Haydon wrote:
The second image was shot at 1/80 of a second. The one above it was shot at 1/160....
Bingo! This is probably what you are seeing in the soft images. The light lost to the CPL filter is causing a slower shutter speed to be used. And either camera movement or subject movement... or a little of each... is causing some "softness" in the CPL images. Some slower shutter speeds are even susceptible to internal camera vibration from the mirror and/or shutter.
Hoya HD filters are pretty high quality. That being the case, all other things being equal I doubt you'd see much diff from the filter alone unless you look very, very closely.
However, ANY filter costs a little bit of resolution. That's inevitable whenever light has to cross additional air/glass boundaries... And it's more with a CPL because it uses multiple layers of glass and a polarizing "foil" sandwiched between them. Very high quality, multi-coated filters minimize this loss to the point it's usually not noticeable... but there's always some (compare the file sizes of two shots of the same subject... identical except one with a filter, the other without.... the filter shot file will always be a little smaller).
I disagree with an earlier suggestion that UV filters reduce reflections. They don't. (CPL reduce reflections.) On rare occasion a UV might slightly reduce a bluish haze in a scene... but they basically do nothing to improve a digital image and serve no purpose (okay... "protection" for some... as much as some thin piece of glass might be expected to give).
NO filter EVER "sharpens" an image. Under some lighting conditions it might increase contrast, which give the
impression of greater sharpness (but the same can be done in post-processing).
In fact, in some challenging lighting conditions a filter... ANY filter... and especially multi-layer filters like CPL... will increase overall veiling flare that reduces contrast and color saturation and add ghost flare artifacts or even "halos" around strong light sources and amplified chromatic aberration. Much of this is from the light "bouncing" back and forth between lens elements and the surfaces of the filter. Once again, multi-coatings can help minimize it, but they usually don't completely eliminate the flare caused by a filter. \
I am pretty sure it was "tongue in cheek", but I also disagree with...
Quote:
As you know from other posts here that any filter destroys IQ especially if it is clear.
Again from the many posts in this forum you should never put anything in front of your lens due to horrific image degradation.
So your only option according to the many posts here of a decent photo is to never ever use a filter of any kind on your lens. If you do according to numerous posts here your pictures will always suck and be worthless.
Like almost everything related to photography, it's all about weighing various pluses and minuses to find the right compromise for any given situation. There are times and places where the benefits of a filter easily out-weigh the negatives of using one. The "trick" is making the right choice at the right time. The "problem" is that people are lazy or forgetful.... Such as over-using filters needlessly. Most of the time "protection" isn't needed. But sometimes it is. There are also people who never use a lens hood, can't be bothered with them. Sure, sometimes you can't use a hood. But one makes sense to use most of the time, can actually provide better protection than some thin piece of glass ever could, and might even be needed to "protect" a filter!
And I can't agree that a CPL should never be used for portraiture. There are people who have "shiny" skin. Not necessarily "oily", just reflective and shiny. Eyeglasses are also another time that a CPL might be helpful.
But it doesn't always work... eyeglasses can be a real pain!
An old school "fix" was to temporarily remove the lenses from them and take the shots with just the frames. (Easily done with some eyeglasses... but not with others.)
It also might have helped to polarize your light sources. There are sheets of polarizing materials available for this purpose. (This can be standard polarization... not circular.)
Some years ago I shot a friend's party that was being held at a restaurant. Had to use flash due to the lighting conditions and capabilities of the cameras I was using at the time. One fun shot of a couple cute young ladies looked to be spoiled by a strong reflection from the lens of the eyeglasses one of them was wearing. Her right eye was almost completely obscured by the reflection. However, in Photoshop I was able to make a copy of her other eye, "flop" it and use that to carefully replace the lens with the strong reflection. I didn't have much experience doing this or much hope for success... but a little careful blending and it looked quite good. Enough for a moderate size print. The rest of the image was great, so it was worth the effort to save it (and really wasn't that hard to do).