CHG_CANON wrote:
If an image has been processed by an Adobe tool, much of the propriety vendor-specific data will be removed. It's always better to make an UHH attachment of the JPEG straight from the camera, particularly when trouble-shooting exposure and / or focus issues. Then, for Canon bodies, one can use the Canon DPP software to analyze all the EOS-specific details, including the locations of the active AF points.
If you do some google searches of EXIFTOOL.exe, this command tool can be used to dump all of the available EXIF values to a text file. The command would be:
EXIFTOOL.exe <jpeg-filename> -list -EXIF:All -sort > <text-file-name>
You can then open the <text-file-name> in a text editor like Notepad and scroll through the values. I did an analysis prior that shows about 300 values from an EOS body will be removed by Adobe when the JPEG file is exported from Lightroom. Most of these 300 are of little use to the general public, but the LR-version can no longer be used in DPP to view details of the exposure and AF points.
If an image has been processed by an Adobe tool, m... (
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Thanks for the info, CHG_CANON. I'm still learning the ropes here.
Re: metadata. In Photoshop elements the metadata can be shown in long or short versions, not sure if it does in Lightroom also. On the information panel for each image, click arrow next to metadata, when up there are two buttons to the right of the pane title, the one with two dashed lines will show the short version. Click on the one with 3 to get the expanded version. Which ever version you choose will stay effective until changed no matter which image you are looking at.
Thanks, hassighedgehog, I basically use Lightroom and it doesn't give much metadata.
Hi Meg, welcome to the Hog.
The Polarizer is probably the main reason many of us actually bought a SLR in the first place. You get to see the degree of polarizing affect--either elimination of reflections or turning the blue sky bluer or eliminating haze through the lens in the viewfinder--just like you do in your T6. The maximum polarization occurs when both the filter is turned to the max AND the lens is pointed to 90 degrees away from the sun. It works in a full circle. So you've got two ways of controlling the amount of the effect.
A rule of thumb, in its truest sense, is to point your thumb directly at the Sun, while holding your fist like a pistol. Then your index finger will point in the direction of maximum polarization. This will allow you to move around for the best angle for your needs. Tip: Usually the best images aren't those using the maximum effect of anything. Sometimes that's the best, but usually a slight variance turns out to look better. I suggest shooting a few exposures with more and less polarization for each scene your compose. The the real secret to photography, YOU got to pick the best! Also, one of those exposure may turn out to be easier to Post Process in Lightroom than one of the others. Don't be shy, make extra exposure to take advantage of the control your camera and this filter gives you.
The other comments here are very good and from your responses you seem to "get it." The most important one is lenses like your 18-55 which usually come in a kit with a camera, aren't the best lenses one can use. HOWEVER, every lens has a sweet spot. And even an inexpensive one, and yours is a pretty decent one at that, will produce good images when they are used with apertures a few stops away from the extreme widest/smallest (f4.5 or f22) the numbers go opposite from the intuitive thought of big/small. That means for your lens, and each copy is slightly different from others, your sharpest aperture will live in the neighborhood of f6.5 to f9 or 10 or 11. Google "finding my lens sweet spot" and there are ways to easily test to find out what's best for you.
You've got good equipment to start on and keep shooting and learning. Composition tip: Try moving your subject (the boy) a little to the right or the left (about one third of the way toward either edge) to see how that might make the image more interesting. Google "rule of thirds for photography composition."
Have fun!
C
SuperflyTNT wrote:
I was about to suggest you spend the $20 and get this book, but I see PHRubin beat me to it so I second this suggestion.
If you are lucky, you might not have to spend $20 if your local library has it, or something close to it.
burkphoto wrote:
You can... Many are available for Windows. Right-clicking on a file in Windows Explorer may allow you to view metadata as ‘properties’.
Actually, right click, -> Properties -> details
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