Light meters
Nov 5, 2018 23:25:56 #
No one has mentioned the world's worst light meter: a camera! While the light meter
on cameras work well enough for their intended purpose, they were never intended
to do all the jobs a light meter can do. And providing you with accurate numerical
EV readings isn't a top priority for camera designers.
First, it won't do incident light readings. Simulating one by taking a reading off an 18% grey
car is tricky to do (hard to fram just the card without standing in the light) and inaccurate
(Even Kodak advises adding half a stop of exposure to one calculated off a Kodak
18% grey card.)
Second, cameras that do TTL metering incorporate any filters attached to the lens into the
reading. That's great for shooting that camera with that filter, but horrible if you are using
the camera as a light meter and forget there is a PL or ND filter attached to the lens. And
nothing in the viewfinder warns you.
Third, cameras's are the world's worst spot meters--bar none! The size of the circle
measured depends on the focal length of the lens that is mounted. And if you have
a zoom mounted, it depends on the focal setting.
But even if the 2% circle really is a 2% angle of view, there is probably so much flare
in the lens that the actual sensitivity is probably more like 10%. Did you ever see a
spotmeter with a big lens on it? Or a zoom? No, and you never will. Because it would
ruin the performance.
Fourth, on mirroless and other designs that use the sensor for metering, the color response
curve may depend on the white balance.
Finally, if one uses two different camera, say a Nikon or Canon and a Pentax, the meters
are calibrated differently, and will give different EV readings. Light meters have the
same problem---but you can stick to one and use it will all your cameras.
on cameras work well enough for their intended purpose, they were never intended
to do all the jobs a light meter can do. And providing you with accurate numerical
EV readings isn't a top priority for camera designers.
First, it won't do incident light readings. Simulating one by taking a reading off an 18% grey
car is tricky to do (hard to fram just the card without standing in the light) and inaccurate
(Even Kodak advises adding half a stop of exposure to one calculated off a Kodak
18% grey card.)
Second, cameras that do TTL metering incorporate any filters attached to the lens into the
reading. That's great for shooting that camera with that filter, but horrible if you are using
the camera as a light meter and forget there is a PL or ND filter attached to the lens. And
nothing in the viewfinder warns you.
Third, cameras's are the world's worst spot meters--bar none! The size of the circle
measured depends on the focal length of the lens that is mounted. And if you have
a zoom mounted, it depends on the focal setting.
But even if the 2% circle really is a 2% angle of view, there is probably so much flare
in the lens that the actual sensitivity is probably more like 10%. Did you ever see a
spotmeter with a big lens on it? Or a zoom? No, and you never will. Because it would
ruin the performance.
Fourth, on mirroless and other designs that use the sensor for metering, the color response
curve may depend on the white balance.
Finally, if one uses two different camera, say a Nikon or Canon and a Pentax, the meters
are calibrated differently, and will give different EV readings. Light meters have the
same problem---but you can stick to one and use it will all your cameras.
Nov 6, 2018 00:37:17 #
Nov 6, 2018 06:06:36 #
I had a Sekonic 758 that I got on eBay in excellent condition. When the 858 came out I sold the 758 and upgraded for about $200. The 858 is an amazing meter and includes cinematic capabilities my 758 didn't have, I didn't have the 758 cine version. It also has great new features too such as flash duration measurement. The 858 only has 4 buttons and is easy to use with the touch screen controls. It is not inexpensive but if you have the funds it is an awesome meter. You can add the optional radio module if you want too. You can download the manual and see what it does...before you buy anything.
rdubreuil wrote:
I guess it depends on your budget and what feature... (show quote)
Nov 6, 2018 06:49:06 #
Suggest you look on eBay for a good used digital meter in working order. I purchased a Sekonic Multimaster L-408 in perfect condition for $120. It measures reflected, incident, flash and has 'cine' mode...came with soft leather case and lanyard. It is accurate and intuitive.
Nov 6, 2018 06:53:19 #
My first choice was an S.E.I. Photometer. After purchasing a Sekonic L-758DR and finding a means of translating the EV values to ft-candles, that meter has become more used than the S.E.I.
I believe the 758 has been discontinued but replaced by an upgraded version.
--Bob
I believe the 758 has been discontinued but replaced by an upgraded version.
--Bob
dougbev3 wrote:
I am looking to purchase a light meter. I see the price range goes from $20 - $600. Looking for help as to what , if any, that you use and why you choose what you did. Thank you
Nov 6, 2018 07:59:38 #
Actually light meters are ones like these Konica Minolta.
https://sensing.konicaminolta.us/applications/light-measurement/
The others are exposure meters.
https://sensing.konicaminolta.us/applications/light-measurement/
The others are exposure meters.
Nov 6, 2018 08:11:36 #
dougbev3 wrote:
I am looking to purchase a light meter. I see the price range goes from $20 - $600. Looking for help as to what , if any, that you use and why you choose what you did. Thank you
I own a Minolta Spotmeter F and a Gossen Luna-Six (European Gossen Luna-Pro). The Minolta is also a spot flash meter. Seeing as I think Zone System I want (Spot) Reluctance Meters. Incident are popular as flash meters or other studio meters or for cine use.
Nov 6, 2018 08:14:47 #
Cameras today have very sophisticated exposure meters. I rely entirely for my exposures on my in camera meters except when using flash. For flash an incident exposure meter with that capability is preferable.
An incident exposure meter gives a correct exposure although it has limitations. It means to me another piece of gear I have to carry. I do not know of any hand held exposure meter than can act as a matrix metering if matrix metering is what you use.
In camera spot metering is very accurate for the experienced shooter. Spot meters like the one made by Pentax (I do not know if still available) is super accurate for color and for b&w photography.
As I said, my in camera meters are very good and I seldom have to go to anything else when I want a correct exposure.
An incident exposure meter gives a correct exposure although it has limitations. It means to me another piece of gear I have to carry. I do not know of any hand held exposure meter than can act as a matrix metering if matrix metering is what you use.
In camera spot metering is very accurate for the experienced shooter. Spot meters like the one made by Pentax (I do not know if still available) is super accurate for color and for b&w photography.
As I said, my in camera meters are very good and I seldom have to go to anything else when I want a correct exposure.
Nov 6, 2018 08:15:25 #
BebuLamar wrote:
Actually light meters are ones like these Konica Minolta.
https://sensing.konicaminolta.us/applications/light-measurement/
The others are exposure meters.
https://sensing.konicaminolta.us/applications/light-measurement/
The others are exposure meters.
That is true enough. Most of us use the incorrect term light meter when we mean photographic exposure meter. "Real" light or illumination meters are used mainly for engineering and calibration.
Nov 6, 2018 09:07:37 #
lamiaceae wrote:
That is true enough. Most of us use the incorrect term light meter when we mean photographic exposure meter. "Real" light or illumination meters are used mainly for engineering and calibration.
Well, now there are two of you who don't call a light meter a light meter. That's OK. A rose called by ....
For most of the rest of us:
A light meter is a device used to measure the amount of light. In photography, a light meter is often used to determine the proper exposure for a photograph.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Light_meter
A meter can't read exposure. It can record the amount of light and give us the output in terms photographers should understand.
---
Nov 6, 2018 09:22:24 #
Most meters can also take an exposure and give equivalent exposures instantly by changing any of the 3 exposure parameters. This can be useful for those who have not committed the parameters to their memory in terms of stops, 1/2 or 1/3 stops...
Nov 6, 2018 09:36:15 #
StanMac
Loc: Tennessee
I acquired an almost new Gossen Luna Pro SBC meter and case off the auction site for a Buy-It-Now bargain price way less than C Note. It uses a readily available 9v battery and is simple to use. It also has a handy Zone scale on the dial. It may be a bit of a handful for some folks, I don’t think the size is a problem (about the size of two stacked decks of cards).
Stan
Stan
Nov 6, 2018 09:43:30 #
Bill_de wrote:
Well, now there are two of you who don't call a li... (show quote)
Most people nowaday when buy new meter would choose Sekonic. And if you buy Sekonic do you buy one of their exposure meters???? Or their Illuminomter?
https://www.sekonic.com/united-states/products/all/overview.aspx
Nov 6, 2018 09:48:43 #
it all depend on how fancy you want to get , a basic Gossen pilot will give you basic light readings , around $ 50 .from there you can go crasy .
Nov 6, 2018 09:54:42 #
Actually I don't use my meters for determining exposure any more except once in a while when I shoot film. I don't need the meter when shooting digital whether it's ambient light or flash or both at the same time. I use the camera meter when I use A mode because there is no other way but when I am on manual I don't even use the camera meter.
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