good. That lens focuses a little closer (about 9") to render higher magnification: 0.5X or 1/2 life size. This will make it possible to capture an image area 30mm x 44mm... or about 1.20 inch by 1.75 inch. Another advantage is that a "true" macro lens will make for better images... sharper for more fine detail and "flat field" design for close-up work. The EF 50mm f/2.5 Compact Macro is discontinued, but widely available used. I see them selling for between $150 and $225. There is a separately sold "1:1 macro adapter" made specifically for this lens to be able to focus closer and render higher magnification. The lens alone is one of the less expensive macro lenses available. But by the time you add the 1:1 adapter, it can easily end up costing more than some other, newer, more capable lenses. (Note: Do not confuse this with other Canon lenses such as the EF 50mm f/1.8 II, EF 50mm f/1.8 STM or EF 50mm f/1.4 USM. Those are not macro lenses and would be no more capable of close-up shots than the EF-S 18-55mm kit lens you'll have. These non-macro lenses can be nice for portraiture, but so can the EF-S 18-55mm or some of the macro lenses being recommended.)
Even better would be the Canon EF-S 60mm f/2.8 USM Macro lens. It focuses even closer (about 6") for higher magnification: 1.0X or full, 100% life size. This means it's able to render an image area as small as 15mm by 22mm (approx.)... or 0.6 inch by 0.85 inch. This is twice the magnification possible with the EF 50mm f/2.5 or four times the mag possible with the EF-S 18-55mm and would probably be more than enough magnification for even the smallest pieces of jewelry. Also notice that the EF-S 60mm uses "USM" or "ultrasonic motor" autofocus drive, which is even faster than the STM mentioned above. It's also quieter and smoother running than the "micro motor" used in the EF 50mm f/2.5 (the slowest and noisiest type of AF drive Canon uses in lenses). Like STM, with USM lenses it's possible to manually override focus without first having to turn off the AF at the switch (don't do that with the EF 50mm f/2.5, or you'll damage it's focusing mechanism).
The EF-S 60mm Macro is still in production. It can be bought new ($400), but is also widely available used (I see used prices ranging from around $225 to $320). At some point, discontinued lenses may not be possible to repair, if ever needed, because replacement part supplies run out. Lenses that are still in production are no problem getting serviced or repaired, if needed.
There are many other macro lenses. But a lot of them are 70mm, 90mm, 100mm or longer. While I usually recommend those for folks planning to go out and shoot bugs and flowers, for "table top studio" work such as you'll be doing a shorter focal length such as 60mm, 50mm or possibly even less can be desirable. This focal length puts you closer to the subject. Too close for some live subjects like bugs, but in this case a good thing because you can reach out and arrange things while looking through the camera viewfinder. When you have 50, 100 or 200 items to photograph, this can be a real time-saver!
Canon also offers an EF-S 35mm f.2.8 IS STM lens. I haven't used it so can't really say much, but it's able to focus to within about 5" and can do full 1:1 (100% life size, like the 60mm above). An interesting feature, it has a built in LED to help illuminate small subjects! And it has Image Stabilization, which most of the other macro lenses are lacking. IS is of somewhat limited help at really high magnifications, but it can't hurt and can help in other types of shots being done with the lens. Best of all, it's one of the most affordable. It sells new for $300 or used for around $225. It's a relatively newly introduced lens, so there aren't yet a whole lot of them available used.
Tamron makes a 60mm f/2 macro lens too. It's not as fast focusing as the Canon EF-S 60mm, but has a larger f/2 aperture that can be useful for portraiture or low light conditions. It typically sells for more than the Canon 60mm though, costing costs a little over $500 new and around $350 used.
There are other ways to do close-up photography, besides the macro lenses listed above.
There are "close-up" filters that allow non-macro lenses to focus closer. These simply screw into the front of the lens, like putting a strong pair of glasses on it. Don't be fooled into buying the cheap ones, though... They're junk and make for very poor image quality. Canon (and some others) offer high quality "diopters" that work pretty well, but are fairly costly. Canon's "500D" and "250D" diopters cost $85 and $90 respectively, in the 58mm diameter size you'd need for the EF-S 18-55mm lens. Note: The 250D is the stronger of the two diopters, allowing for closer focusing and higher magnification.
There are also "Macro Extension Tubes" that fit between lens and camera to make the lens able to focus closer with higher magnification. Some advantages of these are that they can be used with virtually any lens that can be fitted to the camera, as well as that they don't have any optics and are unlikely to "mess" with image quality. Canon only sells pricey tubes individually in two sizes: 12mm for $82 or 25mm for $140. While those are high quality and work well, there are more reasonably priced that work just as well. Among the best alternatives is the Kenko Macro Tube Set (12mm, 20mm and 36mm) that sells for $130. More plasticky and not quite as well made as the Canon or Kenko, there are also Vello, Fotodiox, Opteka and others that sell in sets of three (either 11, 21 and 21mm or 12, 20 and 36mm), typically for around $75. These are probably fine for use with relatively lightweight lenses and cameras like yours, but I wouldn't use them with heavy lenses and cameras or expect them to last a long time. Once again, don't be fooled into buying some really cheap sets of macro tubes... under $25 or even sometimes under $15. Those DO NOT have the electronic contacts for autofocus or control the lens aperture. High magnification photography often can be done with manual focus, but not being able to stop the lens down makes these tubes next to useless with modern lenses.
Other stuff you may want:
Lenses for other purposes such as an EF-S 55-250mm IS STM telephoto for more distant subjects or an EF-S 10-18mm IS STM wide angle for scenics and more. Note: AVOID the cheap Canon 75-300mm "III" lens, sometimes under $100 used. The 55-250mm IS STM is a much better lens in all respects.
I agree too that you will likely want a tripod shooting jewelry, among other things.
If the Sandisk memory card you have is "SD", "SDHC" or "SDXC" type, it will work in the camera. The SL1 takes 18MP images. So will probably be able to fit about 1000 compressed JPEG images on an 8GB memory card. If you instead take larger uncompressed RAW files, I'd expect that same size card to handle about 250 images. Depending upon what you have, you may want or need additional cards. I DO NOT recommend using one great big memory card. If it ever gets corrupted, damaged or lost you can lose an awful lot of images. Personally, I use fifteen smaller memory cards (16GB and 32GB, in three cameras). That way if anything happens to a card, I lose only a small portion of my work.
When you get the camera and first put the memory card into it, be sure to go into the camera's menu and "format" the memory card. THIS WILL ERASE any images already on the card, but is important to prepare it for use in the camera. In fact, I recommend you format the memory card in-camera after each download of images to your computer ("copy" them, don't "move" them... leave originals on the card and don't format it until you've confirmed the copies are good and backed up for safe-keeping!) Formatting a memory card in the camera doesn't actually erase the old images. It marks them as "okay to overwrite". They're still there and can be recovered, if needed, until you start saving new images to the card. It takes special software to be able to recover images once a card has been formatted.
One or more spare LP-E12 batteries: $50 ea. SL1 gets 400 to 800 shots per charge, approx.
You'll need software on your computer to work with images. If the camera doesn't include the original manufacturer-provided disk, which would be old versions now, download up-to-date software free directly from the Canon website. (I've recently been having trouble accessing the Canon USA website... don't know why. The same s'ware can be gotten from other English language Canon websites.)
Canon provides several software programs: Zoom Browser is used to organize images. Digital Photo Pro (DPP) is used to "develop" RAW files. Canon Utility is an applet used to set things on the camera and even take photos with it tethered to a computer (which may be handy for jewelry shots, using Live View and a larger screen for more exacting macro focusing, composition).
Canon software is okay. Even better might be a program like Adobe Elements 2019. It's more all-in-one (like combining Zoom Browser & DPP) and has built-in support for new users. You can use it in "beginner", "intermediate" or "expert" mode... your choice. Elements costs about $100 (one time, perpetual license, not a "subscription" like other Adobe software). If you plan to shoot video with your camera, you might also want Premiere Elements 2019, a separate program that costs $100. The two are sometimes bundled for some savings. Rest assured that the recent Windows version of Elements or Premiere Elements are compatible with your computer's operating system.
Above I mentioned doing photo backups. This is important, should a computer hard disk go bad. Some people use an external drive attached to their computer. Actually, they may use two or more to be able to and "rotate" them weekly, keeping a copy off-site somewhere for safe keeping. It's up to you, but I recommend setting up some sort of backup plan before too long. It's all too easy to lose a lot of images when a hard drive crashes. Another popular way to back up is saving images "to the cloud". That usually involves "renting" storage space from a someone providing that service.
You also may want to consider using a "tent" for jewelry photography. It's an enclosure you place the object inside, which serves to diffuse and control lighting. It can be really helpful with small objects. Here are some at one of the larger photo retailers: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ci=1410&fct=fct_tent-table-type_3030%7Cshooting-tents&N=4037060764&origSearch=tent
In addition, you will need some lighting gear. There are numerous types available, but for jewelry I'd consider some sort of LED or specialized fluorescent continuous lighting. This is easier to see what the effect will be, than with flash or strobes. In the past, continuous lighting such as halogen and tungsten were "hot lights". They got hot and could do damage or harm, just as the name implies. LEDs and fluorescent are "cool lights". Much more pleasant to work around! They also may use less power. Note: Standard fluorescent lights won't work. It cycles on/off very rapidly. So fast that we don't notice with our eyes. But our cameras sure "see" it! The result is a lot of underexposed images. (Some newer Canon cameras have "Anti-Flicker" especially to deal with fluorescent and similar. It detects the cycle and times the shutter release to the peak output of the lamps. I don't think the SL1 has this, the SL2 does. 7DII that I use have it and it works well.)
If one isn't included with the camera, you can download a free PDF from the Canon website. I also recommend a guide book specifically for the camera, such as: https://www.amazon.com/s?k=canon+SL1&i=stripbooks&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 Another, more general book that's very helpful is https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Exposure-Fourth-Photographs-Camera/dp/1607748509/ref=sr_1_1?crid=XVAWOM2ANIO8&keywords=understanding+exposure&qid=1555103495&s=books&sprefix=understanging+e%2Cstripbooks%2C216&sr=1-1
Finally, depending upon how "serious" you are about your photos, you may want to "calibrate" your computer monitor. The majority of computer monitors are way too bright for photo adjustment work and typically aren't that accurate rendering color. Further, monitors change brightness and color rendition over time, with use and as they age. Periodically using a calibration device is the solution. It measures the brightness of the monitor first to helps you adjust that. Then it runs a bunch of color tests to create a "monitor profile" that's used to adjust the monitor to render color as accurately as possible.
Without calibration, if you make a print from one of your images it will be too dark and the colors won't be "quite right". It looks good to you viewing it on your uncalibrated monitor. But the monitor is basically giving you wrong information and causing you to incorrectly adjust the image. A print won't be right. Or, if you display the image online, it won't look right to other people viewing it. You can try to adjust a monitor by eye, making a series of test prints, comparing to the monitor and adjusting it manually. A calibration device costs $100 and up, but will be cheaper over the long run by saving wasted ink and paper! I calibrate my monitor once a month.
Have fun!
Apr 12, 2019 18:19:53 #
Beenthere wrote:
If you're trying to connect directly, from camera, to your computer there may be issues.., maybe not? Otherwise just buy a "USB card reader" and transfer right into your computer, bypassing the camera.
I have a built in Card Reader in my Computer. Thank You!
Apr 12, 2019 18:31:39 #
Kaowdo wrote:
I have a built in Card Reader in my Computer. Thank You!
Alan Myers - amfoto1 - is another extraordinarily reliable and knowledgeable member here. His post above is a comprehensive treasure trove of accurate and useful information. You can trust his recommendations and observations.
You might find this thread really interesting and helpful:
Macro Equipment Set-Ups
Lots of photos of people's set-ups there.
Have we buried you with too much information yet?
Mike
Apr 12, 2019 19:07:35 #
Amfoto1...Allen! I am absolutely shocked that someone would take their time to give someone the priceless information you gave me. I honestly can't thank you enough. I copy and pasted all of it in a document file..so I will NEVER lose it. I am overwhelmed, and am honestly fighting back tears. Thank you sooooooo much. I really do appreciate it, and I appreciate you doing that for me. I noticed you are a Michigan Wedding Photographer? I am from Michigan too. Nice coincidence. I put you on my 'Buddy List'. I hope that's OK.
I'm still waiting for my Camera, and can hardly wait. I'm soooo excited!
I watched a youTube video on my TV last night on how to use the Camera. It went on forever...in fact I fell asleep before it was over. I'll watch it again when I get the Camera...in short interval's.
GOD Bless
Kay
I'm still waiting for my Camera, and can hardly wait. I'm soooo excited!
I watched a youTube video on my TV last night on how to use the Camera. It went on forever...in fact I fell asleep before it was over. I'll watch it again when I get the Camera...in short interval's.
GOD Bless
Kay
Apr 12, 2019 23:29:04 #
I ordered both books one by David Busch, and one by Bryan Peterson.
I have a photo tent that I purchased a couple years ago, when I tried to take my own photo's with a regular point n shoot. A few came out OK, but most did not...so I gave up on that. Lately..as my business has grown, I can see that I really need to have my own photo's...instead of using stock photo's that everyone else also use's. I learned back then that getting good photo's of jewelry is not easy...especially if they sparkle...so I decided to invest in a good camera...and go from there. I'm a senior citizen living on a fixed income...and have no extra money...except what I make in my online jewelry business. I'm at a point right now, that I feel I cannot afford to spend any more money...unless maybe a micro lens...and some LED lighting. I've learned a lot in the last week, but still have to go back and study all the posts and learn the Photography jargon...and what it means. Learning how to operate the camera...along with reading both books is going to keep me busy.
I'm glad to know I can ask questions here, and they will be answered.
Kay
I have a photo tent that I purchased a couple years ago, when I tried to take my own photo's with a regular point n shoot. A few came out OK, but most did not...so I gave up on that. Lately..as my business has grown, I can see that I really need to have my own photo's...instead of using stock photo's that everyone else also use's. I learned back then that getting good photo's of jewelry is not easy...especially if they sparkle...so I decided to invest in a good camera...and go from there. I'm a senior citizen living on a fixed income...and have no extra money...except what I make in my online jewelry business. I'm at a point right now, that I feel I cannot afford to spend any more money...unless maybe a micro lens...and some LED lighting. I've learned a lot in the last week, but still have to go back and study all the posts and learn the Photography jargon...and what it means. Learning how to operate the camera...along with reading both books is going to keep me busy.
I'm glad to know I can ask questions here, and they will be answered.
Kay
Apr 12, 2019 23:47:43 #
Kay: I use a Canon T3i and very happy with it. I also have 3 Canon 35mm cameras (slr's) The slr means single lens reflex. Looking into the viewfinder you see what your lens can see. The T3i has an ef mount which means that my other lenses from my Canon 35mm cameras will fit and work fine on my T31.
I have been involved in photography for many years and have used Canon cameras for decades. Hope that answers some of the basics for you.
I have been involved in photography for many years and have used Canon cameras for decades. Hope that answers some of the basics for you.
Apr 12, 2019 23:55:36 #
I have a 70 to 210 kit lens, a lens like yours, a 50 mm lens and a 70 to 300mm. It all depends on your needs. I attend to buy a 2x tele extender. This will allow me to double the length of any lens I use.
A good tripod and a decent flash are a must. You can check on Amazon.com for flashes. You don't have to break to bank and buy a Canon flash. As long as ts compatible for a Canon camera.
Look at youtube.com for Canon T3i clips. Lots of good videos for all of us.
A good tripod and a decent flash are a must. You can check on Amazon.com for flashes. You don't have to break to bank and buy a Canon flash. As long as ts compatible for a Canon camera.
Look at youtube.com for Canon T3i clips. Lots of good videos for all of us.
Apr 13, 2019 01:40:13 #
paps45251 wrote:
Kay: I use a Canon T3i and very happy with it. I also have 3 Canon 35mm cameras (slr's) The slr means single lens reflex. Looking into the viewfinder you see what your lens can see. The T3i has an ef mount which means that my other lenses from my Canon 35mm cameras will fit and work fine on my T31.
I have been involved in photography for many years and have used Canon cameras for decades. Hope that answers some of the basics for you.
I have been involved in photography for many years and have used Canon cameras for decades. Hope that answers some of the basics for you.
I had my mind set on a Canon T3i, but someone here messaged me that I should consider a Canon Rebel SL1, because it was a better camera. I looked it up, and found one in white...with a white lens..and I loved it...so that's what I bought. Plus it was a little smaller, and I have smaller hands.
Apr 13, 2019 06:08:59 #
You don't need an expensive camera to take good photos. You need to be patient with yourself. It sounds to me that you have the basics of a good hobby. As for learning jargon, who cares? So what if you call something a "thingofabob" or a "watda-ya-call-it?" My advice is to have fun. Post your photos here on Ugly Hedge Hog. Ask for critique and follow it. Your jewelry business with hit those fluffy things in the sky! HA HA!
Apr 13, 2019 14:16:32 #
Scruples wrote:
You don't need an expensive camera to take good photos. You need to be patient with yourself. It sounds to me that you have the basics of a good hobby. As for learning jargon, who cares? So what if you call something a "thingofabob" or a "watda-ya-call-it?" My advice is to have fun. Post your photos here on Ugly Hedge Hog. Ask for critique and follow it. Your jewelry business with hit those fluffy things in the sky! HA HA!
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.