Getting sharper birding Images (Page 2): If it is like the Tamron 150-600 which has a similar softening effect at full zoom, try pulling back just little from 500.

BlackRipleyDog

If it is like the Tamron 150-600 which has a similar softening effect at full zoom, try pulling back just little from 500.

jerryc41 Loc: Catskill Mts of NY

Some ideas -

https://digital-photography-school.com/tips-ensuring-get-sharp-photos-every-time/
https://www.wikihow.com/Focus-a-Camera
https://www.lightstalking.com/bite-size-tips-nail-focus-every-time/
http://www.lightstalking.com/these-steps-will-help-you-nail-focus-every-time/
http://www.thephoblographer.com/2015/03/28/how-to-get-the-best-autofocus-performance-from-your-camera/
http://www.reikan.co.uk/focalweb/index.php/why/about-focal/

AlfredU Loc: Mooresville, NC

You are already compromised with that lens wide open at full telephoto. The best thing you could do to get its best performance would be to put it on a tripod and use shutter speeds of 1/1250 or faster. With the 3300, high ISOs will be a problem. If you insist on shooting hand held you need to upgrade your equipment.

Robert Bailey Loc: Canada

Here is the dxomark.com result of the "sharpness" test on the Sigma 150-500 mounted on a Nikon D3300.
(Red is bad; Green is good.)

https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Sigma/Sigma-150-500mm-F5-63-APO-DG-OS-HSM-Nikon-mounted-on-Nikon-D3300---Measurements__928

As you can see, it is physically impossible to take a sharp photo with this lens- particularly in the range of 400 to 500 mm.
The overall score for the lens is 12 (more or less out of 50);
The "Sharpness" score is SIX (more or less out of 50).

If you want sharp photos at 500 mm you will have to buy a prime lens.

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

Robert Bailey wrote:

Here is the dxomark.com result of the "sharpn... (show quote)

One option would be to sell the 150-500 (I think you can get $450-$500 for it) and put the money toward something else. Staying with Sigma, the 100-400 C with the USB hub will run around $750. The 150-600 C (with USB hub) around $1,050. They work better and the customization for birding is a real advantage. Tamron has similar offerings with their Tap-In accessory.

camerapapi Loc: Miami, Fl.

If you are using 1/800 sec. with your lens unless there is subject movement and the camera is not in continues AF those images have to be sharp. There is always the possibility that perhaps the focus of the lens needs adjustment but keep in mind also that the majority of AF errors are operator's errors.
I have never had an issue with front or back focus with any of my Nikon lenses but obviously I cannot make any comments for those using independent lenses. If adjustment is needed I would not do it myself but that is just me. I would prefer a technician doing the adjustments for me.
In good light ISO 1600 should be practically free of noise.

crappiefever Loc: Central Pa

1/800 th ? I get sharp images handholding but I dont like to go below 1/2000 . Bit of noise I can deal with but a totaly out of focus soft shot I cant !

nmoore6 wrote:

Hi All, br br I've been working with the Sigma 15... (show quote)

NCMtnMan Loc: N. Fork New River, Ashe Co., NC

Have you considered a tripod or monopod with a gimbal head? Gives you more stability and still a lot of fluidity in camera motion to follow movements. Steve Perry just posted an interesting article on using a gimbal on a monopod https://backcountrygallery.com/.

SharpShooter Loc: NorCal

nmoore6 wrote:

Hi All, br br I've been working with the Sigma 15... (show quote)

Moore, in my experience, soft birds are almost always because you are NOT close enough.
Too many expect to much, especially from the less expensive lenses.
I suggest several things. Good light, low ISO, more mp, and GET CLOSURE.
There is no substitute for getting closer. Bird feather detail is the most difficult to get and overcropping will just destroy that detail. Good luck
SS

nmoore6

Thanks, I think that and shooting in really gloomy weather has been my biggest issue having to bump ISO up. I am going to keep at it and see if I can improve. I was looking at that website mentioned earlier in the thread showing graphical comparisons of sharpness with this lens, and it seems there is a pretty significant improvement when you attach it to the D610. Gimbal heads can also be found cheap so I may try that out as well. Going birding this weekend, hopefully going to get some good pics!

dsmeltz Loc: Philadelphia

SharpShooter wrote:

Moore, in my experience, soft birds are almost always because you are NOT close enough.
Too many expect to much, especially from the less expensive lenses.
I suggest several things. Good light, low ISO, more mp, and GET CLOSURE.
There is no substitute for getting closer. Bird feather detail is the most difficult to get and overcropping will just destroy that detail. Good luck
SS

I know you meant CLOSER but aren't we all trying to "GET CLOSURE" on something?

Robert Bailey Loc: Canada

As "nmoore6" says, the lens does score better when mounted on a Nikon D610 vs a D3300.
The overall score jumps from 12 to 16
and the sharpness score jumps from 6 to 10.

https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Sigma/Sigma-150-500mm-F5-63-APO-DG-OS-HSM-Nikon-mounted-on-Nikon-D610---Measurements__915

nmoore6

Robert Bailey wrote:

As "nmoore6" says, the lens does score better when mounted on a Nikon D610 vs a D3300.
The overall score jumps from 12 to 16
and the sharpness score jumps from 6 to 10.

https://www.dxomark.com/Lenses/Sigma/Sigma-150-500mm-F5-63-APO-DG-OS-HSM-Nikon-mounted-on-Nikon-D610---Measurements__915

Yeah, overall it seems like a better combo. I know it's not great, but better than before anyways.

jwn Loc: SOUTHEAST GEORGIA USA

crank up the shutter 1000-2500 for in flight. a little bit of exposure compensation if not on full manual.

davidb1879

As an experiment I would use a tripod. If the tripod images are sharper, that would suggest that the lens is functioning properly, and the culprit may be using the lens hand held. Hope this helps. Please post the results of your experiment. Davidb1879.