Ugly Hedgehog - Photography Forum
Home Active Topics Newest Pictures Search Login Register
Main Photography Discussion
Teleconverter for Tamron 100-400 lens
Page <<first <prev 3 of 3
Dec 12, 2018 10:50:12   #
Grace98 Loc: Waterlooville, Hampshire - United Kingdom
 
Thanks. I've read a lot about teleconverters and they aren't ideal. However, in my case I might not have a choice if I want more reach. I had rented the Tamron 150-600 G2 for 3 days to try it out. Amazingly sharp lens but couldn't hand-hold it when extended to 500/600. After 3 days, my back and neck ached. It's too heavy for me..so had to opt for the 100-400 and lots of cropping if subject is far.
pshane wrote:
I was considering the same purchase, (Lens, and Converter), so contacted Tamron. -

They replied that "Some functionality would be lost by using a Teleconverter".

(I have an older Canon 60D, and will still purchase the Lens. - (Actually, a Tamron 18-400mm)

As this is a 'Crop Sensor', not a Full Frame camera, it multiplies the lenses by 1.6 times, so 400mm becomes a 600mm,

and I'll be Happy with that! - Maybe the same for you?

Reply
Dec 12, 2018 10:52:36   #
Grace98 Loc: Waterlooville, Hampshire - United Kingdom
 
Thanks...that is what I have been doing i.e. cropping but I go to nature reserves to shoot birds but sometimes they are too far and when you crop, they're not very good.
imagemeister wrote:
I do not have the lens(es) but I will tell you that an f6.3 lens will be an f9.5 lens with a 1.4X TC (1-stop). IF you have any AF, it will be POOR. It will be much better for you to maximize your image quality at 350-400mm and f8 and CROP - and if necessary - use well applied pixel enlargement software.

..

Reply
Dec 12, 2018 10:54:17   #
Grace98 Loc: Waterlooville, Hampshire - United Kingdom
 
Thank you. I was reading some reviews and somebody said that Kenko are as good as Tamron and cheaper. They certainly are cheaper in the UK.
jwoj69 wrote:
Simple solution Kenko 2x teleconverter. I just got one for my 150-500mm Tamron and it works very well.

Reply
 
 
Dec 12, 2018 10:57:13   #
Grace98 Loc: Waterlooville, Hampshire - United Kingdom
 
Thanks. If I go for a teleconverter I will get the 1.4..560 is good enough for me.
Prime lenses are sharper than zoom and that is why they are so expensive. They're also bigger than me and very heavy!!
Bipod wrote:
TC-X14 Tamron 1.4x Tele Converter -- 6 elements in 3 groups
TC-X20 Tamron 2.0x Tele Converter -- 9 elements in 5 groups

Telephoto lenses can be excellent performers -- but adding a bunch more glass can't help
the image quality--especially on a zoom.

Hard to say which teleconverter is optically better, but the 2.0x is more expensive.
So if 560 mm is long enough for your needs, the 1.4x might be a better buy. I suppose
whether or not the imageis good enough depends on what you plan to do with it.

It's too bad that 500 mm prime telephotos are so expensive--they should be cheaper than
zooms, since they have fewer elements and are much easier to design. But the only people
who buy them are people who really need them--and it's not as if Nikon's prices were set
by supply and demand.

Tamron's 500 mm prime is a mirror lens, and Sigma doesn't make one for the Nikon
DX. Sigma's 500mm f/4 DG OS HSM telephoto for Nikon F one is over $6000---
cheaper than Nikon, but still pricey.
TC-X14 Tamron 1.4x Tele Converter -- 6 elements i... (show quote)

Reply
Dec 12, 2018 10:58:26   #
Grace98 Loc: Waterlooville, Hampshire - United Kingdom
 
Thank you...
Gene51 wrote:
This is not accurate - you can get 1.4x, 1.7x and 2x. And by far, the most popular choice is the 1.4, because it only loses 1 stop of light and typically has the least impact on image quality (about 5% loss), and still allows lenses that it is designed for - fast telepohotos, and some specific zooms like the 70-200 and the 200-400 to use autofocus with minimal impact. Though you can put a TC on a lens that is F6.3 at the longest focal length, everything goes to pot - focus acquisistion, tracking, manual focusing (viewfinder is too dark, lenses are not built for manual focus these days), and the fact that most long zooms that have a max aperture of F6.3 are often softest at the long end, makes putting a TC on one a bad idea.
This is not accurate - you can get 1.4x, 1.7x and ... (show quote)

Reply
Dec 14, 2018 22:06:36   #
Bipod
 
Gene51 wrote:
This is not accurate - you can get 1.4x, 1.7x and 2x. And by far, the most popular choice is the 1.4, because it only loses 1 stop of light and typically has the least impact on image quality (about 5% loss), and still allows lenses that it is designed for - fast telepohotos, and some specific zooms like the 70-200 and the 200-400 to use autofocus with minimal impact. Though you can put a TC on a lens that is F6.3 at the longest focal length, everything goes to pot - focus acquisistion, tracking, manual focusing (viewfinder is too dark, lenses are not built for manual focus these days), and the fact that most long zooms that have a max aperture of F6.3 are often softest at the long end, makes putting a TC on one a bad idea.
This is not accurate - you can get 1.4x, 1.7x and ... (show quote)

The information I quoted came from the Tamon site. It only lists the 1.4x and 2.0x TCs for this lens.
I have no idea why.

I agree that putting a TC on a slow zoom will make it very slow. But zooms are slow and soft themselves compared to primes.
A prime telephoto is the sharpest lens in anybody's catalog (e.g., the Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS II USM). Some soft and slow
is OK as long as it is also expensive and heavily marketed?

"Lenses are not built for manual focusing these days" --- so I guess AF is now infallible
and precise? Or do you restrict your photography to situations where AF works?

Maybe we should all pin large focus targets to our subjects...

Reply
Dec 14, 2018 23:14:41   #
robertjerl Loc: Corona, California
 
Bipod wrote:
The information I quoted came from the Tamon site. It only lists the 1.4x and 2.0x TCs for this lens.
I have no idea why.

I agree that putting a TC on a slow zoom will make it very slow. But zooms are slow and soft themselves compared to primes.
A prime telephoto is the sharpest lens in anybody's catalog (e.g., the Canon EF 500mm f/4L IS II USM). Some soft and slow
is OK as long as it is also expensive and heavily marketed?

"Lenses are not built for manual focusing these days" --- so I guess AF is now infallible
and precise? Or do you restrict your photography to situations where AF works?

Maybe we should all pin large focus targets to our subjects...
The information I quoted came from the Tamon site.... (show quote)


Tamron, Kenko, Canon etc only make 1.4x and 2.0x - Nikon makes a 1.7x that works on a limited number of lenses.

It isn't the lenses that aren't built for Manual Focus, it is the cameras, I had 35mm and 120s that had split screen or even checkerboard focus screens for manual focus. Trying to MF on most DSLRs is a pain unless you have perfect eye sight and work under a hood using the rear screen.

Reply
 
 
Dec 14, 2018 23:32:27   #
imagemeister Loc: mid east Florida
 
robertjerl wrote:
Tamron, Kenko, Canon etc only make 1.4x and 2.0x - Nikon makes a 1.7x that works on a limited number of lenses.

It isn't the lenses that aren't built for Manual Focus, it is the cameras, I had 35mm and 120s that had split screen or even checkerboard focus screens for manual focus. Trying to MF on most DSLRs is a pain unless you have perfect eye sight and work under a hood using the rear screen.


It is also the lenses - whose focus speed is way too high and undampened....and the focus collar can be very non-ergonmically placed.

Reply
Dec 15, 2018 19:25:43   #
Bipod
 
robertjerl wrote:
Tamron, Kenko, Canon etc only make 1.4x and 2.0x - Nikon makes a 1.7x that works on a limited number of lenses.

It isn't the lenses that aren't built for Manual Focus, it is the cameras, I had 35mm and 120s that had split screen or even checkerboard focus screens for manual focus. Trying to MF on most DSLRs is a pain unless you have perfect eye sight and work under a hood using the rear screen.

Good point.

It's a shame that camera manufactures removed the manual focusing aids
from DSLR viewfinders. How are you supposed to check on AF?
And if AF failed, how are you suppoed to manual focus accurately?

Magnify means you have to hunt around in the image for local contrast:
e,g, a sharp edge. Slow and frustrating.

It could all be wonderful: the camera knows when conditions are bad for AF--
it could warn you by turning on a light in the viewfinder. Then you could
use focusing aids to check that AF worked. But that would add a couple
parts bill-of-materials, and cost-cutting is king.

Result: you gotta trust AF, and don't find out there was a problem until you
get home and blow up the image: dang, it's out of focus!

Reply
Page <<first <prev 3 of 3
If you want to reply, then register here. Registration is free and your account is created instantly, so you can post right away.
Main Photography Discussion
UglyHedgehog.com - Forum
Copyright 2011-2024 Ugly Hedgehog, Inc.