Newb here: Exposure question with pictures included (Page 3): I think that markings on the filter would be meaningless. It’s a subjective approach, turn the filter until you see the...

gvarner Loc: Central Oregon Coast

I think that markings on the filter would be meaningless. It’s a subjective approach, turn the filter until you see the effect that you want, how big or how small you want for the effect. Any metering mode would make proper exposure through the filter.

jimorus

...

Once again, thanks for all your help!

-Megan[/quote]

A hundred years ago my wife and I were learning exposure by trial and error, on film, no immediate feedback. We shot a lot of windsurfers on frigid Lake Erie. The sunlight reflecting off the beach and the water completely fooled the meter in the cameras. We learned to set our exposure off the grass or the trees or even off the blue of the northern sky.

Use manual mode choose your aperture and point at some leafy trees or green grass in the same light as your subject. Set the exposure by adjusting the shutter speed or vice-versa if you are looking for motion blur

When we went to a balloon festival we used the blue of the northern sky as we were in a burned out field or on pavement.

The palm of my hand is 1 stop bright and I always carry it with me and can move it to the proper position every time

jim

catchlight.. Loc: Wisconsin USA- Halden Norway

MissMegan wrote:

Hello there UHH fam, br br First of all I would l... (show quote)

Quote:
Circular Polarizers contains a Linear Polarizer component that does the main work of polarization, as well as a second layer inside the filter called a Quarter Wave Plate, which “spins” the light after it goes through the linear layer and before it enters the camera lens. This prevents "cross polarization" with any reflective surfaces in the system.

I depend on the circular polarize lens in 100% of my daylight work. You need more time to understand the effect, and no you will not loose clarity.

Search youtube for a tutorial on the "how to use a polarizing filter".

khorinek

The best way to see what a Polarizing filter does is to point your lens toward a flat screen TV. As you turn the filter you will see the TV screen turn black. Practice this for a while until you learn the locations of your filter in relation to the lens, maybe apply a small white dot or marking at the darkest setting, that way you know where the most polarizing setting is. It looks like you had the filter at the darkest setting when taking the photos and that will reduce your exposure by up to 2 stops.

bbrown5154 Loc: Baltimore, MD

khorinek wrote:

The best way to see what a Polarizing filter does ... (show quote)

I don't want to sound like a jerk but how is that ever going to work outside in the sun? That "dot" is not going to be correct for the given lighting situation.
Or am I missing something?

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

MissMegan wrote:

Hello there UHH fam, br br First of all I would l... (show quote)

My guess is, underexposure is the main issue here. Understanding how your camera works, how exposure relates light level to lens aperture, exposure time, and sensitivity, and how to combine all that creatively, is going to take some time, reading, practice, and occasional advice.

Some basic, proven advice:

Bite your tongue (figuratively) and Read The *Fine* Manual. Yes, it’s like a day in the dental chair, but TOTALLY worth it.

Next, read the latest edition of Tony Northrup’s Stunning Digital Photography.

Consider reading Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson.

Polarizing a scene is done to taste. Adjust the filter and exposure and white balance until the effect looks right* on the LCD screen. *Right = close to how you want it to appear.

With experience, experimentation, and an understanding of how things work, you will master control over the camera. ALL the modes and features it has are there for good reasons. Understand those reasons and you will make great images!

srt101fan

MissMegan wrote:

Hello there UHH fam, br br First of all I would l... (show quote)

Hi Megan,
As usual on UHH, you are getting some very good and some not-so-good answers. For info on using polarizers I suggest you look at Steve Perry's video on his Backcountry gallery website:

https://backcountrygallery.com/how-to-use-a-polarizing-filter/

Steve gives great, clear advice on his website and in his books and videos. He also happens to be a UHH member!

Good luck with your learning voyage and happy shooting!

clickety

rgrenaderphoto wrote:

Polarizers only work on a 90 Deg angle to the Sun, so there compositions where it will, or won't be useful. And, it really makes a difference in the quality of a polarizer; I've ruined great lenses with crappy CPLs.

To clarify for the OP, your ‘crappy’ CPLs may have ruined the images from great lenses. A polarizer won’t ruin a lens or harm it in any way.

olemikey Loc: 6 mile creek, Spacecoast Florida

CHG_CANON wrote:

Use your histogram and high-light warnings to eval... (show quote)

Paul, the Highlight warnings, Histogram and Chimping would certainly be helpful to Megan. I'm sure there must be a good tutorial on "How to understand and use the Histogram" somewhere, or maybe one of us Hogs could come up with one. I know (when I first discovered the histogram), I had to search for info, but this was prior to discovering UHH, would have been quicker and easier in this arena).

khorinek

bbrown5154 wrote:

I don't want to sound like a jerk but how is that ever going to work outside in the sun? That "dot" is not going to be correct for the given lighting situation.
Or am I missing something?

It just gives you a reference point to start at. Once you become familiar with the filter you won't need the dot.

Angel Star Photography Loc: Tacoma, WA

MissMegan wrote:

Good tip, I will give that a shot next time. Seems more precise than just looking for a pleasing shade of blue in the sky.

Miss Megan,

First, welcome to the forum.

I recommend that you do not concern yourself with being precise when using a polarizer with your camera. It isn't a matter of precision but rather to what degree you wish to enhance the sky, the cloud detail, remove glare, saturate colors, etc., and most often it will be to what degree you find it pleasing. When I started using polarizers on my cameras, I had wished they had markings with angle of degrees but that was driven by my previous use of polarizers in a lab---analysis of crystalline structures through a microscope. Over time, I became less concerned with precision and more concerned with the effect, the quality, and what was important in the image.

Don't lock yourself into thinking that the polarizer is only good for the sky, cloud enhancement, and that you must only be at 90-degrees to the sun. In doing so, you will miss many other potentially great shots.
Srt101fan has already suggested taking a look at Steve Perry's video on the use of polarizers. I think you will find it will open the door to the many possibilities to which I have alluded.

As for courses or lessons, you start with a Google search on the specific topic you wish to study. There are many free videos out there. If you go to Adorama, www.adorama.com or B&H, www.bhphotovideo.com, you can find videos on various topics of photography. Check out your local library online courses. Many libraries offer Lynda.com as a resource. Some other resources I have often recommended are as follows:

Cambridge in Colour
https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/

https://digital-photography-school.com/digital-photography-tips-for-beginners/

An article on free courses...
https://petapixel.com/2014/07/03/best-free-online-photography-courses-tutorials/

Also, look up Phlearn on Youtube. Phlearn covers mostly post-processing.

Sincerely,

Charles
Angel Star Photography
www.angelstarphotography.com

Angel Star Photography Loc: Tacoma, WA

olemikey wrote:

Paul, the Highlight warnings, Histogram and Chimping would certainly be helpful to Megan. I'm sure there must be a good tutorial on "How to understand and use the Histogram" somewhere, or maybe one of us Hogs could come up with one. I know (when I first discovered the histogram), I had to search for info, but this was prior to discovering UHH, would have been quicker and easier in this arena).

Here are a few good ones covering the histogram:

https://youtu.be/XtdQz6piFpI

https://youtu.be/nqH7nZLHeVw

https://youtu.be/WvG1DycHY4Y

There are several with just using "histogram" in the YouTube search.

no12mo

Why not make original photos available? Even a JPG would be helpful

Anhanga Brasil Loc: Cabo Frio - Brazil

PHRubin wrote:

You were in Shutter Priority with a speed of 1/2500 sec. and an ISO of 100. There is no aperture you could have used with that combination that would have made a proper exposure. It had to be under exposed.
A longer speed would have been appropriate. Since you were at 55mm focal length, a speed of 1/(focal length*crop factor) =1/(55*1.6)= or 1/88 or faster should be enough to stop any action. I probably would have used 1/100 or 1/200 sec.

khorinek

I agree with PHRubin. In the photography world, no "rules" are absolute, except this one, shutter speed should equal or exceed focal length on your lens, for example, if shooting with a 70-200 lens, your shutter speed should be 1/200 or greater, a 24-70 lens would use a shutter speed of at least 1/80, and so on. This "rule of thumb" is the only one I firmly believe in. When shooting moving subjects, you can adjust your shutter speed to capture the movement but when shooting stills, the shutter speed should match or exceed your focal length, this will result in sharper images for you.