The ILIS vs. IBIS Wars ... which is a better implementation, and for which applications? (Page 6): Well, Chris T, I assume your conclusion is not based on your actually ever visiting...

PierreD

Chris T wrote:

EXACTLY, USER ID … that 7.5 stops was probably measured in Fairbanks, Alaska …

Go to the North Pole, or Antarctica … and now you're looking at 9-11 stops!!!!

Only thing is … at either of those places, your lenses are likely to freeze up …

So, now … you've gone FULL CIRCLE (Arctic)

Well, Chris T, I assume your conclusion is not based on your actually ever visiting Alaska. I lived in Fairbanks for 11 years and can assure you that you can use your lenses for several months of the year without worrying that they might freeze. Just sayin'...

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

kymarto wrote:

ILIS is clearly superior in longer lenses to IBIS.

Yes, of course it is, Toby … particularly, when working with a 150-600, or longer …

But - with things UP to 150-200 … I think you're better off with IBIS, rather than ILIS …

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

PierreD wrote:

Well, Chris T, I assume your conclusion is not based on your actually ever visiting Alaska. I lived in Fairbanks for 11 years and can assure you that you can use your lenses for several months of the year without worrying that they might freeze. Just sayin'...

Pierre .. I mentioned the measurement of 7.5 stops by Olympus - was probably done in Fairbanks, AK …

I then went on to say - the following:

"Go to the North Pole, or Antarctica … and now you're looking at 9-11 stops!!!!

Only thing is … at either of those places, your lenses are likely to freeze up …"

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

Cdouthitt wrote:

Technically it's better to have them working together...if your camera supports it. No way at this point would I give up my EM1ii IBIS.

And why should you, C? … You have the best of BOTH worlds, when using OIS Lenses …

er … how many are there, now … three, is it?

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

burkphoto wrote:

The attached .PDF file makes the point pretty thoroughly...

Warning: The easily offended should not open the file.

Very interesting, Bill … can't honestly see what it's got to do with this thread, though - which asks -

"The ILIS vs. IBIS Wars ... which is a better implementation, and for which applications?"

To which - not a soul, yet - has completely answered - I refer, of course, to the last part - which states - which applications? ... I don't believe any manual can tell you that, as manual writers, have NO IDEA for what subject matter you bought your camera, and had intended to shoot. Hence, this post ....

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

PierreD wrote:

There really is no downside (that I know of) to using IBIS, ILIS, or both in combination, although as others already pointed out, IBIS can be more effective than ILIS (or the other way around) depending on the lens type (short vs. telephoto).

Manufacturers advise to turn off the IS when using a tripod for best results. This is all I can think of.

Not only - turning OFF OS, when using a tripod, Pierre - but, ALSO - turning it off when using it with ANY camera using IBIS - which would include ALL Pentax models, most all Sony models, all Olympus models, and many Panasonic Lumix models, as well (although, Panny indicates Dual ILIS on many combinations, but, I think that only applies to Panny Lenses) so, the Net result is - one cannot use BOTH - with those lenses which specify in their leaflets, to turn OS OFF!!!

PierreD

Chris T wrote:

Pierre .. I mentioned the measurement of 7.5 stops by Olympus - was probably done in Fairbanks, AK …

I then went on to say - the following:

"Go to the North Pole, or Antarctica … and now you're looking at 9-11 stops!!!!

Only thing is … at either of those places, your lenses are likely to freeze up …"

Got it... You are right and thanks for correcting me on this. 'course, the way things are going with global climate warming, this might be a moot point in the not so distant future

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

PierreD wrote:

Got it... You are right and thanks for correcting me on this. 'course, the way things are going with global climate warming, this might be a moot point in the not so distant future

You see, at the Equator, Pierre … because of the Earth's axis's effect on the gyro sensor in the E-M1X - you are likely not to save any stops of stabilization at all - or, get only one or two - instead of the 5.5 stops Oly claims. Since it's so much colder at either Pole, and because the stabilization effect becomes greater as you go further north - this is why I picked on Fairbanks - as it's NearER the North Pole - and probably could produce the 7.5 stops Oly has claimed for the E-M1X. But, go right UP there to - say - beyond Point Barrow and Ellesmere Island, or down to Amundsen-Scott - where the poles actually are - where the effect on the gyro becomes nil, or next to nil - the stops will probably - run off the clock - perhaps, as much as 9-11 ….

And, no matter how much Global Warming seems to effect the climate overall, I doubt it will eventually melt the ice-caps - at EITHER end of the earth. However, Greenland DOES seem to be shrinking, some!!!

PierreD

wdross wrote:

Also, the equivalent angle of view comparison is as follows:

Canon EF 600 f4 IS mrIII = $13000
Olympus 300 f4 Pro IS = $2500

And and we could discuss the smaller size and lighter weight (easily handholdable at under three pounds without the tripod mount) of the Olympus. Image Resource's comment was that they knew the released Olympus 300 was going to be sharp, but they didn't know that it was going to be that sharp. It is a truly incredible lens worth every penny.

Gotta agree with U, WD. I've been using the OLY 300 mm f4 for a few months and it really is a stunning lens!

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Chris T wrote:

Very interesting, Bill … can't honestly see what i... (show quote)

Essentially, I like the idea of Dual IS better than any other scheme, because it gives you the best of both worlds, and you don't have to think about it.

You DO have to read the manual to understand how and when to use it, and you DO have to test it to determine what YOUR limits are, since every human is different and there is significant human interaction with a hand-held camera.

I know from experience that I can hand-hold about 1/8 second reliably with just OIS in my lenses, up to 35mm (70mm full frame equivalent field of view on my GH4). I've found that using the electronic shutter in silent mode works best, because there is no mechanical shutter vibration to affect stability. At 100mm, that is down to 1/30.

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

burkphoto wrote:

Essentially, I like the idea of Dual IS better tha... (show quote)

1/8th, huh, Bill? … I like to think I hold an APS-C DSLR steady at 1/20th, but you're dealing with MFT, which is smaller, and lighter - so, I guess that makes sense. Nice that you have the electronic shutter option in the GH4. But, you slow all that much down to 1/30th - with a 100mm lens, huh? Why do you think THAT is? … Which subjects are you usually shooting at 1/8th on a 35, and at 1/30th on a 100?

User ID

`

FWIW TWIMC I never turn off IS, IBIS,
ILIS, OIS, OSS, VC, or VR at any time,
ever. I am not into switching things off
and on. I am into consistent operation.

.

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

User ID wrote:

`

FWIW TWIMC I never turn off IS, IBIS,
ILIS, OIS, OSS, VC, or VR at any time,
ever. I am not into switching things off
and on. I am into consistent operation.

.

Good for YOU, USER ID … consistency is THE KEY - to making better pictures!!!

But, be sure to switch OFF the lights when you leave, eh? … You'll save energy - that way - k?

Hey, USER … got FOUR new posts up (most have been up over two hours) - but nobody's answered!!!!

burkphoto Loc: High Point, NC

Chris T wrote:

1/8th, huh, Bill? … I like to think I hold an APS-C DSLR steady at 1/20th, but you're dealing with MFT, which is smaller, and lighter - so, I guess that makes sense. Nice that you have the electronic shutter option in the GH4. But, you slow all that much down to 1/30th - with a 100mm lens, huh? Why do you think THAT is? … Which subjects are you usually shooting at 1/8th on a 35, and at 1/30th on a 100?

Still life, portraits, peak poses in theatre, conversations at wedding receptions... no real action, of course!

Chris T Loc: from England across the pond to New England

burkphoto wrote:

Still life, portraits, peak poses in theatre, conversations at wedding receptions... no real action, of course!

Explain "peak poses in theatre" Bill …